[champ22]

Hello everyone. New to the forum and the diesel talk, but I have been looking at getting a used diesel truck sometime in the near future. I currently have 2015 silverado 1500 and use it to tow my utility and enclosed trailers. We ride rzr's and I was wanting to upgrade to a toy hauler. Looking at fifth wheel toy haulers with a gross weight of 14500 or that area. My question is, if I'm getting a used truck in the 2015-2017 range, will the 2500 CTD be enough to haul a trailer like that. I've looked at the recommended rates and it seems like only the newer 2016-2017 trucks will pull that much weight. Just trying to get some ideas of what I need to be looking for, whether it needs to be newer model years or possibly the 3500 model. Also, what's your experience towing a fifth wheel with a 6 foot bed vs an 8 ft bed. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


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[dillonjm]

You’ll be happier just getting the 3500 SRW.

The 2500 will handle it and do better if you add some suspension support. Functionally the truck isn’t any different minus the suspension (in what matters) 2500 to 3500 with the same transmission option and SRW.

That said, the 3500 won’t be any more expensive and will handle it better out of the box.

 

[Ltngdrvr]

There's only about a thousand threads covering this question already, you're just re-opening the big freakin' can of worms.

A 2500 CTD Automatic, since at least 2014 model year, is rated to tow over 16K GVWR trailers.

I tow 5th wheels on a regular basis with my 2500 CTD MC that weigh 14K, wouldn't worry at all about towing 14.5K.

Now that you've re-opened the can of worms you will get all the naysayers telling you you shouldn't tow that trailer with your truck.

 

[champ22]

Thank you guys for the quick responses and your input on the matter....And I'm sorry for reopening said can if worms.


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[pwr2tow]

See my avatar and signature.

In most states a 3500 will cost a lot more in yearly registration fees.

The weight police will show up soon trying to scare/bully/harrass you into thinking you need a 3500 for legal reasons. It's all B.S. if you're not commercial towing. Recreational is exempt, no if, and, or buts.

If for any reason you think you need a 3500 get a dually and then you'll know you have the best handling, towing, stability platform.

 

[HeavyTwo]

First, do not apologize for making a post or not searching. I can assure you, that no can of worms has been opened. Its common on most forms for "regulars" to get upset when people post a common question or do not use search. These members tend to think this is a FAQ site, and not a Forum where people can ask questions. This attitude tends to scare off new members. I personally think the questions you ask are fine.

Personally, as long as the truck is rated to tow the trailer you want, I'd look at 2500's first. They have coil springs front and rear, and tend to ride a little better than 3500s. This would be more important if you plan to daily drive the truck with no trailer. Also, registration fees / taxes will be cheaper for a 2500. Obviously this depends on your county. So this will make your cost of ownership a little cheaper.

If you want a little more truck, then a 3500 would be a good path too. If you buy the right 3500, you can get a more powerful Cummins engine & better stronger transmission.

I have no input on 6ft or 8ft bed. Although, the longer the bed, the better the truck will pull. Longer wheelbase trucks are more stable.

Make sure to return and post pictures of you new rig (Truck and Trailer).
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[boshog]

We ride rzr's and I was wanting to upgrade to a toy hauler. Looking at fifth wheel toy haulers with a gross weight of 14500 or that area. My question is, if I'm getting a used truck in the 2015-2017 range, will the 2500 CTD be enough to haul a trailer like that.

I've looked at the recommended rates and it seems like only the newer 2016-2017 trucks will pull that much weight. Just trying to get some ideas of what I need to be looking for, whether it needs to be newer model years or possibly the 3500 model.

Also, what's your experience towing a fifth wheel with a 6-foot bed vs an 8 ft bed. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Realize there is a difference between pulling weight and carrying weight and the HD's have specifications for both payload and towing weights. Both the RAM Cummins 2500 and 3500 single rear wheel versions can pull around 17,000 plus pounds but they differ in how much weight they are specified to carry. The payload number can be found on the tire pressure placard in the drivers' door jamb.

Fifth wheel RV's usually place about 20% of their loaded weight on the tow vehicle, sometimes more. A 14,000 plus pound fifth wheel will most likely exceed a 2500s payload. To be safe, look at the RV's ratings and use the RV's GVWR to calculate pin weight.

6-foot versus 8-foot bed. I can tell you, now that I have a few years experience pulling a fifth wheel around the country, if I had to do it over again I would get the 8-foot bed. The main reason, you have much more clearance between the truck cab and the RV cap. The downside, many site-seeing venues have limited and tight parking making the 8-foot bed a bit of a maneuvering challenge at times. If you go with a 6-foot bed, also go with an auto-sliding fifth wheel hitch to avoid the costly cap/cab repairs, ask me how I know this

 

[Grit dog]

3500 is a nice solution, however the gains in towing and real world payload are kind of insignificant (save for getting an Aisin, with more power, still same rear gears though).
The 2500s don't even sag much at the rated payload (10kgvw limited) and save for the rear springs, a 3500 with a 68re trans is the same truck as the 2500.

