Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner
21 - 40 of 43 Posts

·
Registered
Fixing up an 06 Cummins 2500 Megacab
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Man have these last few days been kicking my ass! Good news though, the truck should be running tomorrow, I need to catch up on the updates but I have been slacking on taking pictures the last few days with a few of the issue I ran into.

FINALLY got the transmission done - I completely forgot to install the wire mounting bracket and dipstick when I mounted it so those bolts got broken and the stuff got installed. Harness ran and man it sure does look sexy!





Got the trans cooler lines done as well, added some clamps to prevent rubbing. The plan down the road is add a Mishimotor cooler, delete the heater core and run some braided lines.







When you are slipping the T/C bolts in have a marker handy and number the T/C at every bolt. When you go to torque them all up it makes it a hell of a lot faster since you don't have to feel for the bolts as you go around the second time!



Took me two days to get the front/rear diff fluids and seals changed, the front was largely a headache because the pinion nut had backed off. I spent way more than I anticipated for this job but it is now down and hopefully the seals hold up for many miles to come! I ended up going to a shop here in San Antonio called Nagolitas Gear/Transmission service Co. they had everything I needed at what seemed like a decent price.











Starting with the rear diff. Drain the fluid, peen the Yoke, Nut and Pinion shaft as well as putting a paint marker line and count the threads. I tried removing the nut with 3/4" set with ZERO success, so a trip to Home Depot solved that issue with a 1/2" Milwaukee impact. This sucker has 1400 ft/lbs of breaking force, it broke the nut in about 3 taps.









Used my Proto puller to remove the yoke although a cheap puller from Harbor Freight or the likes will work just fine! The seals on the other hand, my puller has several attachments and rather than using pry bars and screw drivers I used the puller as well.





I'll add some more in the morning. Gonna grab a bite to eat and hit the sack!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,687 Posts
The mark and prey method is a bit sketchy for the pinion nut. You really should measure the running torque with the axles out, or you'll potentially have issues in the future. The FSM specifies these torques.

Also, there is no additive necessary for these diffs. No limited slip additive.Straight 75-90 gear oil.
 

·
Registered
Fixing up an 06 Cummins 2500 Megacab
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
The mark and prey method is a bit sketchy for the pinion nut. You really should measure the running torque with the axles out, or you'll potentially have issues in the future. The FSM specifies these torques.

Also, there is no additive necessary for these diffs. No limited slip additive.Straight 75-90 gear oil.
Yeah had I done a little more due diligence I would of gotten the proper tools and waited to so the seals. No way I'm picking up the rear end on my sloped driveway.

I'll likely end up taking it into a shop down the road and have them go through both and set the diffs properly. Especially with the front pinion nut being backed off.

I'm not sure why there would be no additive. I have limited slip in the rear. Both bottles went in and topped her off. This was per the shop I went to, they do it for a living so I trusted them. Could of been fluff but eh 🤷 it's done until next time. Personally I would of ran Valvoline synthetic but the axle guy told me to stay away from it in our area, the heat we get + synthetic he said thins too much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,687 Posts
Yeah had I done a little more due diligence I would of gotten the proper tools and waited to so the seals. No way I'm picking up the rear end on my sloped driveway.

I'll likely end up taking it into a shop down the road and have them go through both and set the diffs properly. Especially with the front pinion nut being backed off.

I'm not sure why there would be no additive. I have limited slip in the rear. Both bottles went in and topped her off. This was per the shop I went to, they do it for a living so I trusted them. Could of been fluff but eh 🤷 it's done until next time. Personally I would of ran Valvoline synthetic but the axle guy told me to stay away from it in our area, the heat we get + synthetic he said thins too much.
Proper way to do it is with axles out, no need to pick up the rear end but you gotta put her on jack stands at least.

The AAM axles do not require limited slip additive. There are lots of threads on this. If the shop is trying to tell you they do, I would run from that shop as they don't have a clue.
 

·
Registered
Fixing up an 06 Cummins 2500 Megacab
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Proper way to do it is with axles out, no need to pick up the rear end but you gotta put her on jack stands at least.

