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I'd be more inclined to fix the problem than masking it.



There's no reason a tire should turn on a wheel, unless lubed with the wrong stuff or run at really low pressures.

For example, somehow Hellcats, Demons, Corvettes and such, aren't having those issues, and that's with comparatively low tire pressures and more power.



OP, are those tires made in China by any chance, or maybe six years old and hard by now?


In my case i was thinking it was while i was breaking heavily. The truck weighs a lot and my traction was pretty good. But, i agree the tires should never move. I am pretty sure mine were or still are.
Yes, my fronts moved more and that axle is never powered.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I would like to fix the problem of i could but if it takes getting bead locks I will try masking it first to at least use up the two sets of tires I have... I put on 35k miles a yr so there not old. One set is Cooper at3 295/70 and other set on alloy wheels are nitto ridge grappler 305/65
 

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Thanks for all the thoughts! Yes they have been broken down many times because I get them road force balanced and the machine always makes you rotate them back because it senses where the heaviest part of the tire needs to be on the rim. And I watch every time and they just break the bead on both sides, rotate them back without any lube and rebalance them and then there smooth for awhile till they move. Just very confusing to me
Well then it sounds like you better never have to slam on your brakes either because the force placed on the front tires scrubbing across the ground with a couple tons shoving them downward is guaranteed to cause your tires to slip on the rim like porn star scene.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Mine are just the rears moving. If post a Pic but it always just says failed to upload
 

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I would like to fix the problem of i could but if it takes getting bead locks I will try masking it first to at least use up the two sets of tires I have... I put on 35k miles a yr so there not old. One set is Cooper at3 295/70 and other set on alloy wheels are nitto ridge grappler 305/65
Are the wheels wide enough for those tires? In other words, are the wheels within the approved rim width for the tires?
If the beads can't seat correctly, that could be part of the problem.
 

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Tires have mold release on them. If it's not removed before mounting this could be a problem.
Mark the tire and the rim to verify it's actually turning on the rim.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I marked them and they are definitely moving. And yes the 295 are within spec. The 305 are borderline
 

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It’s more common than you think. I had it happen on a 1966 Mini Cooper S. High power cars seeing occasional track or off-road use see this problem. The best solution for stock wheels is to media blast the mounting surface. Method wheels now adds ridges on their non bead lock wheels. Believe it or not hair spray also works just like mounting new grips on handlebars.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Thanks micromike. Id been trying to figure out how to add bumps or something to the bead without messing with weight and bead seal... Good to know about method wheels also
 

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I believe the Powerwagon rims have knurled beads to help with tire movement.
 

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Brake them down and wipe down both wheel and tire with acetone or lacquer thinner to remove any wax or lubricant, visible or not. Buff lightly each bead on both rim and tire with some fine 220 wand paper and remount. If you want to lube for mounting use old fashion soap and water and so some bleach. Both will dry with some tackiness to hold them in place. I think we sued to use Ivory flakes for the soap. Slimy wet but sticky when dry. Remember how clean rubber will stick to a smooth surface or bleach on dragster tires makes them stick to pavement.
 

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I would not use soap and water, except maybe as a last resort in a stubborn case...if nothing suitable was available.

Soap may dry when exposed to air, but there shouldn't be any if the beads seal correctly. Besides, water is one of the last things I'd want in a tire, so that's out, too.
There's a reason they make specific tire lube.

For a mechanical rim-to-tire traction enhancer, I've had some luck with using a center punch on the rim, making lots of little "craters".
Just be sure to make them on the vertical (outermost) part of the bead area, not the horizontal one where the air seal is.
 

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What brand tires. You said two different brands but di not mention which. Quality name brands? There is another thread on this forum about tires slipping on wheels. It involved cheap tires and the assumption in that thread, if I recall correctly, was it was a tire problem.
 

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I would have said this was not possible on a stock vehicle with stock wheels and good tires. But mine are slipping as well. Had them marked the last time I had them balanced and rotated. Guess what one front tire and one rear tire are no longer lined up. Rear tire is worse. But still. They are stock size Nitto Ridgegrapplers and I run 60psi in them.
 

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Are the wheels wide enough for those tires? In other words, are the wheels within the approved rim width for the tires?
If the beads can't seat correctly, that could be part of the problem.
I dont think this question was answered...
 

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I dont think this question was answered...
No, but I could obviously look up the approved rim widths...if I wanted to.
Although I'd have to verify the width of the stock wheels, too.

But this is getting interesting, now that others are also slip sliding away.
Since I always mount my tires with the dot at the valve stem, for balancing purposes, I can easily check if any of mine has moved.
Which I probably should do.
 

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I marked them and they are definitely moving. And yes the 295 are within spec. The 305 are borderline
They are either recommended or NOT recommended, there is no in between.
 

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I will get some marks on mine this week also.
 
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