The bigger dilemma is if buying used, just like new, there are about 10x as many 2500s to choose from which makes it difficult finding the "right" 3500.

There's nothing wrong with the coil rear suspension other than in high c of g applications.
Add some bags to the 2500 and tow away, IMO.

 

[Don82146]

Hello everyone. New to the forum and the diesel talk, but I have been looking at getting a used diesel truck sometime in the near future. I currently have 2015 silverado 1500 and use it to tow my utility and enclosed trailers. We ride rzr's and I was wanting to upgrade to a toy hauler. Looking at fifth wheel toy haulers with a gross weight of 14500 or that area. My question is, if I'm getting a used truck in the 2015-2017 range, will the 2500 CTD be enough to haul a trailer like that. I've looked at the recommended rates and it seems like only the newer 2016-2017 trucks will pull that much weight. Just trying to get some ideas of what I need to be looking for, whether it needs to be newer model years or possibly the 3500 model. Also, what's your experience towing a fifth wheel with a 6 foot bed vs an 8 ft bed. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


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Another thing to consider...............not discussed on the forums much. Is your “backseat driver” comfortable with small inputs from the trailer? Or is said person likely to start “nagging” and freaking out if a small gust of wind pushes the trailer a bit? All these things can make an otherwise fun trip kind of miserable. I started pulling my Raptor with a SRW Ford SuperDuty 250 gasser, and when pulling hills, of course the gasser would downshift and the RPM’s would go Ford high (4500+ RPM) and the comments would start. She could feel the wind push the rig around a bit and the comments would start. Made towing a rather miserable experience overall for me. So promtly went to town and traded for a diesel dually and have not looked back! With some of my friends over beers we have had similar experiences when we are talking “guy talk”.
At any rate, good luck in your search!

 

[Lins]

Personally, as long as the truck is rated to tow the trailer you want, I'd look at 2500's first. They have coil springs front and rear, and tend to ride a little better than 3500s. This would be more important if you plan to daily drive the truck with no trailer. Also, registration fees / taxes will be cheaper for a 2500. Obviously this depends on your county. So this will make your cost of ownership a little cheaper.


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If the OP wants a better ride he should get smaller rims. The older but low mileage 3500 I test drove on 17s or 18s (whatever the earlier 4th gens came with) rode better than my 2500 on 20s.

 

[NDBirdman]

I'll make no comments on the truck size, 2500/3500. That's your decision, go with what makes *you* happy, not the forum weight police. Mines the short bed, I tow a 14k loaded RV. I use the Anderson hitch, never had a problem with clearance issues. A lot depends on your hitch and camper, some older RVs have square lower corners on the front cap making tight turns iffy, always use a spotter if that's the case. My RV is a 2002 without the round lower but not the big square fronts I have seen on some. The Anderson sets the ball back a few inches, enough to make a huge difference. A regular 5th wheel hitch, I suspect would put the camper nose way too close to the rear truck window. In that, I have no experience as I've always had the Anderson.

 

[hooked55]

Another thing to consider...............not discussed on the forums much. Is your “backseat driver” comfortable with small inputs from the trailer? Or is said person likely to start “nagging” and freaking out if a small gust of wind pushes the trailer a bit? All these things can make an otherwise fun trip kind of miserable. I started pulling my Raptor with a SRW Ford SuperDuty 250 gasser, and when pulling hills, of course the gasser would downshift and the RPM’s would go Ford high (4500+ RPM) and the comments would start. She could feel the wind push the rig around a bit and the comments would start. Made towing a rather miserable experience overall for me. So promtly went to town and traded for a diesel dually and have not looked back! With some of my friends over beers we have had similar experiences when we are talking “guy talk”.
At any rate, good luck in your search!

When the wifey “backseat driver” starts complaining about crosswinds or anything else when we’re on the road, I grin at her and say “careful, remember the passenger seat eject button!”

 

[CFM567]

Hi Champ! Bottom line, you will be over the legal GVWR of a 2500 for sure. All you have to do is decide if you are ok with that. The truck will handle the weight just fine.

Good luck!

CFM

 

[SloChicken]

Been towing a 15k 36’ 5er for about 20k miles over the past year - no problems, just added AirRide 5k airsprings (about $250 and an hour of labor - all bolt on and easy install).

If you are buying a post ‘14 2500 it will come with rear coils, which are going to be more comfortable but have been problematic for suspension upgrading or adding airbags it seems. Leafs on the other hand, are very standard and have many suspension options should you choose to upgrade.