The AAM axles do not require limited slip additive. There are lots of threads on this. If the shop is trying to tell you they do, I would run from that shop as they don't have a clue.
Wait a second, how do I put her on jack stands without picking it up? Lol what sort of sorcery is this that I am not skilled in 🤣

Trust me - I realize I screwed up doing the axles. It was a hellish two days of feeling like I dug myself into a hole. Nobody's fault but my own though because all the information is in the FSM and plenty to be found here as well. Next time I'll be better prepared though. I read up on the limited slip prior to the change and I found it to be about 50/50 on the additive. General consensus was don't add it unless you get chatter, which in towing applications seems common. Won't hurt anything and next time I may go for synthetic instead and only add if needed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,687 Posts
Wait a second, how do I put her on jack stands without picking it up? Lol what sort of sorcery is this that I am not skilled in 🤣
Sorcery is the answer! Haha.
Not sure what I was thinking. I think I had it going in my brain somewhere that you had access to a jack... Or I just decided to stop thinking, that's entirely possible too
 
  • Haha
Reactions: override

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,230 Posts
The reason no limited slip additive is needed is that there are no clutches in the carrier. There are heical cut spur gears that provide the limited slip function. The additive wont hurt anything, but not needed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,230 Posts
This is similar to how it works and is setup.

 

·
Registered
Fixing up an 06 Cummins 2500 Megacab
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
Been a busy past few days but I need to play catch up so I'll get to that later. Picking up where I left off I cleaned up all the parts for the new seals to go back in.

Rear Yoke seals removed, cleaned and wire brushed, got as much old sealant off as possible. I wish I had access to a bead blaster!









Lubed up the new yoke seal, slipped it on and applied some new thread sealant.









Cleaned up the pinion and installed new seal. Nut going back on with a bead of red threadlock for good measure and then torqued down to peened marks.









Moving on to the fluid end - Pull cover and clean as well as cleaning out differential. Torque cover bolts and fill with about 3.8 qts of fluid if memory serves me correct.







 

·
Registered
Fixing up an 06 Cummins 2500 Megacab
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Now the front is where all of this really went south! Following the same routine as the rear I peaned, counted threads and marked everything.







Yoke off, seals off and cleaned up.









New yoke seal back on, thread sealant on splines and pinion seal installed.







When I went to put it all back together the nut went 1.5 turns PAST where it was marked just to bottom out on the yoke. So the sumb*tch was backed off - This is where my day turned long, two trips to the parts store and a bunch of reading to get a good baseline to put her back together. Picked up a new nut and it was just a tad larger than my axle socket so I took the belt sander to it and removed maybe a mm total of outer hex material. As well I got an in/lbs beam torque wrench so I could set the preload to a best guess.



Several items of information I found searching suggested these are typically set around 22-23 in/lbs with brake hubs removed and wheels/axles still on; account for new seals and 27-28 in/lbs will be my pre load. At some point down the road I plan to take the truck to a gear shop and just have both front/rear gone through. This is a video if you click it....



Now that I have that stress nipped in the bud I moved on to cleaning up the cover, diff and getting her filled back up. I missed a few pics here but you get the routine.





I post up some more over coffee tomorrow morning :)
 

·
Registered
Fixing up an 06 Cummins 2500 Megacab
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Morning Everyone :)

Time to get the TIMP engine bay harness done - This sucker took me about 8 hours to go through, clean up, wrap with Tessa tape, electrical tape and then finally re-loom. You will need 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4 loom to do this job.

Stripping it down one section at a time and adding Tessa tape to mark all the sections where wires split off on their own.



Removed the mounting tray, cleaned up and re-wrapped. All bare wires got Tessa treatment and then a heafty dose of electric tape to secure to tray back on.



New loom installed and all plug cleaned with contact cleaner.



Didn't get pictures but I did the battery wires next - Loomed them all. Installed the new aluminum battery terminals as well and then installed everything into truck.







AFE Intake cleaned up, cleaned the filter that morning and threw it in the oven on 170 for a few hours to speed up the drying.



Getting closer to having this sucker started! I still need to drop the transmission pan. Changed the filter, cleaned up the pan and made sure the valve body looked good. New gasket and back on she went. Found a thread that had been repair with a heli-coil.









Went to a hydraulic shop and got the fittings needed to plumb this into the return line for the transmission. I used it while filling the trans, overfilled a bit and then shut down and removed. Topped off trans from fluid lost and everything was good!



