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1997 5.9 12v 3500 Dwr
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
So your saying while the gsk 4K spring kit will give me more rpm it’s not increasing my power band so low power in high rpm?

Maldonado I pulled my empty weight 8,500 lbs today around the “loop” around the city and was disappointed I was getting 15 psi boost wot.. the waste gate has been bypassed does that mean a boost elbow would be of no use to me?

In 4th with cruise set at 60 mph 2750-2,800 rpm going over the overpass on the loop the slight inclines it would drop down to 2600 rpm and 55 mph even with cruise off the same.. I’m really worried how it will pull some weight on. I don’t know if 15 psi boost is enough to account for this?
 

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I didn't say that. I said installing a fuel plate won't give you more rpm because defueling will take place. 15 psi sounds low, even for a stock engine. I would expect around 20. Did you install a fuel pressure gauge? Exactly how is the wastegate bypassed? Is the reference tube blocked off at the AFC? Is the gate wired shut? If the wastegate is inop a boost elbow is an ornament. How much play does the front turbo wheel have? Side to side and in and out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Like this (at least the previous owner told me this was how he bypassed it, said it drove like crap and had loss of power and after his buddy and him did this it drove much better THATS WHAT HE SAID , so who knows) ... I’ve only had this truck two weeks I bought it in a pinch on a start up business I needed it for a work truck to move heavy logs.. so don’t go to heavy on me I have a feeling I’m about to be the dumbest person in the room .. i’m a pretty mechanical person but I’ve been so busy with work
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That is similar to how mine is blocked off. I'm speculating that the wastegate itself is open. It isn't easy, but you can replace the actuator with the turbo installed. It takes some patience. Or you can wire the arm shut if it is moving freely.
This is what the wastegate looks like.

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Obviously it won't open that far with the cover installed. The arm will move about a 1/2 inch then. You want yours closed for maximum boost.

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Notice the arm position. Closed is toward the front of the truck.

I'm curious why you didn't buy one of the thousands of old class 8 trucks that are on the market. I've heard about numerous ones that are road ready and under $10,000. You need a CDL-A to pull that trailer anyway, why not use a truck that is built for those kinds of weights?

You didn't say if your turbo is worn. Pull the air hose off the front and see if the turbine wheel moves in and out or side to side. No in & out is good. Slight side to side as long as it doesn't touch the housing.
 

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1997 5.9 12v 3500 Dwr
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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
I go on back roads I don’t always tell that much a lot of times I have 12,000 pounds behind the bed bumper pull was easier to do it this way in my mind at the time

OK so I just checked the actuator and it is stuck in the closed position... The fan has no player housing so I decided on the turbo.
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however when I took the cover off to look to where to put a boost elbow it does not have a place like any of the other turbos I’ve seen so I’m wondering if there’s something missing off this? it’s also not open where would be the next place I look for a boost leak..

924249
924251
 

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Some turbos have a port to send air to the actuator. Ours do not. The air that opens the actuator comes from the fitting on the AFC. ??????????/Why are you trying to install the boost elbow anyway? With the air line going to the actuator being disconnected it won't do you a bit of good. It's only function is to delay the wastegate opening.

Check all the boots. You might have to rig up a smoke machine. automotive smoke machine - Yahoo Video Search Results
 

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So your saying while the gsk 4K spring kit will give me more rpm it’s not increasing my power band so low power in high rpm?
While I don't now, and have never, driven/ towed for a living, I do tow fairly frequently with my truck. The trailer I normally pull is around 3k lbs and it usually has something on it in the 6-9K lb range (so about half of what you say you're looking to tow).

For me personally, the 4k GSK has been my favorite mod with the best boost in drivability ( both loaded and unloaded) of all. It makes it so I don't drop off the turbo during the the 3-4 and 4-5 shift because I can hold RPM a little higher. They don't really make any more power, they just make the truck easier to drive IMHO. For me, a 4K GSK and +60 lb valve springs are day two of ownership modifications. I'd never go back to stock gov springs. Side note, I tow/ drive at the speed limit and around where I live that's normally 75 mph. I'd rather rebuild an engine every 100K miles and drive at the speed limit than have the engine last a million miles driving at 60 mph, but thats a personal preference.

My second favorite tow modification has been the traction bars. But my truck is a lifted 4x4 (block lifted in the rear) with rear supplemental load leveling air bags that would spring wrap the rear leaves with a heavy trailer. If you're not experiencing spring wrap then you probably don't need the traction bars.
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1997 5.9 12v 3500 Dwr
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Awesome thanks for the help everyone especially @GAmes for all the help going to get a 11 or 10 plate grind off some of the defueling hump and 4K springs.. and got one of these to test for boost leaks ...https://youtu.be/SZ1OiejfPHI

Now im going to start a new thread as the number #11 plates from 3 different online diesel shops are 87, $175, 237 I don’t understand if the differences and price to quality
 

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Awesome thanks for the help everyone especially @GAmes for all the help going to get a 11 or 10 plate grind off some of the defueling hump and 4K springs.
Don’t forget to increase the timing to help keep your EGT’s in check, adding the ability to add more fuel doesn’t do any good if you have to let off the throttle climbing a hill because you’re getting too hot. If you’re going to add more fuel you have to give the engine more time to burn it and increasing the timing will do just that.
 