In general, most the 2500s and 3500s (until the aisin trans 3500s) are the same trucks, so once you add springs inthe back it will serve as the 3500 does, but you bpcan air down when unladen and have the softer ride the 3/4ton 2500 offers.

I would certainly get a long bed truck, otherwise it is mandatory to use a sliding hitch, which is about $1k more expensive than a no-sliding hitch.
If you run a non-sliding hitch in a short bed, you are risking, and almost absolutely going to run the front cap of the trailer into the rear corner of your truck roof one day = sadness, money, and repairs to both your truck, and the trailer.

Bigger than anything, be nice to the transmission, no towing on grades in OD gears with that kind of load or expect a trans rebuild in your future.

Last, check your tire wt rating and height.
I am running 285/70/18 (33.7”) amd can’t really run much taller as the trailer wouldn’t run level otherwise. Nose high trailering is a bad idea, transfers wt rearward and puts more wt on the rear axle.
I had to add 3”blocks to my axles and upsize to a larger tire in the trailer, just to accomodate my prior 35” tires.
It is far bette with these smaller tires however, both due to the stiffer tire, and the better profile (level trailer and truck combo) than it was with the 35” tires on the truck and before the lift and tires to the trailer.

 

[tsconver]

Hi Champ! Bottom line, you will be over the legal GVWR of a 2500 for sure. All you have to do is decide if you are ok with that. The truck will handle the weight just fine.

Good luck!

CFM

How many times do we have to go down this road. Please show me a single state or federal law that will result in a ticket if I exceed my door sticker. That sticker is for BS around taxes and registration fees. Nothing more. NC could care less if I am over the sticker weight for payload as long as my weighted tags cover my total combined weight. As long as you are under the weight limit of the tires you are running and your axle it will not violate any laws.

 

[HeavyTwo]

Hi Champ! Bottom line, you will be over the legal GVWR of a 2500 for sure. All you have to do is decide if you are ok with that. The truck will handle the weight just fine.

Good luck!

CFM

How many times do we have to go down this road. Please show me a single state or federal law that will result in a ticket if I exceed my door sticker. That sticker is for BS around taxes and registration fees. Nothing more. NC could care less if I am over the sticker weight for payload as long as my weighted tags cover my total combined weight. As long as you are under the weight limit of the tires you are running and your axle it will not violate any laws.

Ah, snap. Someone actually "opened a can of worms".... >

 

[Don82146]

And.................DOT does NOT give a rats rear about RV’s. PERIOD

 

[MajorMalfunction]

I can only stress that if you have a short bed and tow a 5th wheel that you account for the fact that the nose of the trailer has a REALLY good chance of hitting your cab on a sharp turn. Will it hit? There are trailers out there "designed for short beds" but there is no guarantee it won't hit the cab. To get around this, you either get a sliding hitch (manual or auto) or you get a king pin offset for the trailer. Either one will increase your cost several hundred dollars or more over and above the standard equipment. I have a Demco Hijacker autoslide hitch in my short bed that is capable of handling 18k lbs and will slide back 22" when I exceed a turn greater than 15 degrees. Then it autoslides back as I straighten out.

That hitch costs about $1200. But I would think any contact between your cab and trailer is going to exceed that in damages if you don't have the correct clearance. In the end, these toys we have are expensive and you have to outfit them the right way. There's no "ooops!" with this much size and weight. Better than to be safe than sorry. Enjoy!

 

[Ricky_Bobby]

How many times do we have to go down this road. Please show me a single state or federal law that will result in a ticket if I exceed my door sticker. That sticker is for BS around taxes and registration fees. Nothing more. NC could care less if I am over the sticker weight for payload as long as my weighted tags Or my Specialized Plate cover my total combined weight. As long as you are under the weight limit of the tires you are running and your axle it will not violate any laws.

^^Most don't know that the statute in NC requires weighted on the tag for the Rams (or about 7000 GVW I believe) if you don't have a specialized plate - if you order one of the 100+ special plates for your truck don't need it, you just can't have one of our standard "First in Flight/Freedom" plates on the truck if above 7,000 lbs - I just got rid of the weighted tag for the US flag "In God We Trust" plate - I don't tow for a living (or at all currently)

According to NC General Statute 20-63 paragraph (b), “vehicles licensed for 7,000 pounds through 26,000 pounds must bear the word “weighted,’ unless the plate is a special registration plate authorized in G.S. 20-79-4.” That means that one can have a specialty plate like the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation or First in Forestry tag, for example, on their truck and not need the weighted plate.

 

[Radride]

Get the 3500 because its more capable. Order it with the factory rear air option. Get the short bed and if towing a 5er, and get the sidewinder hitch. You can jack knife the trailer and not hit your cab.

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R.K.