I changed the oil filter, fuel filter and topped up with Valvoline Blue 15w-40. The fuel filter screwed me over, somehow between changing it and starting the truck the yellow drain valve got opened and let a lot of fuel out. I didn't catch it until after I tried starting the truck and boy did she run rough! It was not fun fighting that while trying to get the transmission topped off. All in all it took me about 4 hours to work all the air out of the system.

Here is a video of the first attempt to start it - click pic to open video.


The next day me and the ole' lady took it for a test drive to my parents camp, BBQ'd and shot the sh*t for awhile and then headed back home.



Coming up next - Questions I have, T.Case shifter troubleshooting, A/C and Heater woes and Driveline vibrations.
 

·
Registered
Fixing up an 06 Cummins 2500 Megacab
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
I've got Questions and need some answers/help!!!

- I have a "clunk" that sounds like something is loose and banging in the back seat (TSB on rear shocks maybe?). I'll get a video of the noise.

  • This turned out to be the rear passenger side cab mount. Bolt was missing, pulled the other side and matched it at Quality Fasteners.

- Anything from 70 mph to 80mph ONLY WHILE ACCELERATING (maybe higher but I have not gone that fast yet) I get a horrible moan/vibration that echo's in the rear of the cab. I think the rear two piece and carrier bearing is the culprit. When I had the drive line off the u joints were stiff, carrier didn't seem to have too much play in it though. Needless to say I kept it under 70 for the trip to Houston. I'll be looking into getting a one piece here at a shop in San Antonio - $895 for a 5" Aluminum 1480. I will also get a video of this noise as well.

- HVAC is in need of some TLC. I flushed the heater core and managed to get heat going on Passenger side. The A/C on the other hand has a leak in the system, I recharged it from 30 to about 50 the other day. Compressor started cycling about every 4 seconds and slowly the AC got warmer and warmer and the compressor stopped cycling again. Checked it next day and it was back down to 30-35, recharged to about 45 this time and same thing. So bad seals maybe from sitting for so long? He had the HVAC aluminum blend doors done before he parked it so that should rule out the blend doors being an issue.

- Also can someone direct me as to where the d*mned wheel speed sensor plugs should be secured at? Driver side seems fine where I put it on the frame but the Passenger side had this plastic piece attached to it and I cannot figure out where it is supposed to clip to. So for the time being I have the wire secured to the AC low pressure line and just hanging in the air.





- One last thing I can think of right now is this ground cable coming from the engine harness to the Driverside frame. The FSM wiring diagrams show this wire to be routed from the fram up the ground wire from the engine block to the ground point on the fender next to the TIPM. Instead the wire is ran across the engine bay (just free floating) and into the engine harness.





- I have a bad exhaust leak at the down pipe v band clamp that needs to be fixed.



- I am also getting a leak from the back side of the oil pan!! I have already dropped the pan once and resealed the rear gasket surface. So this leads me to believe that the camshaft seal is the culprit. Anyone have a clue as to how I can tell which one is which? When the truck is idling in the driveway if I crawl under it I do not see oil seeping from the back of the pan, it is only after I drive the truck that I get the oil.



 

·
Registered
I know nothing.🙄
Joined
·
1,906 Posts
Wow, I haven’t been following this thread and missed a lot!

Nice to see someone else who uses Tesa tape. I also use the soft Tesa felt tape on the interior to stop the rattles. It solved most of the door rattles in my truck…


One last thing I can think of right now is this ground cable coming from the engine harness to the Driverside frame. The FSM wiring diagrams show this wire to be routed from the fram up the ground wire from the engine block to the ground point on the fender next to the TIPM. Instead the wire is ran across the engine bay (just free floating) and into the engine harness.
That wire that disappears into the engine harness is the ECM Ground. It is supposed to be connected directly to the battery - post. And there should be an additional ground wire from that point on the frame to the battery - post IIRC.

The ABS sensor connectors are supposed to have fir tree clips on them. The fir tree is supposed to be pushed into a hole from the back side of the wheel well liner.

As for your A/C… refill your system with R134a+leak dye... If you can’t find the leak, try point the UV light at the HVAC box drain.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jaysz28

·
Registered
Fixing up an 06 Cummins 2500 Megacab
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Wow, I haven’t been following this thread and missed a lot!

