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Hey guys have an 07 ram 2500 5.9 4wd megacab // the heat exchanger/ torque converter cooler for the trans circuit internally blew and now have a strawberry milkshake... The bad kind, lol. So after rebuilding the trans which i will do i quoted the cooler assembly at the dealer (at employee cost) and it comes out to 622.60 part number 68253200aa. What the heck! Are they made out of gold!, lol. So i am shopping around and see some aftermarkets all over google and ebay fro 30-200 dollar range as refurbished items. My question is does anyone have a good alternative or have had any experiences good or bad from these more affordable options on the aftermarket scene. Also i looked into the fleece by pass but it has you plug the cooler and just bypass the colling system part of the exchanger, also its too much for me as my truc, is stock and will not be upgrading it or racing in this thing at all, dont think its the right solution. Thank for any iput yall have out there. Also forgot mto mention its a 48re lol, kinda obvious i know but just wanted to be clear. Thanks again guys!
 

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Also forgot to mention this cooler is mounted to the side of the engine block just passed where the trans bell housing mounts to the engine on the passengers side.
 

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Why would you ever put another one of those in ? It killed your trans . Def a failure prone part .

a. If you don't tow , hot rod repeatedly or have a low stall converter , you don't need it .

b. Or go for the Misimoto ( sp ) big cooler up front , or perhaps a fan / cooler mounted up near the skid plate crossmember as several have . Some work and fab fit up but that's a good set up IMO.

Good luck sir
 

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Once that coolant gets in the transmission, it's over. The frictions start to delaminate. There is no way around it. A rebuild is in your future.

I 2nd Sparkey's reply. Do not put another one of those things on your truck. Look at my sig, that's how I addressed mine. The aux cooler has a 10" fan and moves 800cfm and the cooler is supposed to cool 67,000btu per hour. I have noticed that my engine temperature is higher now without the torque converter cooler, that tells me the the transmission was cooling the engine and the transmission certainly does not need anymore heat put into it.

Gil
 

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Once that coolant gets in the transmission, it's over. The frictions start to delaminate. There is no way around it. A rebuild is in your future.

I 2nd Sparkey's reply. Do not put another one of those things on your truck. Look at my sig, that's how I addressed mine. The aux cooler has a 10" fan and moves 800cfm and the cooler is supposed to cool 67,000btu per hour. I have noticed that my engine temperature is higher now without the torque converter cooler, that tells me the the transmission was cooling the engine and the transmission certainly does not need anymore heat put into it.

Gil
And here we have a solution , def some fab work but effective transmission fluid cooling and will not kill your auto trans with engine coolant .
 

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I'd also agree with NOT putting another one back in. I ran without one for a long time on just the front cooler and had no issues, no towing though. I ended up putting a derale cooler with a fan under the cab to act as a heat sink. Never did hook up the fan, never needed it. That fan switch though was on the output side of the cooler which dumped back into the trans.
 

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Once I’m able to install a modified valve body allowing lock up in all forward gears I’ll delete mine.
 

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It's all about that temp gauge. If you can keep your pan temps in check with just the aux cooler up front (unlikely if you're working it hard), you're good. If not, well you have some work to do and some money to spend.

The torque converter cooler (heat exchanger) that the factory used is very good at its job, but yes, there are some failures, so I understand why people sleep better knowing that it's not in the loop anymore. Believe me...I DO understand... But, if you're working it hard, in a hot environment, you'll likely end up fighting with temps at times without some significant additional cooling.

Here is a setup that I've used with excellent results:
 

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I'd also agree with NOT putting another one back in. I ran without one for a long time on just the front cooler and had no issues, no towing though. I ended up putting a derale cooler with a fan under the cab to act as a heat sink. Never did hook up the fan, never needed it. That fan switch though was on the output side of the cooler which dumped back into the trans.
That's how mine is configured.

Transmission-->OEM cooler in front of the radiator-->Derale 20709 spin on filter head with a 20 micron filter-->Derale 15970 67,000btu aux cooler with switch on the output side-->back into the transmission.

I also have a LED in the dash that turns on when the fan comes on and a switch that allows me to turn it on if I want to.

Gil
 

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Hey guys have an 07 ram 2500 5.9 4wd megacab // the heat exchanger/ torque converter cooler for the trans circuit internally blew and now have a strawberry milkshake... The bad kind, lol. So after rebuilding the trans which i will do i quoted the cooler assembly at the dealer (at employee cost) and it comes out to 622.60 part number 68253200aa. What the heck! Are they made out of gold!, lol. So i am shopping around and see some aftermarkets all over google and ebay fro 30-200 dollar range as refurbished items. My question is does anyone have a good alternative or have had any experiences good or bad from these more affordable options on the aftermarket scene. Also i looked into the fleece by pass but it has you plug the cooler and just bypass the colling system part of the exchanger, also its too much for me as my truc, is stock and will not be upgrading it or racing in this thing at all, dont think its the right solution. Thank for any iput yall have out there. Also forgot mto mention its a 48re lol, kinda obvious i know but just wanted to be clear. Thanks again guys!
If your only goal is to delete the heat exchanger there is no need for the Fleece bypass kit. My heat exchanger is still on the truck. I simply capped the ATF input and output ports with -8AN caps. The coolant still flows through the heat exchanger. Mine leaked internally, not externally, so that worked for me.

And many have said that these heat exchangers are fragile, and maybe they are, but mine wasn't. I could not loosen the ATF lines from the heat exchanger using wrenches. They were too tight and not enough room to get sufficient leverage. I broke off the lines at the nuts, then I used an impact wrench to take off the nuts. Just break the lines as near to flush with the nuts as you can to allow a socket to be used.

I used a 1/2" drive ratchet to install the -8AN caps.

Of course the above instructions are assuming that you are not going to be using the original hoses. And with coolant in them, you shouldn't. If you don't replace every component in the system, your new transmission may suffer the same fate as the original one. Just a little bit of water is all it takes to ruin a transmission.

I replaced all of the lines with -8AN hoses. I replaced the OEM cooler up front with a brand new Dorman replacement. The Dorman unit was about $200 and the -8AN hoses were around a $100, probably a little more. Then you'll have to cut the connectors off of your brand new Dorman cooler to attach a 1/2" hard line to -8AN adapter. Then you just go custom as you go, as you see your needs. It's not difficult at all, and worth every penny.

Gil
 

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@Gildo @Dynamic
How about some closeups of the mounting brackets you made up to hold that in place. I have one sitting on the bench I need to find time to instal. I have a couple ideas but Some other mounting ideas would be helpful also.
 

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@Gildo @Dynamic
How about some closeups of the mounting brackets you made up to hold that in place. I have one sitting on the bench I need to find time to instal. I have a couple ideas but Some other mounting ideas would be helpful also.
I'll see what I can do.
 

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Here is the bracket I used on this truck. It was made from 1" x 1/8" steel strap because that's what I had on hand. It is rock solid when bolted to the frame, and keeps everything above the level of the bottom of the frame rail.
 

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confused

I think I know the answer as to what we should do but I have to ask. me and a friend are debating that, as we live in texas, there would not be much of a temperature difference or cooling effectiveness difference from the aux cooler if installed on the return line or if we install it before the front cooler (taking place of the heat exchange/torque converter cooler). was wondering if y'all have debated this before or have some input or variables we have not accounted for. thanks again guys this has been a great help.
 
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