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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Note: I didn't know if I should post this in non-powertrain or the performance section. If mods would like to move it to a better spot, be my guest.

It's been a while since I've been active on here as I've been busy in other aspects of life, however, that doesn't mean I haven't been doing anything on my truck – which, if you're not familiar with, is the one in this thread here:

https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/...sion/521369-htt-s300g-compressor-upgrade.html

Anyway, now that I've been happy with engine performance for quite a while, I decided to turn my attention to the brakes. As you all know, the factory brakes on these 94-99 Rams SUCK, especially with upgraded power levels and large wheels and tires. After starting with a plan for a front disc upgrade, this project inevtiably snowballed into a full conversion, which, at the end of it all, ended up leaving only the stock brake lines and combination valve still in use (and the brake pedal, I suppose). Literally EVERYTHING else has been upgraded.

Obviously, this is too big a project to sit down and type out in one post, so I will do it in segments as time permits. Specific topics will include:

-larger front pads, calipers and rotors
-rear drum to disc conversion
-vacuum to hydroboost conversion (which will be somewhat skimmed over since D89 has already done and excellent how-to on this topic, BUT I will have to get specific on certain issues that arose with my particular truck, as having two intercoolers limits real estate under my hood compared to others)
-conclusions/issues/final tweaks and tunes

All in all, the project took about 11 months to complete, and cost about $2000 (Canadian, with some money wasted as this was experimental and I changed my mind on a few things after making some purchases).

Until then, I'll leave you with a small preview from about halfway through the job; this photo was taken I believe sometime during last November.



See you all soon!
 

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I tried everything but a PacBrake finally gave me some whoa power on my '98.5
..An additional piston up front would have cost nothing and would have greatly improved stopping.
The bean counters won.
 

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I have f350 dual piston front brakes and rotors and the bigger wheel cylinders. Much better
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You Ford knuckle guys are living in the past.:wink2:

This truck stops like an M-Series. (An exaggeration maybe, but still...)
Stay tuned, fellas.
 
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What options are there for the 2wd guys? Mine goes through pads every 9 months and has for years. I would like to find a 2 piston caliper or an entire knuckle that would interchange and allow the installation of a bigger caliper and rotor. It's my biggest hang-up with this truck.
 
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You Ford knuckle guys are living in the past.<img src="http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/images/CumminsForum_2016/smilies/tango_face_wink.png" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />

This truck stops like an M-Series. (An exaggeration maybe, but still...)
Stay tuned, fellas.
My 4x4 always works 😉
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Eh, I’m not a fan of manual hubs. I hardly use my 4x4 these days anyway.

What options are there for the 2wd guys? Mine goes through pads every 9 months and has for years. I would like to find a 2 piston caliper or an entire knuckle that would interchange and allow the installation of a bigger caliper and rotor. It's my biggest hang-up with this truck.
I did research for this project for many months, however, I didn’t look at 2wd stuff so unfortunately I can’t help with that.

Do you have the wheel cylinder upgrade?
 

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I do have the cylinder upgrade. I don't want to hijack this thread with my problems though, just wondering if anyone knew of anything. I have the 8,800 lb single wheel axle truck and I put 1 ton cylinders on the rear, then I went to the Chevy cylinders and that helped but the brakes are still lacking. I tried EBC green stuff, ceramic, severe duty, and all sorts of pads. I run service calls in town, lots of stop and go. It's heck on my brakes. My tires are a bit larger than stock which doesn't help, but not a whole lot bigger.
 

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You Ford knuckle guys are living in the past.:wink2:
There is no comparison in stopping power of my 97 F350 CC 4X4 longbed with big tires and my CTD 2500 with stock size tires. The F350 feels like it could stop a runaway freight train. And it still has drum rears. If I didn't like the CTD so much as it is I would swap the 12V into the Ford.
Guess I'll just stay in the past (good place for me anyway, probably where I belong - after all I do own a 2nd gen.)

I'd be interested if anyone has an upgrade to dual piston front discs for the CTD.
 

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Sub'd.

I'll be stepping up to 35's soon, I don't need to to any brake work currently but I'll file this away for next time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
There is no comparison in stopping power of my 97 F350 CC 4X4 longbed with big tires and my CTD 2500 with stock size tires. The F350 feels like it could stop a runaway freight train. And it still has drum rears. If I didn't like the CTD so much as it is I would swap the 12V into the Ford.
Guess I'll just stay in the past (good place for me anyway, probably where I belong - after all I do own a 2nd gen.)

