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Discussion Starter #1
Just picked up everything to do it this evening. I think I have a pretty good job on my hands now. :lol3::CRY:

I'll get it though, and post my progress as it unfolds. I don't think it will be too terribly hard. I'm starting tomorrow.

Everyone standby for all the questions that are yet to come!
 

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can't wait to hear the write up on this. good luck!
 

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Well it's coming along pretty well. I haven't got in a lot of time on it between work and the rain (I'm doing this outside on the ground).

One issue I've had thus far is my clutch pedal. It doesn't not want to push all the way down. It will go about halfway or so and won't go down any further. The slave side isn't hooked up yet; I don't know if that has anything to do with it or not.

Transmission is bolted up but not torqued. What are the torque specs for the tranny mounting bolts?

I'm going to buy my gear oil tomorrow. I know I need Mopar, but how many quarts will it take to fill the trans and t-case?

Thanks all
 

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Awesome! Thanks guys!!

Why is it no one can answer these SIMPLE damn questions? I know people know the torque specs and oil capacity. Are you just too damn lazy to type it out or what? I know I jump at the chance to help someone out if I know their problem or have some advice. Apparently not everyone is the same. :RANTIN::RANTIN:

Seems like 4 out of 5 of my posts go unanswered anymore. Might get a sympathetic reply if I "bump" it 15 times. :mad:
 

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Well it's coming along pretty well. I haven't got in a lot of time on it between work and the rain (I'm doing this outside on the ground).

One issue I've had thus far is my clutch pedal. It doesn't not want to push all the way down. It will go about halfway or so and won't go down any further. The slave side isn't hooked up yet; I don't know if that has anything to do with it or not.

Transmission is bolted up but not torqued. What are the torque specs for the tranny mounting bolts?

I'm going to buy my gear oil tomorrow. I know I need Mopar, but how many quarts will it take to fill the trans and t-case?

Thanks all

Easy now I didnt see this thread yesterday. Slave must be hooked up to work properly, Not totally sure on the torque specs Ill post them up later on today. You need 4 quarts of tranny oil and 3 quarts of ATF for the transfer case. If you have the extra $21 Id add a 5th quart to the tranny.:thumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry I've just aggravated lately over the lack of replies to my posts. No I dont want the attention, I just need help. :lol3:

But thank you 5spd, that helps a lot. I was hoping you'd jump in this thread. I figured you would have some answers.

I'll get 5 quarts.
 

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Yah, what trans swap are you doing? It doesn't say in any of this thread.

If you keep pressing on that clutch pedal without it hooked up the hydraulics are going to break. Hopefully it still works. Hook it up before pumpin' on it.

Just tighten the trans good and tight.

I'd do a search for the trans fluid. Personally I only ran the 5speed for a very short while. I didn't care for it at all.


Merrick
 

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Tranny to bellhousing 80ft-lbs
Bellhousing to engine 35ft-lbs
Transfer Case to tranny 22-30ft-lbs
 

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Doing it outside sucks, I just replaced a broken input shaft and put it all together last nite. Thanks God for a garage.
 

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I'm gonna kinda just jump in here and threadjack a little but I haven't heard any good suggestions for synthetic fluids. I know the ATF+4 is synthetic but what about the tranny fluid? I'm unclear as to whether or not the NV4500 oil offered by MOPAR is synthetic or not. If it is, that's a good start but what about aftermarket oils like Royal Purple or B&M or Lucas? What about adding Lucas to the tranny and T-case?
 

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i just put in amsoil fully syncromesh manual transmission fluid 5/30 an personal i love it!
 

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I rebuild NV4500's on a regualr basis, now after saying that I wouldnt run anything but what the factory calls for- Castrol Syntorq. Ive seen first hand what other fluids can do and most of its not good. I believe the factory fluid is synthetic.
 

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Don't knock the dealer too hard, now. I work for Fowler Dodge and I love my work environment so far. They aren't screwing you, they're looking out for you. Lost of time, factory replacement parts have upgrades in the design built into them to prevent the same failure. Like the Lateral arms on the LX body cars (300, Chargr, Magnum). The bushings are prone to failure. WHen you get the new factory replacement, you also get the fix for that.

At least that's how I understand it.
 

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I'm in the process of converting my auto to nv4500 also. Question I have is the park/neutral wiring. Anyone know of what to do so it will start, have cruise, and reverse lights?
Thanks Tony
 

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I'm in the process of converting my auto to nv4500 also. Question I have is the park/neutral wiring. Anyone know of what to do so it will start, have cruise, and reverse lights?
Thanks Tony

You will have to figure out which ones go to the P or N and either cut them and tape them up or run the wires up to the clutch safety switch. For the reverse lights you going to need to figure out which ones go the lights and wire them to a plug that fits into the transmission. I dont think the cruise control will be affected.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
For the wiring here is what I've been told to do.

Take the wiring from the NSS on the auto transmission. This is a flat plug with 3 wires on it. Take the two outside wires and hook them to the reverse lights sensor on top of the nv4500 tranny. The orientation does not matter, just put them to the plug.

Now take the middle wire and tap into it. Run it up to the Clutch Safety Switch on your clutch pedal. Tap it into one of the two wires. Now take the other wire from the CSS and ground it on the firewall.

That's all the necessary wiring.
 
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