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Man every time I see these posts it scares me to death. I bought my truck last year with 168k. It was fairly well taken care of, but who knows if that front driveshaft was ever lubed? I've heard of guys that lube their driveshaft and then it fails a couple days later...

Looks like you can get a full replacement driveshaft for ~$250 from some places... cheap insurance? Or is it better to just have the cardan joint rebuilt on the stock one? I don't have any vibration, but no peace of mind either :)
Honestly, for me I'll just send mine off to get checked out and if it needs a rebuild, then I'm good. I know it needs to be balanced so that's at the top of the list.
 

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Diesel 4 Me!!
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So sorry to hear that. Mine just happen two weeks ago. Still crying about it



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Every time I see this happen I hear all the guys that told me a freespin kit was a wast of money ! Lol
 

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Every time I see this happen I hear all the guys that told me a freespin kit was a wast of money ! Lol
I think that kit just went way up on my priority list.
 
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Diesel 4 Me!!
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Keep in mind I have 300K on the clock. I think that 150K for the rebuild and make sure that the drive shaft is lube up. Should work.


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Keep in mind I have 300K on the clock. I think that 150K for the rebuild and make sure that the drive shaft is lube up. Should work.


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Good point. I'm at 215K and need to get the front shaft re-built. Free spin is just for extra security and what little mpg gain I might get.
 
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Red Rider
2022 RAM 5500 Tradesman Crew Cab & Chassis 4X4
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Keep in mind I have 300K on the clock. I think that 150K for the rebuild and make sure that the drive shaft is lube up.
Exactly. 360k on my 2018 RAM 4500 and no issues; front driveshaft is greased every 13.5k to 15k miles.
 

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Freespin kit means you won't have to grease that front driveshaft ever. And keeps your transfer case in one piece. But those who are good about maintenance and rebuild things as needed (like I do) can save the money on a freespin kit and spend it on parts and labor instead. My point is it's all a tradeoff, pick which one fits your needs and go with it.
 

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Exactly. 360k on my 2018 RAM 4500 and no issues; front driveshaft is greased every 13.5k to 15k miles.
I‘ve looked all around the front shaft for the lube point and have never found it. My 16 2500 had a port to stick in the grease needle
 

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Man every time I see these posts it scares me to death. I bought my truck last year with 168k. It was fairly well taken care of, but who knows if that front driveshaft was ever lubed? I've heard of guys that lube their driveshaft and then it fails a couple days later...

Looks like you can get a full replacement driveshaft for ~$250 from some places... cheap insurance? Or is it better to just have the cardan joint rebuilt on the stock one? I don't have any vibration, but no peace of mind either :)
would you happen to have a picture of your wiring harness under the drivers side i had a cardan joint failure on my 06 mega cab and i cant find the correct schematic anywhere online. I have a 06 laramie and it only has 173k on it and it destroyed so much under my truck it was horrible brake lines tranny line speed sensor maybe the OD housing on tranny fuel lines ripped out my wiring harness and twisted it up so im trying to figure out where my wires go with out frying something and adding insult to the already devastating damages im dealing with.
 

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After 3.42, you’d be amazed at how well 4.10s are for towing! I’ve had two other drws that had 4.10s and I DD both of them for about 9 years each but fuel prices weren’t what they are now. My 03 ctd 6 spd w/4.10s got 19.8 empty hiway and 18.3 city. My other drw w/4.10s was a 75 chevy c&c and I put a 455 olds in it and we won’t talk about that mpg!
You don’t tow very heavy so 3.73 might work good for you but then you need to decide if you only want to go 2 steps.
i like my 3.73s w/ stock ~31” towing 15k but I would also be very happy with 4.10s bcuz I tow so much.
my 12 had 34” on it when I first got it and the PO towed a 10k cargo trailer.
 

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wow the same thing happened to me two weeks ago and I have a 2007 Ram 2500 5.9 48re. But I lost the entire transfer case and all the tranny lines and wiring harness front drive shaft came through the floor. Crazyness
 

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Red Rider
2022 RAM 5500 Tradesman Crew Cab & Chassis 4X4
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That’s one reason I went to free spin hubs.
Greasing my front driveshaft on the 2018 RAM 4500 every 15k miles is much cheaper than buying spin free hubs......at least for me.
 

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Greasing my front driveshaft on the 2018 RAM 4500 every 15k miles is much cheaper than buying spin free hubs......at least for me.
I put a lot of miles on my truck in very remote locations. If I could grease my CV joint I would but the factory front shaft replaced under warranty (broke 2 within the week) & doesn’t have the grease hole.
The free spin has saved my butt several times.
Broke a front u joint 120miles from the closest town in the great white north. Unlocked the hubs, made sure not to get stuck & drove 900milea home for the repairs.
Another time 180 miles from home, the CV joint was starting to fail again. Unlocked the hubs drove to parts store & fixed that night. Back to work the following day.
How about a bearing failure on the side of the road. A lot easier to replace than the uni bearing design. I usually service 1X year in the spring. I change them out instead of repacking.
not much more that $100/side.
It sure is nice driving up a steep mountain grade in 2WL & save heating up the transmission. The tighter steering radius is also nice.
The thought of my front shaft failing then taking out 1/2 of the truck is just plain scary. Free spins are worth every penny & then some.
 

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ever heard of lockers, or free spin hubs?:sneaky: My transfer case is 20 yo, and I run 600 to 700 hp 1500+ ftlbs of torque through it every day, not one complaint.....
 

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I put a lot of miles on my truck in very remote locations. If I could grease my CV joint I would but the factory front shaft replaced under warranty (broke 2 within the week) & doesn’t have the grease hole.
The free spin has saved my butt several times.
Broke a front u joint 120miles from the closest town in the great white north. Unlocked the hubs, made sure not to get stuck & drove 900milea home for the repairs.
Another time 180 miles from home, the CV joint was starting to fail again. Unlocked the hubs drove to parts store & fixed that night. Back to work the following day.
How about a bearing failure on the side of the road. A lot easier to replace than the uni bearing design. I usually service 1X year in the spring. I change them out instead of repacking.
not much more that $100/side.
It sure is nice driving up a steep mountain grade in 2WL & save heating up the transmission. The tighter steering radius is also nice.
The thought of my front shaft failing then taking out 1/2 of the truck is just plain scary. Free spins are worth every penny & then some.
Not to mention the people that have had leg amputations from DS and TC failures.
 
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