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Discussion Starter #1
Is there any such thing as too much clutch? I have been looking at the single disks and dual disks and I want to do it 1 time. I don't want to spend money this month and next year when I get a new upgrade on the truck be slipping my clutch again. I tow heavy so longevity and holding power are important to me.

I have been eying the dual disk 3600# ceramic clutches. Is this too much clutch. I guess what I am asking is that is it worth it to go ahead and spend the $500 more once to be done with it than to have to worry about buying another clutch down the road.


The story...
I have a stock motor with a drop in air filter and a muffler delete. I run my smarty on various lower levels and I am already slipping my clutch on the lower economy levels with only 24k on the clock. I want to be able to run whatever smarty level I want to unloaded, not including stacking, and still hold it and then be able to back it down and tow my camper to the next site that I have to go to.

I pull heavy. I live in my RV and travel with work so it is pretty heavy and I have towed it 4,000 miles since the end of March. It weighs between 17k and 18k and I crossed the scales at 25,000lbs even last time I weighed.

I am not really worried about pedal pressure, I am a big boy and can get used to it. I will be doing the hydraulic upgrade because I already think my stock hydraulics suck but that is just my opinion. My stocker is ok for now but I need one before I haul another 2500 mile trip in September with my camper in tow.

I searched multiple times and never really could get an answer as to whether you could have too much clutch.

Thanks all,
Chris
 

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674 Posts
get the 3600 dual disk it will do what you want and take you to 650hp when you get ready
 

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get the 3600 dual disk it will do what you want and take you to 650hp when you get ready
x2, I have a sbc 3600 6cb, its a great clutch, great street mannors and on the strip and you can still tow with it.
 

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Shiftin Fool
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nope not too much clutch at all. it sounds like you have the right idea. do it right the first time!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks everyone. Is there any benefit to going ahead and getting the 3850 springs instead of the 3600? I just want to make sure that I am making the right decision up front.

I really appreciate the help... you guys are a great resource
 

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My first clutch recommendation to everyone is a DD. then we go down from there if we need to.

John:thumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I would say that I may never get to the 6-700HP mark. I really bought it to be my tow truck for my house but I don't like doing things more than once. I build my race bikes for HP.. I wanna keep this one towing good. I see a better single or towing twins in the distant future but it will always be a towing truck and not a race truck. I will play with the boys on the highway and I would like to hook up to a sled once to say that I did... but I am of the mentality that if I am going to drag race or tow sleds then I just need to save and get a truck to do that. Purpose built is the way to go and the purpose of this truck is to maintain its ability to tow my house or whatever trailer I hook up to next.

I appreciate the info. Looks like I will be getting a 3600# ceramic dual disk with the hydraulic upgrade from either Valair or Southbend. Probably gonna be whatever I can get the best deal on when I need it. I would like to get it tomorrow but I can't. Gonna take a couple of weeks. I just need to have it installed before I go to Indianapolis in September for the MotoGP races.

unless I catch myself playing between now and then and have to get it sooner. You know that HP gig... it always bites you before you intend for it to. :)

Thanks again guys...
 

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call Dan at valair hes more then willing to discuss it with you you will get more transmission noise with any clutch that isnt oem.
 

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Shiftin Fool
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the new updated sprung hub design from SBC is even quieter than before!!! :thumbsup
 
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