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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im looking at an 08. again, its between this and a modded duramax. my brother is buying my duramax so im looking for a replacement. has a
S&B cold air intake.4 inch exhaust with all deletes. H&S XRT PRO Tuner. and exhaust break. auto. dont know much about the 6.7 cause im a chevy guy. i know the old auto trans are garbage. anything to look for in these trucks? has 122k on it. TN truck so no rust. 3rd owner.
 

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i am not smart on the newer stuff but, the guide lines are.

how has the truck been driven. what pwr level was he running stock, tow, street

does it have any blow by? a simple test undo the oil cap with engine running and place it upside down, if it moves a lot, it does have a good amount of blow by

the autos from what i read are some what better compared to older models.
if your dead set on this truck go with efi live as a programmer from what i hear they can make some great tunes, just for your truck
 

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Check the front axle ball joins and U joints.
Shift from park into drive with your foot hard on the brake, if it makes a clunk sounds than either drive-line U joints or T case could use a rebuild. (Mines been doing this since I bought it. Havent seen the need to fix/repair it tho, doesnt seem to cause any problems.)

Im sure someone other people have some more input. There has been a couple threads like this in the past. Look around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i was just wondering about motor wise, how reliable they are etc. like with the LB7 duramax, you gotta worry about injectors and HG. didnt know if the 6.7 had anything like that. and ya i will go to EFI if i get it. but for the mean time, and how can you even check the blow by? diesels shake so much itll vibrate right off the cap?
 

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same with cummins, how does the oil, and raidatior (spelling) smell, also another way i am not sure if this works but if the oil cap has a milky substance thats another good indication (all has to do with blown head gasket

you can turn the oil cap upside down.

link should work, its an 06 5.9
 

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i was just wondering about motor wise, how reliable they are etc. like with the LB7 duramax, you gotta worry about injectors and HG. didnt know if the 6.7 had anything like that. and ya i will go to EFI if i get it. but for the mean time, and how can you even check the blow by? diesels shake so much itll vibrate right off the cap?
I suppose you could have problems with just about anything now days. sounds like most of the deletes are taken care of so that's an engine saver there. My 08 has been very very good to me. I have over 870,000 miles, & 70% of that is towing 9k-16k trailers, hills and mountains and extreme temperatures. All my issues have been minor and not unexpected. If you get the truck safe some $$$ and time and do a CCV filter delete, there was a good link to that on this forum somewhere. If it has a lot of vibration, it may be time for a new balance wheel. The rubber in the OEM is most likely dry-rotted. I like the FluidMaster.

2008 6.7, 68RFE auto (replaced with Jasper reman) at 607,000 miles, 3500 dually, 2 wheel drive DPF delete, EGR & cooler delete, CCV filter delete, turbo silencer removed, also removed vent line from turbo to crank case, still running stock air box and intake H&S tuner set Mild. 30 day average. 26mpg @ 58mph
 

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How does the truck shift.
The shifting is smooth as silk. However as I have made a previous post tonight, I am having a issue with the Jasper trany, that I had installed in February, that only has 80,000 miles on it. When I first start it for the day, it will be locked in 4th gear. I have to shut it off and restart then it is fine all day. Seams like it don't like to set more than 7 hours :hehe: The trany man is to look at it Monday. It is still under warranty. Most likely a solenoid sticking, or pump issue.
 

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The tranny isn't made to withstand more than stock hp so if the tuner was cranked up or if you want extra power I would look for a g56 and upgrade the clutch or be prepared to buy a built auto. I'm putting a revmax tranny in soon.
 

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The shifting is smooth as silk. However as I have made a previous post tonight, I am having a issue with the Jasper trany, that I had installed in February, that only has 80,000 miles on it. When I first start it for the day, it will be locked in 4th gear. I have to shut it off and restart then it is fine all day. Seams like it don't like to set more than 7 hours :hehe: The trany man is to look at it Monday. It is still under warranty. Most likely a solenoid sticking, or pump issue.
off topic, but i have been needing to take mine in but they wont believe me on whats causing the issue and they said the computer idiot light will alert me when it gets hot (its set to high form factory). they want to test the tps (after i had my shop hook it up to the scanner) some how i keep on spending more money on other things and i screwed myself out of buying the great parts.

your sounds like it could be causing by a solenoid. i was relating that question to the op but hey all ideas are great, to help him out.

back to the op, find out whats the tuner was ran on or was it left on stock just for the purpose of deletes and if you do replace the trans g56 manual is great but you have the swapping cost in that also, so i say get a revmax 550. both should work out to be the same depending on what the shop charges
 

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The tranny isn't made to withstand more than stock hp so if the tuner was cranked up or if you want extra power I would look for a g56 and upgrade the clutch or be prepared to buy a built auto. I'm putting a revmax tranny in soon.
I just run a mild tune. Mainly got the tune to do deletes and read codes. I wish I had known about Revmax before I put in this Jasper. To bad they don't advertise. I wanted an ATS but didn't want to drop the CASH.
 
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