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Discussion Starter #1
2nd time getting my p2262 and other codes, so my turbo is going out 🙂 So I need some help here! Tuned by anarchy/5in tbe. Plan on staying stock fuel, but would like to go with a good turbo that has some nuts. I don’t tow everyday, just occasionally. I keep seeing this iron horn kit and was curious to what others think of it, especially for the price? And what size they went with and why considering there’s 364 up to 369. Not too big on 2nd gen swaps but I’m also not very informed on them, just know they’re a chunk more. I plan on buying arkund thanksgiving (hoping there’s some good Black Friday deals lol)
 

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Any 300 or 400 turbo will have plenty of power. 2nd gens are fun but pricey. If you’re on a budget I’d go with a 300 turbo like the one you listed. Good tuning goes a long way.

If it were me I’d go with that kit and a turbo from stainless.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Any 300 or 400 turbo will have plenty of power. 2nd gens are fun but pricey. If you’re on a budget I’d go with a 300 turbo like the one you listed. Good tuning goes a long way.

If it were me I’d go with that kit and a turbo from stainless.
Yeah I’m 1500ish seems nicer then 3500ish, and yes a 5.9 sounds good but idk about that much more. From what I’ve seen, a 364.5 is the highest for stock fuel, but I’ve seen a few people say go with a 366 even though bd recommends bigger injectors for that? Really now I’d just like input on a 364.5 vs 366. Being in lower elevation (2800ft) I’ll probably go with a 1.0ar on either one, unless I hear otherwise!
 

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When I ditch the stock vgt I'm going to go with a BD iron horn kit. Anarchy told me at my elevation (2500ft) and towing ~9000lbs about 35% of time with no plans of adding fuel, to go with the 366sxe. I'll be going with the 1.0 AR and am still debating on going with the 364.5sxe but in the off chance I add fuel I'll probably end up going with the 366 as apparently they don't spool much slower than the stock vgt on stock fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When I ditch the stock vgt I'm going to go with a BD iron horn kit. Anarchy told me at my elevation (2500ft) and towing ~9000lbs about 35% of time with no plans of adding fuel, to go with the 366sxe. I'll be going with the 1.0 AR and am still debating on going with the 364.5sxe but in the off chance I add fuel I'll probably end up going with the 366 as apparently they don't spool much slower than the stock vgt on stock fuel.
I was planning on callIng them tomorrow but sounds as if you did most of the work for me lol I tow a little less than that, but in the future That’ll change. Does the 364.5 light pretty quick?
 

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From my research and with the correct tune the 364.5 spools the same as the stock vgt off the line but maybe lights just a bit slower rolling on the throttle at highway speeds but isn't much different. The 366 lights a bit slower than stock ~100-150rpm from what I've been told but packs a wicked punch once lit. The 369 needs more fuel than stock and the 363 spools a bit quicker than stock and is almost a waste on a 6.7 Cummins as they flow so much air unless you are at extreme altitude and aren't trying to run max fuel the stock pump and injectors can fuel. There's a few guys with stock fuel with the 364.5 that wish they went up to the 366. I haven't found anyone who regrets going with the 366 even on stock fuel. If you want go ahead and call though and see if they give you different answers. Make sure to report back on your findings or what you end up going with.
 

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I went with Iron horn kit when my VGT went out.

I WAS looking at getting another VGT, performance type unit. Mainly cause I tow often and wanted exhaust brake ( EB for the remaining of this thread to save from typing exhaust brake, cause I really hate typing words, like Exhaust Brake. So to save time from typing Exhaust Brake I’ll shorten it to EB)

I discovered the iron horn kit. I like it because it uses factory intake system instead of the “ hot air “ intakes on 2nd gen conversations. I went with the 364.5 turbo. It pulls very hard, lots more force than factory. Low RPM OR slow speed driving is about the same as stock. But, on the highway, once the turbo spools and moves massive amounts of air, it’ll put you in the seat. Obviously not a race truck, but I’ve taken out an early 2000s vett, Ran side by side with a 5.0 Mustang ( 130plus), and dead even with a 392 charger. Impressive for 8000# beast. But it’s not for racing, my goal is Reliable, strong towing. And this truck will pull my ~#10,000 dump trailer with ease. Still feel it back there, but it it’ll reach speed like nothing, pull up mountain passes with little stress.

Maybe all aftermarket kits 2nd or 3rd gen are like that.? Not sure, admittedly this is my first time. I like the iron horn kit because it looks near stock. It’ll take original emissions equipment if wanted.


I added the BD exhaust brake ( EB for short as I really hate typing Exhaust Brake ). It operates equal to the original as far as buttons and settings. It seems much stronger than the original VGT EB ( (EB stands for Exhaust Brake ). On dirt roads in 4 low, the EB ( Exhaust Brake) causes the rear tires to skid.

