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Discussion Starter #1
what kind do you have? How much was the cost? Are you happy with it? Filter mount location, any pics? How did you run the return line?

Thanks all for your time. Steve
 

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Amsoil... around 300.00 I think... Yes... Wheel well of the passenger side front tire behind the fender liner return line is run back into the oil fill cap
 

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we build our own , it is fun , cheaper and have learned a lot. all of our large trucks come with bypass filters and most of our heavy equipment does also the 04.5 up need bypass filtration because of the soot . for horizontal mount i like the frame near the cab - bed area for vertical use one of the ribs in this same area use hydraulic hose and a amsoil filler cap for return and a 0.06 to a 0.075 orifice for restriction amsoil 110 , luberfiner 9750 , fleetguard , cat and detroit are some of the filters we have used the frantz is the best but clogs to fast on any bypass you run them until they clog up before changing the dirtier they are the better they filter if you use a large one like the luberfiner at oil change just pour the oil out of it and screw it back on you can feel the filter after running if it is warm it is still working
 

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i know a couple people that tapped the oil pan, pain in the butt. I work for vortech superchargers, i've been tapping oil pans for a long time. The oil cap that amsoil has is awesome, doesn't look bad at all. Everyone always asks what it is. Makes the install quick and clean. Trust me, its more of a hassle and you can get shavings in the pan if you don't know what your doing.
 

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DORKWEED has his return line in the side of his oil pan if I am not mistaken.
 

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DORKWEED has his return line in the side of his oil pan if I am not mistaken.

This is true!!!:thumbsup If you call about 10-15 minutes of time to do it (tapping the pan) a pain in the butt, so be it!!! The main advantage being the bypass drains upon engine shutdown. I only get a few drops when I change TP, and that's only if I change out the TP within about 30 minutes of shutdown. After that, no drips at all!!! 40,000 miles without an oil change and counting!!!:thumbsup:hyper::beer And that's on WallyWorld SuperTech 15W 40 oil!!!:T: Wanna see my oil analysis????:T::popcorn:
 

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Heres mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
This is true!!!:thumbsup If you call about 10-15 minutes of time to do it (tapping the pan) a pain in the butt, so be it!!! The main advantage being the bypass drains upon engine shutdown. I only get a few drops when I change TP, and that's only if I change out the TP within about 30 minutes of shutdown. After that, no drips at all!!! 40,000 miles without an oil change and counting!!!:thumbsup:hyper::beer And that's on WallyWorld SuperTech 15W 40 oil!!!:T: Wanna see my oil analysis????:T::popcorn:
will you please give me a quick how to about tapping the oil pan
thanks for your time
 

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I got a dualbypass from amsoil .But been trying to figure out where to mount it where it will be out of the way.
 

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40,000 miles without an oil change and counting!!!:thumbsup:hyper::beer And that's on WallyWorld SuperTech 15W 40 oil!!!:T: Wanna see my oil analysis????:T::popcorn:
You might as well post it up. If it does the job and does it very well - 40K is VERY well - no sense keeping it secret. :beer better add a disclaimer though: don't try this without a bypass... :lol3:
 

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will you please give me a quick how to about tapping the oil pan
thanks for your time

Take a very sharp tapered punch and a BFH and start swinging until you get a hole started through the metal of the pan. Then stick a piece of wire in the hole to see if there's anything directly behind where you punched the hole. I actually called Cummins and talked to a tech about the innerds of the pan. He said there's nothing in there to hit unless you're doing it up near the bottom of the block. OK, then drive the tapered punch into the pan until a 5/16 bolt will fit into the opening. Then take the STHB (Self Tapping Hollow Bolt) and screw that into the hole. The STHB has a rubber sealing gasket/washer on it, but I added a bit of RTV anyway. Once that bad boy is threaded onto the pan, it's not gonna come out unless you take it out. You have to give it some elbow to get it started. After that, attach your fittings and oil return line. Shazam!!! If you're good with a hammer, it's not hard!!:thumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Take a very sharp tapered punch and a BFH and start swinging until you get a hole started through the metal of the pan. Then stick a piece of wire in the hole to see if there's anything directly behind where you punched the hole. I actually called Cummins and talked to a tech about the innerds of the pan. He said there's nothing in there to hit unless you're doing it up near the bottom of the block. OK, then drive the tapered punch into the pan until a 5/16 bolt will fit into the opening. Then take the STHB (Self Tapping Hollow Bolt) and screw that into the hole. The STHB has a rubber sealing gasket/washer on it, but I added a bit of RTV anyway. Once that bad boy is threaded onto the pan, it's not gonna come out unless you take it out. You have to give it some elbow to get it started. After that, attach your fittings and oil return line. Shazam!!! If you're good with a hammer, it's not hard!!:thumbsup
Thanks very much for you time, I think I will try it.
 

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Here is my Frantz filter install. off the alt. and return with air chuck fitting to the new oil cap. Ed



Oh they look better new but I got mine for $2 at a garage sale several years ago.
 

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Thanks very much for you time, I think I will try it.

Let me know how it goes!!!:thumbsup:beer Most of the members here are "chicken" to tap the pan. But it makes for a nice, clean filter changer out!!!! Not hardly any drips here!!!:hyper:
 
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