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Fixing up an 06 Cummins 2500 Megacab
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
If you are interested in seeing where this all started check HERE - TLDR: 4-5 Months in the Cummins market and was struggling to get into a truck. Along comes a friend with an 06 Mega Cab for sale, he was up front with most of the issues it had (and also clueless to many issues) but I was unsure and came to the forum for some advice. Since the original thread we have squared up a deal, I now have the truck at my house and have a $1500 limit for repairs and to decide if I want the truck. If I decide against buying the truck he will reimburse me and keep it. Here in now starts the adventure of Mega-Stein 2.0 - The resurrection!

Issue's to fix:
  • Speedo ✅
  • Cruise ✅
  • 4x4 Service light ✅
  • ABS Control Module ✅
  • ABS Sensors ✅
  • Wiper motor ✅
  • A/C Control issues ✅
  • Door Belting missing
  • Steering wheel outer layer crumbling/ center emblem missing ✅
  • Overhead Display ✅
  • Re-loom harness ✅
  • Reverse lights not working ✅
  • Tail light housings need replaced
  • Headlights need replaced or buffed and re-sealed
  • Re-Stall Torque Converter ✅
  • Transmission line leaking at rubber hose section ✅
  • TIPM Housing busted ✅
  • D.S. Battery tray busted ✅
  • Serpentine belt chirping ✅
  • Belt tensioner worn out ✅
  • Idler pulley (wear item) ✅
  • Water pump (wear item) ✅
  • Front axle u-joints (wear item)
  • Diff pinion seals ✅

Upgrades that may or may not happen, I would like to build the truck but I need to go through the issues first and see what comes of it:
  • T.Case Rebuild
  • Finish building Trans
  • S475 or S480 Compound Turbo setup
  • Head Studs
  • Pushrods
  • Valve Springs
  • Injectors
  • Lift pump
  • Fire ring
  • CP3 upgrade
  • Edge CTS2/3

Prior to this thread I have purchased AlfaOBD and OBDLink MX+, swapped ABS Sensor cables and the ABS module this remedied the issues related to all of that (y) Shout out to @cumminsturbofreak and @andyman for helping me get through that stuff.✅
 

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Fixing up an 06 Cummins 2500 Megacab
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Dropped the trans, pulled harness and shipped off T/C - Dropping the trans was actually fairly simple, it's also the first time I have ever pulled a transmission. I am having the T/C rebuilt and re-stalled - 15 blade stator, 300 under stock, new discs and all that good stuff. $400 plus shipping both ways. I will go through this harness, repair any issues and re-loom as well (y)

To anyone curious about shipping the T/C, I over engineer the hell out of it - Drained T/C for a few hours, stuff a rag in the input hole, two latex gloves over that with zipties, then into two thick mil yard trash bags zip tied up inside a 16x16 double wall box inside of an 18x18 double wall box with a ton of the small sized bubble wrap, nearly an entire roll of tape, more bubble wrap, gorilla tape and lastly strapping. Purchased my label from the shop - $75 flat rate w/ $1k of insurance. Sure beat having to deal with freight!







Spent a day going to some salvage yards, $150 later and walked away with a battery tray, TIPM Housing, Rear splash guards, steering wheel minus airbag, OTIS w/ frame, A/C Controls, Front door belting and a wiper switch assembly. Not a bad haul by any means, anything I don't use I can throw up for sale.





Today I started troubleshooting the OTIS w/ Homelink. Also found an 06 FSM, according to the wiring diagram the connector from the cab harness had B+ and Ground pinned wrong. Tested my theory first, confirmed and proceeded to clip those wires and re-solder for correct orientation, everything works on the OTIS and passed self test! I believe due to the cab swap it was simply a difference in the 06/07 harnesses as everything but those two wires lined up correctly.

I also hooked up the A/C controls I snagged up, I can hear all blend doors cycle, blower speed works as it should as well. I believe the climate control switches were going bad on the original controller (might be fixable though) aluminum blend doors may be in my near future.








I continued the day with pulling the engine bay to Cab TIPM harness, this sucker is eat up with corroded loom and potentially a few repair wires. I will check continuity through the entire harness, fix any issues and re-loom. The TIPM was in fact rebuilt recently as my buddy told me.





This likely concludes the day - I will continue to post pics and my findings as I go through this truck so stay tuned!
 