If I could make a change, I think I would have selected the 366 turbo. And gotten the 5” EB ( Exhaust Brake).

I’d recommend getting a throttle booster too. Makes a huge drivability improvement when city driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I went with Iron horn kit when my VGT went out.

I WAS looking at getting another VGT, performance type unit. Mainly cause I tow often and wanted exhaust brake ( EB for the remaining of this thread to save from typing exhaust brake, cause I really hate typing words, like Exhaust Brake. So to save time from typing Exhaust Brake I’ll shorten it to EB)

I discovered the iron horn kit. I like it because it uses factory intake system instead of the “ hot air “ intakes on 2nd gen conversations. I went with the 364.5 turbo. It pulls very hard, lots more force than factory. Low RPM OR slow speed driving is about the same as stock. But, on the highway, once the turbo spools and moves massive amounts of air, it’ll put you in the seat. Obviously not a race truck, but I’ve taken out an early 2000s vett, Ran side by side with a 5.0 Mustang ( 130plus), and dead even with a 392 charger. Impressive for 8000# beast. But it’s not for racing, my goal is Reliable, strong towing. And this truck will pull my ~#10,000 dump trailer with ease. Still feel it back there, but it it’ll reach speed like nothing, pull up mountain passes with little stress.

Maybe all aftermarket kits 2nd or 3rd gen are like that.? Not sure, admittedly this is my first time. I like the iron horn kit because it looks near stock. It’ll take original emissions equipment if wanted.


I added the BD exhaust brake ( EB for short as I really hate typing Exhaust Brake ). It operates equal to the original as far as buttons and settings. It seems much stronger than the original VGT EB ( (EB stands for Exhaust Brake ). On dirt roads in 4 low, the EB ( Exhaust Brake) causes the rear tires to skid.

If I could make a change, I think I would have selected the 366 turbo. And gotten the 5” EB ( Exhaust Brake).

I’d recommend getting a throttle booster too. Makes a huge drivability improvement when city driving.
A 392?? Man that makes me smile on what I’ll be getting myself into.. the EB worth it then? Because it is like $300 right? The factory eb hasn’t ever been that great for me so I was iffy. Also I’ve heard so many back and forth on throttle boosters. People say when you tune that does the throttle booster, therefore not needed?
 

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The EB cost $1400 or something if I recall. If money no issue and you tow often you may want to look at pac Brake is supposed to be a better solution.

I bought a pedal commander a few years back. Best modification I’ve done, including the turbo swap. It totally changes the way the truck drives. Mainly in city type driving, it accelerates like a car. It really only improves city stop n go type driving. Just the pedal commander made truck drive like a light car. It’s how the truck should have driven from the factory.

Now that I’ve deleted n tuned, I can say the throttle booster alone feels like a tune n deleted truck when city driving. I removed the throttle booster after I tuned n deleted, and truck basically drove the same in city driving (stop n go stuff). I later reinstalled the booster, and the truck now drives like a beast when city driving.

I contacted my tuner to see if they could improve throttle response. They advised me to buy and use a throttle booster, even with a tune.


Honestly, when I first bought the booster, I was ready to return it with in a week. I was convinced there was no way a throttle booster would make a difference. I was figuring I could just press the throttle further or faster to get same results. But, the booster really works different. It NOT the same as pressing harder. Think of an older car where you have a kick down cable on the transmission. On those cars you can tighten that cable and get an improvement. The booster has that effect.

I highly recommend any throttle booster for Cummins trucks, stock, tuned, deleted and so on. Again, honestly best Single modification I’ve done to this truck, INCLUDING the iron horn kit. Like I said, stop n go driving is about the same with a deleted n tuned with turbo. If I only did stop n go driving and could have “ throttle booster “ OR “ tune n delete “. I’d pick the throttle booster. Obviously the iron horn kit is on a whole new level on open roads.
 

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I'm just joining into this thread as I too am looking at the iron horn kits. The shop I've been speaking to has recommended the 366/80 0.91 AR for my truck that is stock apart from deletes and tunes. This will be for a truck that doesn't tow super often, but when it does its 10k+ behind the truck. Stock fuel system and no real plans to go fro crazy power. Just aiming for a truck that's reliable and fun to run around town in
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The EB cost $1400 or something if I recall. If money no issue and you tow often you may want to look at pac Brake is supposed to be a better solution.

I bought a pedal commander a few years back. Best modification I’ve done, including the turbo swap. It totally changes the way the truck drives. Mainly in city type driving, it accelerates like a car. It really only improves city stop n go type driving. Just the pedal commander made truck drive like a light car. It’s how the truck should have driven from the factory.