Nice to see someone else who uses Tesa tape. I also use the soft Tesa felt tape on the interior to stop the rattles. It solved most of the door rattles in my truck…

That wire that disappears into the engine harness is the ECM Ground. It is supposed to be connected directly to the battery - post. And there should be an additional ground wire from that point on the frame to the battery - post IIRC.

The ABS sensor connectors are supposed to have fir tree clips on them. The fir tree is supposed to be pushed into a hole from the back side of the wheel well liner.

As for your A/C… refill your system with R134a+leak dye... If you can’t find the leak, try point the UV light at the HVAC box drain.
Thanks for the reply :) I'll have to make up a wire to get that ground done properly.

I saw the holes in the liner and moved them there, glad I guessed right lol.

I filled the A/C with R134 + stop leak, first time it mostly leaked off. Few days later checked it and refilled again, the A/C is working decent right now but it's also getting cooler out so not needing to work as hard. I'm putting my finger on the seals coming off that canister. I'll likely take it to a shop and have it evacuated, seals replaced and refilled. He had the whole system serviced before it was parked, to include, the blender door upgrades.

Clamps for turbo housing to elbow and elbow to downpipe will be here today. Discovered the turbo oil return line was leaking too, that part should be here today too. Lastly I got some Fleet Guard Restore Plus to do a final flush on the coolant.

Still have the oil leaking from the rear pan, holding off on it for now but I'll likely be pulling the trans back out and checking that cam seal/drop pan and start over on sealing that rear lip.

I got the 4*4 fixed too! Spent a whole day going through the FSM troubleshooting steps for the codes I was getting. Turned out to be a combination of poor connection and a crapped out shift motor.
 

·
Registered
I know nothing.🙄
Joined
·
1,906 Posts
Thanks for the reply :) I'll have to make up a wire to get that ground done properly.

I saw the holes in the liner and moved them there, glad I guessed right lol.

I filled the A/C with R134 + stop leak, first time it mostly leaked off. Few days later checked it and refilled again, the A/C is working decent right now but it's also getting cooler out so not needing to work as hard. I'm putting my finger on the seals coming off that canister. I'll likely take it to a shop and have it evacuated, seals replaced and refilled. He had the whole system serviced before it was parked, to include, the blender door upgrades.

Clamps for turbo housing to elbow and elbow to downpipe will be here today. Discovered the turbo oil return line was leaking too, that part should be here today too. Lastly I got some Fleet Guard Restore Plus to do a final flush on the coolant.

Still have the oil leaking from the rear pan, holding off on it for now but I'll likely be pulling the trans back out and checking that cam seal/drop pan and start over on sealing that rear lip.

I got the 4*4 fixed too! Spent a whole day going through the FSM troubleshooting steps for the codes I was getting. Turned out to be a combination of poor connection and a crapped out shift motor.
I will say, that stop leak does more damage than good in an AC system.

If I were you and wanted a good reliable AC system, I would read up on the process and flush the entire thing.

You can easily rent gauges and a vacuum pump and do the whole service yourself.

Why did I even recommend dye? Because otherwise you’re shooting in the dark. You may have a cracked evaporator and you will not know unless you check with the dye…

After you find the leak with dye, I really recommend replacing the orifice tube hose and flush the rest of the lines and evaporator and condenser.

Then you remove the AC compressor and thoroughly drain the oil. After that, refill the compressor with 70% of the oil charge. The other 30% of that oil goes in accumulator

Once the system is back together, immediately vacuum down the system for 30 minutes and close valves/turn off the pump to check for leaks.

After all that, if you’re intimidated about filling, you can return the pump/gauges and have a shop fill the system with the proper weight.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jaysz28

·
Registered
Fixing up an 06 Cummins 2500 Megacab
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I will say, that stop leak does more damage than good in an AC system.

If I were you and wanted a good reliable AC system, I would read up on the process and flush the entire thing.

You can easily rent gauges and a vacuum pump and do the whole service yourself.

Why did I even recommend dye? Because otherwise you’re shooting in the dark. You may have a cracked evaporator and you will not know unless you check with the dye…

After you find the leak with dye, I really recommend replacing the orifice tube hose and flush the rest of the lines and evaporator and condenser.