I'd be interested if anyone has an upgrade to dual piston front discs for the CTD.
This is why I upgraded my Dodge. The brakes sucked. And since it was a fully custom job, I chose the brakes that I wanted, not what would easily “fit.”

Let’s compare front rotor sizes. (There’s obviously more to the brake power story than this, but this is a good basic comparison)
According to Autozone.com:

OEM 94-99 Ram 2500 rotors
Dia: 317mm (12.48”)
Thickness: 39.1mm (1.54”)
Friction width: 2.25” (approximate)

97 Ford F-350
Dia: 329mm (12.95”)
Thickness: 30.1mm (1.19”)
Friction width: 2.28”

What I’m running:
Dia: 360mm (14.17”)
Thickness: 39mm (1.54”)
Friction width: 2.68”
@dauntless89
I think you’ll like this one. There’s a lot of labour involved, but I think you could handle it no problem.
And don’t worry so much about that price tag; that includes stuff I ended up not needing as well as non-brake related stuff that I changed just because it was apart. (Plus currency exchange)
 
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CTD2500 you left out the important measurement which is how long the pads are with the duel piston Ford brakes, I do think that is why I can stop so much better now since I swapped hubs. There is more surface area on the Ford pads..
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
CTD2500 you left out the important measurement which is how long the pads are with the duel piston Ford brakes, I do think that is why I can stop so much better now since I swapped hubs. There is more surface area on the Ford pads..
I specifically said in parentheses that there is more to the story than rotor dimensions, but yes, pad size is a factor.


Also, I never said the Ford upgrade isn’t worth it, or that it’s not better than the stock Dodge brakes. I think it’s a fine upgrade, but it wasn’t the route I wanted to go—mostly because I knew I could surpass it by a significant margin. The funny thing is, guys have come to this thread to chirp me about it without even knowing what I’ve built.

Put it this way: yesterday, I took the truck for its first long drive since the brake upgrade (3 hours round trip) and immediately after, I took my wife’s 2015 Jetta to pick her up at the airport. Usually, those smaller modern cars stop pretty good, but after getting used to driving the truck all morning, I felt like I had to STAND on the brake pedal to get the VW to stop the same. When a 6400lb truck can stop better than a little Jetta, I’d say that’s a pretty successful upgrade!

All that said, I do apologize for taking so long to get the write up underway; since I started this project so long ago, I’ve had to RE-research a lot of material—specs, prices, etc—that I thought I’d written down, but must have either thrown out or not written down at all and merely thought I did.
(Plus my wife was out of town all last week, so I was too busy looking after the house, daughter, working, etc.)
 

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It's all good CTD2500, I wasn't try'n to "chirp" you in any way. I just felt that was an important measurement when comparing. I had to go with the Ford deal so I could keep my 16 inch wheels as mine has an RV built on it and I cant change wheel size on my duels in the back..
 
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The funny thing is, guys have come to this thread to chirp me about it without even knowing what I’ve built.
No disrespect intended in my response. Only wanted to express my satisfaction with my F350 4X brakes so others that don't have your fabrication skills won't think that the Ford swap is a waste of time and effort.
 

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Larger rotors will make the biggest difference, as will the bigger f350 pads.
Not sure how 2 smaller pistons work compared to 1, but i think more pistons are required for equal force on the bigger pad.

My 98 stops great with all factory brakes. I wonder if they beefed up the master cylinder for 98.
 

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In terms of area, the F350 pistons have less than the stock Dodge setup and would be weaker if all else was equal. Caliper rigidity and point loading of the pads are almost sure to be different though between the two models.

Let's give the Ford knuckle swap thing a rest and let the man tell his story.
 

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So in on this.... A possibility if I decide to rebuild after mine had a heat flair up in engine compartment!!
 

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In terms of area, the F350 pistons have less than the stock Dodge setup and would be weaker if all else was equal. Caliper rigidity and point loading of the pads are almost sure to be different though between the two models.

Let's give the Ford knuckle swap thing a rest and let the man tell his story.
Weird. Ive always wondered why some cars have 4 or 6 pistons, some even clamp from both sides.

My girlfriends tacoma has 4; 2 on each side.
 

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As soon as you post the details, I'm doing it! That is the major item I dislike about my truck when pulling a load.
 
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