Now that I’ve deleted n tuned, I can say the throttle booster alone feels like a tune n deleted truck when city driving. I removed the throttle booster after I tuned n deleted, and truck basically drove the same in city driving (stop n go stuff). I later reinstalled the booster, and the truck now drives like a beast when city driving.

I contacted my tuner to see if they could improve throttle response. They advised me to buy and use a throttle booster, even with a tune.


Honestly, when I first bought the booster, I was ready to return it with in a week. I was convinced there was no way a throttle booster would make a difference. I was figuring I could just press the throttle further or faster to get same results. But, the booster really works different. It NOT the same as pressing harder. Think of an older car where you have a kick down cable on the transmission. On those cars you can tighten that cable and get an improvement. The booster has that effect.

I highly recommend any throttle booster for Cummins trucks, stock, tuned, deleted and so on. Again, honestly best Single modification I’ve done to this truck, INCLUDING the iron horn kit. Like I said, stop n go driving is about the same with a deleted n tuned with turbo. If I only did stop n go driving and could have “ throttle booster “ OR “ tune n delete “. I’d pick the throttle booster. Obviously the iron horn kit is on a whole new level on open roads.
may have to look into that then.. i still need to get my gauges as i’ve been lagging on it (decided to go with autometer rather than a monitor because of the looks & accuracy) so after i get those i may have to look into this throttle booster. how long have you had your iron horn kit? did your mpg go up at all or did it drop a lot? i drive pretty good as i’m always watching my mpg but i do occasionally let her roar lol also does anyone know if i should bite the bullet now or maybe wait and see if black friday will have any good discounts on this kit? i just don’t know how much life the vgt has left
 

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I'm just joining into this thread as I too am looking at the iron horn kits. The shop I've been speaking to has recommended the 366/80 0.91 AR for my truck that is stock apart from deletes and tunes. This will be for a truck that doesn't tow super often, but when it does its 10k+ behind the truck. Stock fuel system and no real plans to go fro crazy power. Just aiming for a truck that's reliable and fun to run around town in
we’re in the same boat, nothing insane but still fun. why are you going .91 ?
 

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we’re in the same boat, nothing insane but still fun. why are you going .91 ?
Drivability, The .91 will give me quicker spool up compared to the 1.0.

Now if I'm wrong in my understanding of that, or someone can explain to me which would be better then please chime in
 

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we’re in the same boat, nothing insane but still fun. why are you going .91 ?
Drivability, The .91 will give me quicker spool up compared to the 1.0.

Now if I'm wrong in my understanding of that, or someone can explain to me which would be better then please chime in
from what i understand, you are right, but if you’re in lower elevation then the 1.0 seems to be a better choice from what i’ve read and seen, they say the 366 1.0 spools a lil slower than the vgt does, but when it lights you’re gone
 

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from what i understand, you are right, but if you’re in lower elevation then the 1.0 seems to be a better choice from what i’ve read and seen, they say the 366 1.0 spools a lil slower than the vgt does, but when it lights you’re gone
I am definitely in lower elevation (Only ~1500ft). What makes the 1.0 better in the lower elevation? Is it just that there is enough dense air to feed the engine?
 

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from what i understand, you are right, but if you’re in lower elevation then the 1.0 seems to be a better choice from what i’ve read and seen, they say the 366 1.0 spools a lil slower than the vgt does, but when it lights you’re gone
I am definitely in lower elevation (Only ~1500ft). What makes the 1.0 better in the lower elevation? Is it just that there is enough dense air to feed the engine?
exactly. i think you’d be way better off with the 1.0
 

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exactly. i think you’d be way better off with the 1.0
I've sent BD an email asking about their recommendations on AR but have yet to hear a reply

I was told by the shop that the 0.91 would be better for stock fuel. I know BD lists the s366/80 1.0 as the point where you probably want to get into larger injectors. Definitely don't wanna drop a good chunk of change on a poorly sized turbo lol
 

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exactly. i think you’d be way better off with the 1.0
I've sent BD an email asking about their recommendations on AR but have yet to hear a reply

I was told by the shop that the 0.91 would be better for stock fuel. I know BD lists the s366/80 1.0 as the point where you probably want to get into larger injectors. Definitely don't wanna drop a good chunk of change on a poorly sized turbo lol
be sure to inform on what they say, would love to hear.
 

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Here's what they said... kinda surprised by their answer actually.

Buttttttt I got this email a few hours after I gave the shop the go ahead to order everything so I'll be having the s366/80 0.91AR and Breakout Tuning with CSP5 switch installed early next week. I should get the truck back by Wednesday so I will make sure to update here on how it is
 

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I have the S366 1.0 AR on stock fuel and wish I went with .91 or maybe even an S364. Unless you like living in the upper RPM range its a waste. I've gotten to the point that I manually shift it merging onto the freeway and cruising around to limit smoke output.
 
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