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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm still getting a shudder vibration after having a rebuilt tranny put in my 02 Dodge. They replace the torque converter again and it continued to shudder. I was told that I'm towing a trailer that is too heavy. I weighed it and it's just over 10200. Next option is putting in a triple disc converter. What's everyone's thoughts on this. Also was told to go to a one piece driveline. Just had the u-joints and carrier bear changed. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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My truck has a 6 inch lift but is lifted about 3 in the rear.I used an old lift block that is about 1 1/4 inch thick and drilled it to make a spacer to lower the carrier bearing down.It took care of the shudder .
You may want to consider traction bars as well.
 

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Does it do it in both 3rd and OD lockup? In first or second? Do it when empty?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey Bigfish. How's things.

We've come to the conclusion the new U-joints that were put in were from Napa and they did not hold up with the weight I'm towing. Headed to Reno tomorrow to Driveline and Gear to have them either build a one piece aluminum driveline or replace the existing one with a new heavy duty two piece with heavier u-joints and carrier bearing. Hopefully this stops the vibration.

Thanks for the response.
 

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Seen this before. Were the Napa u-joints the correct ones. Sometimes they give the wrong ones that are a bit short on the crosses or small on bearing size. If they were not perfectly tight they could be off center or loose a bit and off center causing wobble. Worn out only usually occurs if dry after years, A loose yoke can be a problem too. Any wobble in it?
PS, with drive line out on back check the pinion bearings for lateral or front to rear play. Both should be zero. Just a little rotational gear lash.
 

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Seen this before. Were the Napa u-joints the correct ones. Sometimes they give the wrong ones that are a bit short on the crosses or small on bearing size. If they were not perfectly tight they could be off center or loose a bit and off center causing wobble. Worn out only usually occurs if dry after years, A loose yoke can be a problem too. Any wobble in it?
PS, with drive line out on back check the pinion bearings for lateral or front to rear play. Both should be zero. Just a little rotational gear lash.
I had trouble finding some new u-joints for my '98. And that was at a drive shaft specialty shop. They had to take at least 6 joints from stock and hand match with my old one when their cross reference listing was wrong. I never throw out old parts until the job is well proven. Old parts could be the only source of info that you will ever have for matching correct replacements. I wrote the part numbers of my replacements in my shop manual right on the drawing.
 

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Accurate reading or tape measure and cailper always helps along wiht reading and applying the proper truck model and applications including ratios, and model numbers of drivetrain components, engine, Trani, TC, diffs etc. and past modifications.
OH, and talking to a real parts guy/store.
 

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Accurate reading or tape measure and cailper always helps along wiht reading and applying the proper truck model and applications including ratios, and model numbers of drivetrain components, engine, Trani, TC, diffs etc. and past modifications.
OH, and talking to a real parts guy/store.
At Drive Products they overhaul and build drive shafts for vehicles and machinery. The guys are very knowledgable. The problem was that their listing for my vehicle application was wrong. As far as I know, my drive shaft is all original. Perhaps my drive shaft is a strange variation from normal production. They measured my joint with calipers and eventually hand picked a u-joint to match. They were quite patient to spend more than 30 minutes to find about a $20 part. Apparently service to those people still means something. I'll be going back when I need another drive line part, or need a shaft overhauled.
 

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No offense intended. My guess the problem is with their listings matching models, For stock drivelines listings should be accurate and there is not "One-offs".
The possible differences are:
Year,
2500/3500
Auto VS Manual, 5 0r 6, also equals Dana 70 vs Dana 80
Possibly 2x4 vs 4x4
Long bed VS short bed and one or 2 piece drive line
V-8 vs diesel or V-10
Greasable or not (optional)
Front and rear and position of each

Not saying this is you or your store but a good example of mistake made is you go in and ask for a "u-joint for your front axle on your 2500....." A store clerk aka "parts guy" gives you a U-joint for the front driveline at the differential(axle) OR visa-versa. Another is 70 vs 80.
There were some differences but no one-offs. If any one has changed anything, Diffs, drivelines, yokes, then all bets are off.
All is easily checked by measurements. Same goes for seals and bearings.

When unknown match two simple measurements should cover it.
Just measure any U-joint cross outside cap exact measurement and
the diameter of the caps. Snap rings usually do not matter and they have both. Type of strap and bolts does not matter unless bolt caps, straps must match diameter size.
When buying Spicer at or BCA at any Bearing store or parts store I have never had a problem matching when all information is provided accurately. I have some listings that fail to account for V-8 vs Diesel and so on or position. Not necessarily the persons service but the Mfg literature.

If in doubt you can always nowadays look up part numbers on Rockauto fairy accurately with all the options shown if available. Good for most all except dealer or body parts.
 

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No offense intended. My guess the problem is with their listings matching models, For stock drivelines listings should be accurate and there is not "One-offs".
The possible differences are:
Year,
2500/3500
Auto VS Manual, 5 0r 6, also equals Dana 70 vs Dana 80
Possibly 2x4 vs 4x4
Long bed VS short bed and one or 2 piece drive line
V-8 vs diesel or V-10
Greasable or not (optional)
Front and rear and position of each

Not saying this is you or your store but a good example of mistake made is you go in and ask for a "u-joint for your front axle on your 2500....." A store clerk aka "parts guy" gives you a U-joint for the front driveline at the differential(axle) OR visa-versa. Another is 70 vs 80.
There were some differences but no one-offs. If any one has changed anything, Diffs, drivelines, yokes, then all bets are off.
All is easily checked by measurements. Same goes for seals and bearings.

When unknown match two simple measurements should cover it.
Just measure any U-joint cross outside cap exact measurement and
the diameter of the caps. Snap rings usually do not matter and they have both. Type of strap and bolts does not matter unless bolt caps, straps must match diameter size.
When buying Spicer at or BCA at any Bearing store or parts store I have never had a problem matching when all information is provided accurately. I have some listings that fail to account for V-8 vs Diesel and so on or position. Not necessarily the persons service but the Mfg literature.

If in doubt you can always nowadays look up part numbers on Rockauto fairy accurately with all the options shown if available. Good for most all except dealer or body parts.
Thanks Bigfish. Probably there was something wrong by the options. My truck is 4WD with quad cab, 8 ft box, and 5 speed manual. Suppose my drive shaft arrangement differs from a truck with say regular cab and 6 ft box. And the shop cross reference list did no include my options. Anyway, they hand matched a u-joint that measures correctly.
 

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When in doubt that it the way. Ther is both two piece and one piece drivelines depanding on truck length. The biggest mistake I think is the 70 (auto) and 80 Manual have different u-joints. Some guys do not look up that difference.
 
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