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Is the vp44 decently reliable if it was put on brand new with a brand new fass and fed 14psi all the time or a little more and nothing less?
Extremely reliable, IMHO the reliability data on the VP44 still seems to get skewed with bad data from 20 years ago when lift pumps were failing left right and center.
I had 200K miles on my properly fed VP44. Not one issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Extremely reliable, IMHO the reliability data on the VP44 still seems to get skewed with bad data from 20 years ago when lift pumps were failing left right and center.
I had 200K miles on my properly fed VP44. Not one issue.
That makes me feel a lot better that was one reason I was thinking of switching besides the awful rust and steering of my dodge.
 

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That makes me feel a lot better that was one reason I was thinking of switching besides the awful rust and steering of my dodge.
The steering is always going to suck.
I dumped thousands into the front end of my 2nd gen, Carli suspension, T steering, control arms, track bar, Borgeson box and shaft.
I was still left with truck that wandered down the highway needing constant steering corrections.
 
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
The steering is always going to suck.
I dumped thousands into the front end of my 2nd gen, Carli suspension, T steering, control arms, track bar, Borgeson box and shaft.
I was still left with truck that wandered down the highway needing constant steering corrections.
Yeah I hate it I’ve spent a lot of money too and nothing has fixed it. Just don’t know how I feel about this lly it’s a solid truck for looks being the four door fully loaded with leather and from Arizona no rust but how does the engine compare to my 24v cummins and manual transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I would do the switch at long as the truck is in good condition and has been maintained.

They're phenomenal trucks.
I went from a 2nd gen to a Tacoma to an 04.5 LLY.
I bought it with around 350,000km and took it to nearly 500K.

I had to do one water pump, 2 front hubs, brakes, and ball joints.

At around 485,000km the factory injectors began to fail starting with #7.

The cab is really nice. Orders of magnitude better than 3rd gen rams. 4 full size doors and the rear seats fold flat.

They get great mileage too, I got better mpg than my 2nd gen.

The Allison will never leave you stranded either. Shifts are crisp and on time. No Chrysler slush box.

They handle superb on the highway, no mushy steering, no wandering. IF maintained, the front ends track straight alot better than the POS Chrysler set-up.
They're also pretty quiet on the highway too, which I like on long drives.

The "hard to work on" is pretty subjective. I'm not pulling wrenches every weekend, but even the injectors were not that bad to replace.

Headgasket is probably the most labor intensive major repair when compared to a Cummins.

I've owned both platforms for >5 years each and if I could get back into a clean 01-07 Duramax for a decent price I would do it in a heart beat.

I would run an injector balance test. The injectors are a lot easier to replace on the LLY, they do not require valve cover removal.
This makes me want the lly I know this is a cummins forum so people will be biased but I honestly like both truck and are torn the lly sounds like a good truck with a decent engine where the dodge is a crap truck with a amazing engine and a gold tranny being that’s it’s a 5 speed all rebuilt with 5th gear nut
 

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Anything to do with Duramax repairs is usually 2-3x Cummins repairs. Still always hit and miss. Extremely well looked after trucks sometimes crap out sooner that horribly abused trucks.
 
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Find your self a blown up rust free Ford and put in your running gear, that would be my ideal. The vp44 is nothing to worry about, provided you already have a solid lift pump.

The dodge vs chevy thing could go on forever.. just know your taking a gamble, at least you already know what kind of mess your truck is in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Find your self a blown up rust free Ford and put in your running gear, that would be my ideal. The vp44 is nothing to worry about, provided you already have a solid lift pump.

The dodge vs chevy thing could go on forever.. just know your taking a gamble, at least you already know what kind of mess your truck is in.
Yeah I’m just scared I’m my cummins will last over 300k it has no blow by or problems and what not I’ve heard these engines go forever but mine previous to me buying three years ago hauled a fifth wheel with water meth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
The resale value for these 2nd gens just seem like crap compared to a duramax.
 
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Something is not adding up here!
Dude wants the truck to pull with and because they are easy to work on. I don’t mine working on my own stuff even if it’s takes longer because that’s what I like to do.
 

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Dude wants the truck to pull with and because they are easy to work on. I don’t mine working on my own stuff even if it’s takes longer because that’s what I like to do.
You would think differently after working on a duramax. Cummins is way easier to work on.
 

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I like the fummins idea.

My FIL has a lly. I drove it from Quebec City to here with his little fifth wheel in tow.
I was actually pretty happy with it. I can see why people like them.
 

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Sounds like you need to swap your drive train over to another truck.
 
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It’s always a crapshoot with a 200,000 mile truck but would an extended warranty be an option… May be too expensive.
Five of my camping friends bought GM diesels in 05. One of them had so much trouble with his he had to get rid of it but as far as I know the others are doing fine with just the normal expected repairs.
I still camp with one of the guys and he’s had problems with blowing hoses and normal things like that. My cousin just bought an 05 last year to pull his three horse trailer from Montana to Southern Arizona every year and it has been good.
 

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I agree with the body swap onto your drivetrain idea. I am a Duramax guy with a 1st gen, but I won't hesitate to tell you the cummins is WAY easier to work on, and much cheaper to fix. Tearing apart an LB7 right now for my C10 Dmax swap, and GM was idiotic on the placement of some bolts. Bout have to be a contortionist to work on the thing, and I have nothing on the chassis other than the cab.

There definitely seems to be something fishy though, there is no reason he should be trying to straight up downgrade that much. The hauling isn't that much different to warrant that. Rust free cateyes are worth their weight in gold right now, honestly surprised he's not trying to sell it for 20k.
 
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Extended warranties, IMHO, are an utter scam. There’s so much not covered and so many exclusions that it might as well be life insurance or a lottery ticket: you’re probably not gonna win, and even if you do they’re gonna scrutinize everything to find a way to not pay you.

A few of them I’ve looked into have so many exclusions and maintenance requirements and ancillary replacement requirements (ie, if the water pump goes out, they’re not covering the water pump unless you pay for a new radiator, thermostat, hoses, and heater core). The one Nissan tried to sell for my wife’s car when the factory warranty expired had a specific section about acceptable used parts like heads, exhaust manifolds, fuel pumps, “certified” used (not reman) injectors, suspension, steering components, etc. They were cool with using junkyard parts for warranty work. Shady doesn’t even begin to describe it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I agree with the body swap onto your drivetrain idea. I am a Duramax guy with a 1st gen, but I won't hesitate to tell you the cummins is WAY easier to work on, and much cheaper to fix. Tearing apart an LB7 right now for my C10 Dmax swap, and GM was idiotic on the placement of some bolts. Bout have to be a contortionist to work on the thing, and I have nothing on the chassis other than the cab.

There definitely seems to be something fishy though, there is no reason he should be trying to straight up downgrade that much. The hauling isn't that much different to warrant that. Rust free cateyes are worth their weight in gold right now, honestly surprised he's not trying to sell it for 20k.
Yeah I get that it seems to good to be true but it’s been looked over top to bottom with nothing wrong no blow by no signs of head gasket being bad doesn’t use oil or coolant doesn’t leak a single drop the transmission doesn’t slip. So what else could be fishy about it that I should look for?
 

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It has studs because it already spit out 1 head gasket, that's really the only problem with a LLY, until you start romping on them. Once the mod process starts all bets are off.
 
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