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Fixing up an 06 Cummins 2500 Megacab
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Real quick I wanted to post up the TIPM, I am swapping it over to the other housing really quick and was examining it for the repairs done. Appears that this micro controller was either replaced or the solder was reflowed. I'd venture to say it was reflowed as the epoxy is still present on the chip.



For any matter, it seems these boards are coated in a clear epoxy resin to prevent damage from the elements. Furthermore Mak's did not reapply epoxy to the repair area, so this is slightly concerning to me, I may look into eventually applying a new coat of epoxy to the board.



Lastly, the MC is a 32 bit flash memory module (MAC7131MVF40) specifically designed for the automotive industry to handle can bus operations. You can see the datasheet for it here

 

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Nice detail! Looking forward to seeing your progress and outcome. Pretty dedicated to it after the other thread which I like, even though a few of us said run away!
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wanted to drop a small update! I have spent the last week rebuilding some R/C to run with a buddy this past weekend and pass off a Big Rock to his son, now I am kicking myself cause I got behind on the truck :rolleyes:

- DPC shipped my torque converter Monday - tracking shows it will be here Thursday.

- Got under the truck yesterday and found what appeared to be a crack in the flexplate. Pulled flexplate off and discovered that the ring gear had shifted forward about 1/4" this explains why the barring tool would not catch the teeth! Contaced BD and sent off some pictures, they believe that it is just a deep gouge but with the ring gear issue Dan really did his best in helping me out with a discount. Unfortunately they are out of stock on their certified flex plates so after some research I opted to go with a Georend billet flexplate (certified, ring gear is welded, offset 12 hole and he said it will handle 1k HP no problem).






- Stripped all the old loom off the harnesses. Ordered new loom and fir tree and winged retainers. Idk if Dodge used this duck tape equivalent for their harnesses but if so I want to slap R&D, absolutely the worst crap ever!





- Pulled wiper motor - disassembled, cleaned and reassembled with dielectric grease.





 

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Fixing up an 06 Cummins 2500 Megacab
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
- Went through the wiper/blinker switch. The blinker/wiper section of traces were grooved pretty good; cleaned up and lightly flowed some solder for good measure. Coated the board as it was originally with a thin layer of dielectric grease. Tested all of the traces to make sure I didn't overflow any solder.









- Steering wheel swapped out; the old one was well worn and the center emblem missing. Cleaned up the one I got from the salvage yard and swapped everything over/reinstalled into truck.






I also picked up some 1/2" transmission cooler hose, will be replacing all the rubber sections and removing the check ball. Pictures of all that coming soon...
 

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Looking good!

Honestly if you still have the multifunction switch apart, clean all that dielectric grease of the board. Do a LIGHT coat on just the connections. Dodge way overdid it by putting it everywhere and made a mess that collected dirt and dust over the years. Ended up causing many of the multifunction issues.

You shouldn't ever have connection issues now with that solder, looks clean!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Looking good!

Honestly if you still have the multifunction switch apart, clean all that dielectric grease of the board. Do a LIGHT coat on just the connections. Dodge way overdid it by putting it everywhere and made a mess that collected dirt and dust over the years. Ended up causing many of the multifunction issues.

You shouldn't ever have connection issues now with that solder, looks clean!
Thanks man, I appreciate the positive reinforcement! Unfortunately I already have it all back together but down the road if it starts acting up again really isn't that hard to pull and I have a spare I can go through and give the same treatment for an easy swap out.

It's looking like I could potentially have the truck back together by sometime next week. This will be it's trial run - it nothing else major gives then I'll move forward with the build.

I hope the solder job is good enough and hopefully didn't heat the traces too much!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Although I have gotten tasks accomplished these past few days I have felt like I'm running circles more than anything ⭕

Yesterday I killed half the day driving around San Antonio looking for someone who had a 1-11/16" impact socket in stock, then they didn't have 3/4" breaker bars and most other places sold little crappy 18" ones. So ordered ARP flexplate bolts from Holden Bros and made a trip to my parents today to get my 3/4" breaker bar and ratchet. Picked the ARP bolts up on the way home but got offset looking for more little odd and ends locally and during rush hour to boot.

