[New2dieselmech]

I just drained trans fluid and replaced both filters. I'm getting a yellow Engine Malfunction Indicator light, and my trans fluid temperature warning light. My owners manual says if that light is on, put the vehicle in neutral and let it run until the light goes off. But when I did that, it didn't go off, and in less than 5 minutes the trans fluid temperature had gone to the high 200's. Neither my owners manual or my Chelton's tell what the safe limits are, but I normally see my trans fluid temp way lower than that.
Can anybody tell me what number I shouldn't go above on this?
I'm looking through the forum at other posts, it seems like either I possibly didn't put the filter on tightly enough, or the thermostat isn't functioning correctly. I can go back and check/ reinstall the filter, and I can check by hand the temperature of the lines coming out (thanks TransEngineer for that info on another guys post!). But this book recommendation of running in neutral until the light turns off- how long and how hot can I let this get before I decide that didn't work? Or should I just skip that recommendation and go straight into reinstalling the filter and checking cooler lines?

 

[N of 60]

You have issues. Do not run it anymore. Did you use the new seal and remove the old one or not use the new one and leave the old one in for the filter with the snout? You drained how much fluid out? Put back in the same? Screw in filter secure but not over tight? OEM mopar parts used?

 

[New2dieselmech]

Thanks for your response! I didn't run it more; I parked it overnight at the place I was changing fluids at. I'm getting ready to go back there to try to address whatever's going on.
I drained all fluid, & removed both filters. The pan didn't have a gasket at all, someone had used permaglue or something singular. I cleaned both surfaces of the pan and trans completely with a putty knife, then a straight razor. The fluid that drained out wasn't measured since the facility has drain buckets that feed into a big barrel. Next time I will know to bring my own so that I know what volume drained out. I ppt the new fingers on tight, I thought, but didn't overtighten them. The instructions for the filter that is flat said to remove the previous gasket inside, put the new one in with a docket and hammer, then install the filter, but now, I'm seeing advice that I could have just left the other one in place. I started adding 4 quarts which is the minimum listed, kept rechecking fluid level, and went to 6 quarts. Then I ran the truck less than a block before it became apparent that I'm not done yet.

 

[N of 60]

Only six quarts total?

 

[N of 60]

You got a Malfunction light? What's the code?

 

[ofelas.5z]

Very valid observations.

I've seen off brand canister filters not seal properly, and lose pressure. Once, it was determined that one particular aftermarket filter simply did not have the volume of flow needed.

You have issues. Do not run it anymore. Did you use the new seal and remove the old one or not use the new one and leave the old one in for the filter with the snout? You drained how much fluid out? Put back in the same? Screw in filter secure but not over tight? OEM mopar parts used?

 

[Cacciatore]

Only six quarts total?

6qts is way low! Did you cycle the trans the trans through all the gears before moving? I'm thinking either a dropped filter or low on fluid. Your choice on sacrificing the fluid you already put in on checking for a dropped filter or adding more in hope your filters are fine.

 

[lukdiver]

6qts is way low! Did you cycle the trans the trans through all the gears before moving? I'm thinking either a dropped filter or low on fluid. Your choice on sacrificing the fluid you already put in on checking for a dropped filter or adding more in hope your filters are fine.

I ended up adding 8qts and 10oz. Definitely run thru gear shifts and add slowly. As others have said use good filters.

 

[TransEngineer]

Did you have the CEL, trans temp warning light, and "high 200s" trans temps BEFORE you changed the filters?

 

[New2dieselmech]

Hi, thanks for all of your responses! I drained the fluid again, & checked both filter installations. The screw in filter post had a section that was stripped. I turned the threaded post upside down and screwed the filter back in securely. The other filter I put back how it was because I couldn't see any issues with it. I had bought a pump that I hoped could drain the fluid faster and with less mess- my pan doesn't have a drain plug, so you have to tip it- but the pump didn't work at all. But the drain pan I bought enabled me to catch at least most of the fluid. I ended up using new fluid anyway, but I have the other now as well.
After filling up the fluids & putting the truck through its gears, I took it on a test run. The trans fluid temp was staying at a better range and my truck shifted much more smoothly than it had. I rechecked the fluid after the test drive and added another 1/2 quart, then rechecked after driving 20 minutes highway speed home, and the levels were fine. The temperature is at 86 upon starting up, and climbs to the 170's.
The truck still seems a little sticky between 3rd & 4th gears, as if waiting a fraction too long before it shifts up. I'll continue to monitor the temp and fluid today. So far, I've put in just under 7 quarts.

 

[New2dieselmech]

Hi, forgot to address your questions, Trans Engineer! I did not have the trans fluid temp warning prior to changing the filters, or the excessively high readings on the temp monitor. I was changing out my filters and fluids because I just got this truck, and it didn't have any records showing when trans service had been done. I was already changing my engine oil, so I thought I'd change trans fluids and fitters at the same time. But then, I made it worse temporarily....and now that is corrected, it seems. I hope!
How much to worry about the gestation between 3rd and 4th gear? It's not huge, but it's there. Maybe I am just worried that I bought a used truck with no warranty, and no experience owning a diesel or 4WD before?

 

[N of 60]

One more time, did you use the Mopar filter kit?
What exactly did you turn upside down that was stripped but reused?
The filter nipple?

 

[New2dieselmech]

N of 60, thanks for your response. I'm not sure what the correct name is of that item. I hope to source a service manual for my truck year, and you guys on here are really my lifeline on all the knowledge I don't possess, which is almost all of it. So the part I'm talking about is a vertical, completely threaded post that the screw on trans filter connects to.
The filter type is attached; the screw on one was from the same company.

 

[New2dieselmech]

These are the codes; they are several pictures from the auto craft shop on post, and OReily's... the pictures are not the best. I also had a C1219 but I was able to do the auto reset on that successfully. I am checking the transmission fluid after every trip in my truck, & the levels are fine. There's no fluid leak marks on my driveway, either overnight or throughout the day.

 

[N of 60]

These are the codes; they are several pictures from the auto craft shop on post, and OReily's... the pictures are not the best. I also had a C1219 but I was able to do the auto reset on that successfully. I am checking the transmission fluid after every trip in my truck, & the levels are fine. There's no fluid leak marks on my driveway, either overnight or throughout the day.

Get a genuine MOPAR filter Kit. Non OEM will cause issues. Confirm all your fluid levels are correct before driving.

 

[New2dieselmech]

Thanks for your response N of 60. I will try that.

 

[TransEngineer]

The spin-on filter's threaded snout should normally stay with the filter (not be left in the case). Tighten the spin-on filter BY HAND like you would a spin-on engine oil filter (1/2 to 3/4 turn after the gasket touches the case face). Do not overtighten it or you can crack that threaded plastic snout.

 

[New2dieselmech]

Thanks for your response, Trans Engineer. Should I replace that threaded post since it has an area where the threads are messed up? And if I do, what do I call it when I'm asking for that part?

 

[Jhenderson]

Several aftermarket companies make a steel nipple to replace the failure prone plastic one.

 

[New2dieselmech]

Thank you! That is great to know. I'm try sourcing that.