Then you remove the AC compressor and thoroughly drain the oil. After that, refill the compressor with 70% of the oil charge. The other 30% of that oil goes in accumulator

Once the system is back together, immediately vacuum down the system for 30 minutes and close valves/turn off the pump to check for leaks.

After all that, if you’re intimidated about filling, you can return the pump/gauges and have a shop fill the system with the proper weight.
I totally understand and honestly it is intimidating, I've never messed with A/C systems before but all that sounds like it should be fairly straight forward. I'll look into doing the work and see what all it entails, if I have any specific questions I may reach out to you.

Although three weeks working on the truck and nearly double my anticipated spending I've come to end of my limit, time to find a job and get some money flowing back into my pocket. It sure would be nice to have someone like you or KrashHD around my area to hang with and have some fun turning wrenches.

I tallied up all my receipts and am sitting around $2800 for everything so far, which honestly isn't too bad considering all the **** this truck had wrong with it! The nice thing about it and part of the reason I like tackling these sort of projects is, I now have a much better understanding of the truck and confidence that it is on it's way to being done right, not by some schmuck that was just tryna sell the problems to the next guy.....even if that does mean I WAS the next guy 🤣

Oh yeah - thinking back on the original thread your concern with VINs and all that. He has the original doors off the truck, just so happens the original door sticker was still on it. The correct VIN sadly did not match ANYTHING in this truck, so the motor was swapped and the mileage...well I doubt that is correct. The silver lining is that the original vin only shows it has one minor incident on it so if I can manage to get the title's VIN fixed the 'salvage/rebuilt' might fall off. I'm fully anticipating that coming through and if so I'll be getting a new door sticker made and swapping the VIN plate on the dash.
 

·
Registered
I know nothing.🙄
Joined
·
1,906 Posts
Oh yeah - thinking back on the original thread your concern with VINs and all that. He has the original doors off the truck, just so happens the original door sticker was still on it. The correct VIN sadly did not match ANYTHING in this truck, so the motor was swapped and the mileage...well I doubt that is correct. The silver lining is that the original vin only shows it has one minor incident on it so if I can manage to get the title's VIN fixed the 'salvage/rebuilt' might fall off. I'm fully anticipating that coming through and if so I'll be getting a new door sticker made and swapping the VIN plate on the dash.
Honestly, it may be best to keep the cab vin… why? There are con vins on the cab which matter more to leos than the frame vin…

Anyways, whatever you do, make sure to keep everything documented in case there’s ever questions.


And I’d be happy to try to answer questions about A/C. I’ve done too many in my home garage… I even had to charge my classic Mercedes using superheat/subcool method since hose lengths and components were changed…

HVAC has honestly been a little hobby of mine over the past few years, and I’ve learned most of what I know on the web…and failure.😅
 

·
Registered
2005 Dodge Ram 3500, Firepunk auto, 4x4
Joined
·
332 Posts
Just wanted to say awesome 2 threads my man, and thank you for documenting it for us all! It was a good read, and I am glad there are others out there that are willing to bring these trucks back from the dead. My 05 was a budget problem child as well, and I finally have it where I want after double the price of the truck lol. But just remember we aren't making a $1,100 truck payment like the newer rigs come with. That helps me justify every mod at least. Keep posting as you go, I would love to see where it ends up in the future, awesome work and determination!!
 

·
Registered
Fixing up an 06 Cummins 2500 Megacab
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Just wanted to say awesome 2 threads my man, and thank you for documenting it for us all! It was a good read, and I am glad there are others out there that are willing to bring these trucks back from the dead. My 05 was a budget problem child as well, and I finally have it where I want after double the price of the truck lol. But just remember we aren't making a $1,100 truck payment like the newer rigs come with. That helps me justify every mod at least. Keep posting as you go, I would love to see where it ends up in the future, awesome work and determination!!
Thanks bud :) It has been fun going through the truck and I will definitely continue posting as other stuff gets done. I've debated on making a 3rd thread to document everything from this point forward. You are absolutely right, even for what I am into the truck, I am still way under what a new one costs and likely have a more reliable truck to boot!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,859 Posts
Good stuff man! I have slowly been through most of that crap on my truck, very happy to never do a lot of it again!

Sorry about the oil leak. Could be a few thing, rear pain, cam seal, crank housing, oil pan... how much is it leaking?
 
21 - 40 of 43 Posts
Top