Torque Converters

When I get mine done I'm going with Goerend!!! :thumbsup

you will lose some accel with the five star, thats has been my experience. oh and you will get the dang code p1740 torque convertor clutch inductive signature malfunction. if you tow anything the truck will run very weak when this code is set.

call up gus at farmboys diesel, he hooked me up and i like it so far :thumbsup

Figure out how tight you want it and where you want the stall. That's 10 times more important than what company it comes from, and a lot harder to decide.

how do you figure all that out? i am kicking the TC around right now and have no idea how to get the right one for me. i just want something that doesn't make the tranny slip with my smarty jr. on the 70hp and 100hp settings if i feel like standing on it.

06ramcummins said:

you will lose some accel with the five star, thats has been my experience. oh and you will get the dang code p1740 torque convertor clutch inductive signature malfunction. if you tow anything the truck will run very weak when this code is set.

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this is correct i have an 00' but no code. i like mine. when that thing goes into lock up it hits hard. i also have the valve body as you see in my sig. i like both of them though

tight converters are great for towing pulling and trans temps and efficency, while loose converters are good for building boost off the line and neck snapping takeoffs JmO!

Teen wolf said:

tight converters are great for towing pulling and trans temps and efficency, while loose converters are good for building boost off the line and neck snapping takeoffs JmO!

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Good Analogy.....

Not all tight converters have issues spooling turbos.

Decide what mods your gonna add and then shop for the converter. I highly recommend swapping both the converter and Valve body at the same time, they work together and you will get your best gain when doing both.

JMO

I called a local shop that installs ATS converters and he advised to do the whole tranny clutches and all. He said he's had a few come back a month after a converter and VB with the 1-2-3-4 clutches burned up. Of course the price goes from around $2k to $6K.

I got to talk to someone at Goerend the other day for a couple minutes and as I was trying to get some info I had a customer walk up and had to hang up. The little bit I got to talk to them I got the feeling the TQ and VB would be all I would need, unless I like to stand on it alot or race and then the input shaft would be a good idea.

How do I decide on a stall rpm? The stock TC seems to be around 2,800 rpm and with a good tune on the smarty there seems to be no stall, just redline. I don't want stiff shifts, I like the buttery soft stock shifting during normal driving.

We sell both single and triple disc converters..... the single fits the bill for most people out there, and is the most efficient one we sell. If you want smooth shifts you need to stick with a simple or stock valve body, but that can cost you trans life if you are running power mods.

Stahl speed is very deceiving, a converter that stahls at 1900 rpms on a stock truck will stahl later on a higher hp truck. The converter industry has no standards to rate converters by, some companies use stahl speed to quantitatively describe their product while others use an efficiency rating. We have boiled it down to 2 different converters which work well and normally ask the customer what they want and where they will be going..... the answers to those questions tells us which converter to ship.

So which one would I want? I have described what I want and I would like to be able to run the 170 hp tune on the Smarty eventually so the TCC would need to be up to the job. I also think I would like the lower stall TCC. The high rpm's while accelerating really aggrivate me. The torque range for the diesel is down low and the stock tranny like to run about 2500 rpm under normal acceleration.

JacktheBear3 said:

Good Analogy.....

Not all tight converters have issues spooling turbos.

Decide what mods your gonna add and then shop for the converter. I highly recommend swapping both the converter and Valve body at the same time, they work together and you will get your best gain when doing both.

JMO

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Thank you sir!

I wonder why the ATS converter makes you loose accel.? Thats one thing I was expecting to gain from an aftermarket converter!!! I dont plan on going balls to the wall. I have a superchips flashpaq now but would like to buy a smarty eventually and not have to worry. So just a converter wouldn't suffice for an intake, exhaust, aggressive programmer setup?

The ATS is a boat anchor of a TQ converter. That is one heavy chunk of metal to get rotating. Don't get me wrong, it's a great product but those 5 clutch disks are heavy.

We are in need soon, I was leaning towards a Suncoast converter... does anybody run their single disc converter?

my stock converter was about 50lbs and the ats with fluid is about 85lbs that is no joke. is there anyone else running this converter.

Also check with Farmboys diesel. He has good deals on tc's. I am very happy with mine.

He sells his own or other companies products? How do i get in touch with him?

I've got nothing but good things to say about Goerends products and his service. I did contact an ATS dealer about TC and VB, they wanted $3k to install them in my truck. I went with a full tranny and installed it myself. Cant beat a lifetime warranty on Goerend's TC either.