]

Got my new battery terminals in and man they are sexy! Please forgive the fingerprints 😓



Also received some of my loom, Tesa tape and fir tree stuff for the harness's 🎁



This morning I stripped the old loom off the battery cables and made up a measuring board. Managed to get started on all the battery and ground cables, finished those up this evening when I got back home! I just hope everything measured out right 🤞

If anyone is interested in the lengths these are measured end to end (eye to eye).
  • D.S. B+ to starter - 38"
  • D.S. B+ to TIPM - 28.5"
  • D.S. B+ to P.S. B+ - 78"
  • D.S. G to Block - 35"
  • D.S. G to Frame - 18"
  • D.S. Grid Heater to Relay - 18.5"
  • P.S. G to Block - 35"
  • P.S. G to Frame - 17"
  • Relay Wires - 18.5" & 13.5"










I discovered that I screwed myself on the metal trans lines. Rather than cutting the crimp off and exposing a perfectly preformed clamping area and bubbled end I cut the first two and bubbled them myself with a brake line kit. 🤦‍♂️ So to anyone looking to replace the OEM rubber sections on these take a dremel grinder to them and work with what Mopar has already given you!



 

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Fixing up an 06 Cummins 2500 Megacab
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yesterday I worked on this and finished it up today after the JB set up. The overhead console shell I grabbed from the junk yard ended up breaking quite a lot when I removed the bulbs. So I decided to try and fix up the one that was in the truck.

If anyone is interested in doing this the tools used are.
  • JB Weld
  • 4-40 Pushrod
  • RC antenna
  • soldering iron
  • utility knife
  • cutters
  • angle dikes
  • screw driver
  • measuring device



Cut your 4-40 Pushrods to 4" and your antenna tubing to .5". Sand down the ends of the pushrod to remove any burs and slip the tubing over the pushrods.





Take your solder iron and notch the area where the broken ears are just enough so the pushrod will stay on it's own. Now set the pushrod in place and heat it up with the soldering iron so that it pushes into the plastic. Go just enough so that the plastic forms around the pushrod.






Now get your JB Weld and start going to town securing the rod ends and any cracks forming or broken areas.




Let everything dry completely and snap your covers over top the tubing. Be careful not to break the ears on the covers! You now have a succesfully repaired overhead housing - reward yourself with a beer 🍻

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Alrighty folks I am at a crossroads and looking for a bit of advice - As torn down as I have the truck now I feel like this is the best time to go ahead and replace the oil pan gasket. Removed the rear main seal plate this morning and the job was done once before. The RTV is worn out, the gasket half stuck to the seal plate is in really bad shape.

I have read that you can successfully replace the pan gasket without lifting the motor, I don't know if the truck is in a good position to lift the motor due to the angle of the driveway and the side of the house/garage area.

Anyone have any thoughts on this matter or advice on the best way to proceed?

edit: after looking around some more on lifting the motor I'm gonna proceed with changing the gasket out. Cheap insurance for a big job if this one starts leaking more.




 

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I've replaced my oil pan twice, did a write-up both times. Although one of the times I replaced it while in a bigger repair...


 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've replaced my oil pan twice, did a write-up both times. Although one of the times I replaced it while in a bigger repair...


I found that second thread you linked today when I was looking around! I saw the first one from the original post I started, great information and pics in those posts :)

Just wait till you see the pics and the way I went about doing this :ROFLMAO: backwood mechanics at it's finest! I have just about everything cleaned up and ready to go back together, hopped on here to get torque specs for everything.
 

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I found that second thread you linked today when I was looking around! I saw the first one from the original post I started, great information and pics in those posts :)

Just wait till you see the pics and the way I went about doing this :ROFLMAO: backwood mechanics at it's finest! I have just about everything cleaned up and ready to go back together, hopped on here to get torque specs for everything.
Looking forward to the result!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Boy was today a fun one haha, I sure hope I don't have to change the pan gasket again anytime soon!

After taking off the rear main seal and realizing the pan gasket needed to be changed I went ahead and dropped the pan. Sure enough the gasket split apart, half was left on the engine while the other half on the pan. Went down the road to the nearest Dodge dealer and picked up a pan and pick up tube gasket. You see that filter and housing in the background? The plan is to hook that up on the feed line of the trans and filter out whatever is left inside prior to topping her off with ATF....



Already have fan shroud removed, took off down pipe clamp and loosened passenger side motor mount. I wasn't about to try and chase down an engine hoist so I crawled under the truck with my floor jack and a 2x4 :sneaky: Wedged the 2x4 up under the motor mount and positioned the jack, a few pums and she started raising. Crawled out and made sure nothing was hitting/hanging up and proceeded to give her h*ll.













