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Towing question

2591 Views 27 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  bigfish95971

I have a bone stock 2000 Dodoge 2500 Diesel 4x4 extra cab with 185K miles, auto trans. I just got it two months ago.

Took my 30 foot 6000 lb travel trailer too the foothills, elevation 2500 feet. On a estimated 8% climb my MPH went down to 35, and engine temp. climbed to 200-210.

Is that normal, this is my first cummins.

Any tips
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Not sure about the final speed as I don't have an auto. With my 5spd (even when stock), I'd grab fourth and it'd have to be a heck of hill or load to drag it down that far. Seems like the auto would be similar out of o/d though, since that's direct drive as well. Maybe trans needs alittle help?
As for the temps, some things to think about: condition of coolant, possibly needing a radiator flush, engine blowby build-up on cooling system. Still have the factory crankcase ventilation bottle on the front of the timing case? If so, not going to help you stay cool and has been gleefully spewing everywhere for the last 180k+ miles. Search for CCV mod.
Thanks for the reply.
The coolant is fresh.
I removed the factory crankcase vent. bottle and i placed a PVC pipe and routed the breather to the back of the motor because i was getting diesel smell in the cab. I will try Radiator flush. Checked blow by by placing the oil fill cap losely on the fill hole at the top of the motor and it did not move.
35mph in the floor board? or pedal at same position?
An 8% grade is a pretty good climb.

What were your EGTs and FP?
Good deal on the reroute. However, unless you cleaned the intercooler and radiator, they are probably covered in oily residue and clogged (externally) like no other.
If your stock I'd check yor fuel psi. Also what have you done to the truck? Full fluids and filter changes?
Fill out your signature at. The bottom of your post so we all know the specs on your truck. Did you have OD off?
Also are you sure of the weight of the trailer? 6000 pounds sounds light for a 30 footer. Did you use your o/d off button? 200-210 doesn't sound to hot for that kind of load, IMO.
Mine will do the same thing. I think we both suffer from stockitis. Dshupe24 is correct about the weight, that's awful light for a 30 footer. My 30 foot Puma is listed at 7700#. I haven't weighed it empty, but loaded with the holding tanks empty it weighs 9200#. I'm not sure at what point mine was weighed at the factory, but I didn't add 1500# of stuff to it. My temp will not get over 190 with it mashed to the floor and the thermostat will open and it'll go down to 160-170. Fuel psi is what u should be concerned with for now, ideally u should be making 14+ psi to recirc some fuel to aid in cooling the vp44. Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this but the vp44 will live for a while on anything greater than 10 psi. I bought my truck with 95k on it and immediately put a fuel psi gauge on it and it read 6 psi at idle and 4 at wot. Needless to say, i had to replace the vp44 at 99k. I put a DDRP 02 on it and I make 19 at idle and 16 cruising and 13 pulling the camper but can drag it down further if I stomp on it. It's not the greatest pump, but it's better than stock. I'm shopping for a set of rv 275 injectors now just to try to get what hp I can out of it, that's going to be about all the hp these stock transmissions will hold
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Thanks for the info..
I have no extra gauges...looks like that's my next purchase.

Going up the hill. .I gave it more gas...but I did not floor it due to the rising water temp.
Radiator fluid is new..I will flush the radiator. ..should I remove it and clean it also?

The truck has an in tank fuel pump..

Yes..the trailer is a Jayco Jay Flight 26 bh...I was rolling without any water on board. ..trailer says 5400 lbs on sticker
Ummm... Come to Idaho.

No problems here hauling trailers on these grades. Biggest thing is not to hurry but to slow down and grab some gears down and kick the RPM's back up to about 2K and watch EGT's if the EGT's are above 1,200*F gear down again. If you drive like the big truck temps are not a problem.
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CAglock. Pull your radiator out and steam clean it off. Degrease it and your intercooler. If you are the first persons to relocate the crank breather bottle then its likely plugged and causing higher temps.
Peak of summer towing my 8300lbs bumper pull up a 7% grade for about 2miles I averaged 35-40mph its a 40mph hill. And coolant temps were 190-200 and my egts never got over a 1000. Fuel psi was right at 18.5 and I still had a lot left to give it if I needed to.