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Don’t forget to increase the timing to help keep your EGT’s in check, adding the ability to add more fuel doesn’t do any good if you have to let off the throttle climbing a hill because you’re getting too hot. If you’re going to add more fuel you have to give the engine more time to burn it and increasing the timing will do just that.
perfct I never understood timing until just now thanks !!
 

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My 160 pump falls in its face hard at 1800 and 2000 its just making noise.... but im too lazy to do gsk and valve springs.

I have an upgraded hx 35/ hx 40 with a 14cm housing and a #10 plate. It moves pretty good, no black smoke but a fair amount of haze if lug it the slightest with a trailer.

*12.5 timing and stock intake too.
Tows good and egts never get high , but i haven't hooked anything over 10k in a while. i have a boost elbow too, but it never really goes past 25, but it gets there quick...
 

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I never had a 160 but you need to check to be sure which plates work for that engine/pump. They are pump specific. What works in one engine might be total crap for another. I found that out when I bought my first 12v plate from and vendor that didn't know spit from shinola and no matter which way I slid it, the power band was way wrong on one end or the other. Try sliding your 10 plate forward and see if you get more top end.
You don't need those springs unless you want higher than oem redline power or an ebrake. Like I said, fix the power band with the right plate and you won't have to worry about over-revving. IIRC my 215 pump had 13.5* built in and I added 4* for my elevation and there still wasn't any rattle when I was near S.L.
 

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It pulls good until it hits that defueling curven like a brick wall. I think the 160 pumps defuel a lot earlier
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
I never had a 160 but you need to check to be sure which plates work for that engine/pump. They are pump specific. What works in one engine might be total crap for another. I found that out when I bought my first 12v plate from and vendor that didn't know spit from shinola and no matter which way I slid it, the power band was way wrong on one end or the other. Try sliding your 10 plate forward and see if you get more top end.
You don't need those springs unless you want higher than oem redline power or an ebrake. Like I said, fix the power band with the right plate and you won't have to worry about over-revving. IIRC my 215 pump had 13.5* built in and I added 4* for my elevation and there still wasn't any rattle when I was near S.L.
yeah that’s really what I’m after is top end and i do have the 215 P7100 because I have the 5 speed manual so some people have suggested grinding off the defueling hop on a plate I think I’m going to run an 11 to milk all the life I can out of my 5 speed clutch... I use this truck for towing so let it make me some cash flow for a while and then put the South Bend clutch in and then go up to a #10 plate also Grinder defueling hump off of that..

but for now I got the exhaust brake that came with it working again so I’m hoping it has 60 pound valves in there cause there’s no way to check I got the 4000k governor springs in... and then the 11 plate for now ! My boost it down to 14 wot tho so am going to need a smoke test or a pressure test with windex!
 

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I’m hoping it has 60 pound valves in there cause there’s no way to check
Do you not read the responses you are given? Post #2

"60 lb valve springs are shaped like a barrel. The stock spring sides are more straight up and down".

There are several pictures that have been posted in the past. It takes about 10 minutes to check.
 

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You really shouldn't need to spin to 4k anyway.

Reving past 3200 without springs isnt going to blow the engine instantly anyway, people have done it.
 

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My 5th wheel camper weighs 14,665 empty. I also tow it with a 97 3500 extended cab 2 wheel drive automatic transmission with 3.55 gears. My fuel plate is in the glove box and my actuator seems to be rusted closed. Stock turbo and injectors. I have about 35psi at full steam. It's been timed but I don't recall how much advanced it is at this time. I just remember it was a safe towing advance. The EGT's hit 1,200 on long hills and I have to back off of it. Along with accelerating at half throttle with low boost pressures. I have a 4" MBRP stainless steel exhaust and the BHAF air filter sitting in the stock air box location.
With all that it still struggles to tow that much weight. I, too, tow at 60-65 mph. anything above that speed the engine temperature and exhaust temps get really hot.
I may have a drippy injector because it smokes black at idle. I am going to have them rebuilt to the manual transmission injector sized Bosch ones.
Maybe by reinstalling my fuel plate and grinding it to a more towing friendly profile I'd be happier?
 

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Ya definitely need a plate and cranking 35psi of boost is out of the hx 35s range/map
 

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My 5th wheel camper weighs 14,665 empty.

I may have a drippy injector because it smokes black at idle. I am going to have them rebuilt to the manual transmission injector sized Bosch ones.
Maybe by reinstalling my fuel plate and grinding it to a more towing friendly profile I'd be happier?
I'm pretty sure you don't tow it around empty, therefore that weight means little. How much does it weigh while you are traveling?

A fuel plate is just a stop. 215 injectors are only a fraction bigger than the 180s that came with your engine. IMO you need a lot more than that. More fuel, more air and a bigger radiator.
 

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I ordered my 97 5 spd with 3.54s for my 7400lb 5er and they were a great match for the 9 years I had that setup. My truck was rated for 10500 towing (12500 with 4.10s) and once I got up to a 9600 gvw 5er, I could see why... those gears sucked. I was towing a lot on 2 lane 55mph roads and I was down shifting on every little hill. Then I traded for an 03 HO 6spd 4.10 and later went to a 15k gvw 5er and that truck was terrific and the 6spd is soooo much better than than the 5spd!
Crewcabdodge, I don't think a 97 is rated to tow 14665 in any oem configuration but I bet you'd love 4.10s... also 215 fueling.
 
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