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· Registered
93 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got around to ordering new control arms and decided to upgrade my steering as well.

This will be the 3rd set of steering arms on the truck, this time I'm upgrading to the heavy duty 'T' style used in certain years.

The following MOOG parts were purchased for a 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4. The parts are known as 'heavy duty' components.


This includes everything except the tie rod end and adjusting sleeve located at the pitman arm, which were reused.

My vehicle had ongoing handling issues with the current modifications of 2" leveling kit, and 35x12.5-20 tires.

Upgrades to date have been:
Redhead steering gear
steering stabilizer brace
steering column support bushing
borgeson steering shaft
MOOG ball joints
MOOG track bar
MOOG sway bar bushings
MOOG replacement 'y' steering components
Rancho steering stabilizer (single)

The truck was tiresome to drive even with all the parts above. Bumps in the road would sent it in all directions, and it would wander all over the highway if you're not paying attention and constantly correcting it.

Also installed a set of MAXX links sway bar links, from Summit racing, about $80.

Top Gunz Customs control arms off ebay. I was surprised at the quality of these units for the low price. I would definitely recommend.

Maxx sway bar links. Quality units.


Stock 'y' steering

Top Gunz control arms compared to stock

Both steering systems compared

Homemade precision wheel alignment


Handling improvement is significant. Railroad tracks and bumps no longer send the truck in all directions, and sometimes I can even take my hands off the wheel. The steering feels much tighter and more responsive. Return to center has greatly improved, probably due to the new control arms. I'm still tweaking the toe but as it is, it drives pretty good.

NOTE: The 't' steeing upgrade does not have provisions for use of a steering stabilizer. As such, I have not yet installed mine and will be making a clamp bracket to adapt it to the tie rod. Currently, with no stabilizer, 35" mud tires and offset 20" wheels the truck still drives MUCH better than before. I suspect it will improve still with the addition of a stabilizer.

I recommend changing the cam bolts and washers when installing new control arms. The indexing flat on one of the washers was rounded out, and as a result, did not allow for proper caster adjustment. Bolts are available at the dealer for a reasonable price.

Overall, very worthwhile upgrades and very affordable.


· Registered
918 Posts
Hey, looks good! I've got a couple of questions though. First, how much longer are the lower control arms than the upper? I will probably be building my own, and am just trying to get a general idea of what they should be compared to stock. Second, you said that you reused the rod end and the adjuster sleeve at the pitman arm, but in your pics it shows your old sleeve still on the old parts. I'm guessing you didn't realized it could be reused when you did the install. I would like to do this in the summer sometime and would like to get everything I need to get it done. Thanks!

· Registered
475 Posts

· Registered
5,648 Posts
Excellent write up!, I do notice that your track bar has the same issue mine did, if you notice its near bottomed out against the bracket, so when the suspension moves, the track bar cant articulate without binding or pulling the ball out of the socket.

· Kansas Chapter VP
Big Red. 1993 W350. NV 4500. HX35.
5,411 Posts

That's a nice looking setup!!!!:drool2:

I might have to do the same of my rig sometime!!!!!!!!!!!:blues:

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