Also did you personally change or have a shop change your air filter, fuel filter, trans fluid and filter and adjust trans bands??
210 isn't abnormal. For the record, mine, hauling an open trailer stock would do the same thing with my Jeep in tow. You *NEED* gauges. It's really easy to overheat the engine on the Exhaust Gas Temp side with a stock rig pulling heavy up grades.
EGT, Fuel Pressure, Boost (helpful, but not required)

Upgrade your transmission... at least a shift kit and new torque converter. Preferably a fully built transmission.

Then you need to add power. An Edge Comp, or whatever programmer you like will help.

With the upgraded transmission and Edge Comp set on 3x3, I can now tow up the same grade at 55mph, and still have some margin left to accelerate. Highway cruise is *much* easier, and much more enjoyable. It doesn't get as warm (EGT), even when at WOT for long periods. It's just a *MUCH* nicer drive.

Stock, these things are slow, slow, slow. My water temp is usually between 190-210*, depending on load. I've got no issues with 210*, personally.

Hope that helps some.
Also I wouldn't worry about 210, some guys here are installing and running with good feedback a 200* thermostat. As stated above get gauges first thing. Start with a fuel psi gauge and a big line kit for easy install and to be able to kill two birds with one stone. The big line kit helps keep the volume of fuel fed to the injection pump. Then after you at least get a fuel psi gauge and fuel psi looks good. I would then get a BHAF, then maybe remove the resonator out of the exhaust system but leave muffler. Then start saving like said above and install a shift kit and convertor or just buy a new valve body. After that I would start to save for a new fuel lift pump like a fass 150 or something to make all supporting mods there and installed then you can safely start adding power adders like a programmer or injectors and turbo.
Have fun and keep us posted as to what updates you do along the way.
Thanks for all of the info.

The dealer who sold me the truck did the fuel and air filter and changed the radiator fluid. He is a family friend so and I trust him.

When I remove radiator and intercooler. ..can I take them to the self wash and steam clean...or do I need to take them to radiator shop?

Any tips on removing and saving the radiator fluid....should I just remove the bottom radiator hose?

I am not too familiar with adjustments on the transbands
you sure get advice. some good and some just dumb.
Droping the lower rad hose will not get all coolant drained. The heater core and engine block will still be full. Doubt that rad needs flushing. Pull rad and wash with low pressure steam is fine. High pressure bends the fins together VERY easy. Having a rad shop clean is a good deal if it is plugged.
I think Mopar1973Man said it well. Let the truck downshift and keep the revs up above 2000 without going to WOT. 210 is NOT overheating. Drive and enjoy.
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Another thought, If you got stuck in 2nd gear your transmission will heat up more because of it not being able to lock up, which in turn will also heat up your engine temp. It happen to my 90 auto on a regular basis.
I typically find people running excessively hot because they are trying to tow heavy up a grade in top gear and keep highway speeds. But if you gear down and kick the R's up you notice the coolant temperature and the EGT's fall together.

The fair end of the normal range is like 220*F which is still OK to run. Personally there is no reason to run it that hot when you can slow down just a wee bit and grab 1 gear down to lessen the load on the engine. It kind of lie riding a bicycle in top gear it nearly impossible to do up hill but grab a few gears down you can climb quite easy. The truck is no different.
:agree2: The easiest thing for the truck is drop a gear and keep the engine working where it thrives. Better to get to the top of the hill a little later than end up on the side of the road.
35-40 mph? i can drag my 28' 5er at 12000 70+ with ease up 20 mile hill. 6% grade 90% of the way.
even parts that were 7% was not an issue. i run 1030 EGT and 27 psi boost, in drive no OD. my coolant varied from 196-208

see if this works.

get a programmer, then tranny welcome to the new addiction!!!
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