Pan out - oil is blacker than sh*t but no sludge and the crank/up inside the motor looks good! Got everything cleaned up good, debated on buying a new pan but when I saw the price I figured this one will be good for awhile longer. lol





Spent a lot of time cleaning the mating surfaces, crank hub and all that jazz with a combo of brake clean, carb cleaner, scotch-brite pads, straight blade and gasket scraper.









New gasket slipped on and seated flush with washers/flexplate bolts. At this point I now have the seal plate aligned so I went ahead and blue loctite/torqued bolts to 7 ft/lbs.



Seating ring tool on and finished flushing up the gasket. Removed everything and started tackling the pan - it was getting dark so no pictures were taken but I will get some tomorrow. Torqued oil pick up bolts to 18 ft/lbs, snugged up 6 bolts on the pan and will let the RTV set up tonight and finish installing/torqueing bolts tomorrow morning.







Flexplate arrived today and man is she a beauty!! Looks like the trans will go back on tomorrow :cool:



 

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Nice work, looks like it's coming along clean. Oil pan is always a treat. Honestly while you were in there doing that, I would have verified that the timing gear housing to block connection is leak free. It's a big job of your have to get back in there and fix that leak...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Nice work, looks like it's coming along clean. Oil pan is always a treat. Honestly while you were in there doing that, I would have verified that the timing gear housing to block connection is leak free. It's a big job of your have to get back in there and fix that leak...
Thanks! How'd you like my 2x4 under the engine mount :LOL:

Isn't that on the front of the block though? I'm not opposed to doing it but I am willing to bet when this truck was so horribly put back together that was probably done.

Confirmed Timing Gear Housing to Block Leak this is what you're referring too eh? Idk if I'm prepare to do that without an assist, to bad you don't live closer! haha
 

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Thanks! How'd you like my 2x4 under the engine mount :LOL:

Isn't that on the front of the block though? I'm not opposed to doing it but I am willing to bet when this truck was so horribly put back together that was probably done.

Confirmed Timing Gear Housing to Block Leak this is what you're referring too eh? Idk if I'm prepare to do that without an assist, to bad you don't live closer! haha
Yeah that's what I'm talking about for sure! It took me years to find that leak. Thought it was the rear main, couple of oil pan gaskets.. The ole girl still leaked. Till I finally found the real source.

It's not a hard job, just time consuming!

Oh that single 2x4 holding up the entire engine. .. You sir are a brave man.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Got a letter from the HOA and there are apparently rules against having an inoperable vehicle within visibility of the street. It either has to be in the garage (truck wouldn't fit if I wanted it to) or in the back yard (impossible to do without tearing down the privacy fence). I responded back to them and informed them that the vehicle is undergoing repairs and will be operational soon. Hopefully they let it slide....



In other news I got a late start this morning but I finished up the oil pan - I am nervous about that with the RTV application, I feel like I should of put more than I did but maybe more is less in this application. I wish I would of thought about it yesterday and labeled the torque pattern, managed to do it under the truck but it was a PITA. Torqued everything (minus the 3 under crossmembers) to 18 ft/lbs.





Cleaned up the adapter plate and prepped it for remount. Torqued to 57 ft/lbs and then cleaned up and installed starter.







Got the flexplate mounted with ARP bolts - red loctite on the bottom half of threads and assembly lube on the head torqued to 120 ft/lbs per ARP instructions.





DPC torque converter ready for ATF! Super stoked to see how this T/C makes the truck drive :devilish:



Went through the trans harness today as well. Removed all the old tape, cleaned everything with contact cleaner and fixed two wires that were in bad shape. Checked continuity through every plug end and then proceeded to wrap it all back up with Tesa tape. The rest of my loom will be here tomorrow and I will be able to get the other harness done.









About to head to Walmart and hopefully snag all my fluids - ATF, Motor oil and coolant flush stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Lagging behind because of so much running around for parts and tools but I did get the transmission mounted yesterday. I did not get many pictures while I was doing the trans as I was crawling all over the place, out, back under, out, back under....Went to start putting the driveshaft on and remembered I need to change the pinion seal and oil so that all got started today. I will list part numbers and a sort of how-to when I get done with all that.

To anyone wanting to tackle this job and does not want to buy a transmission jack the motorcycle jack Harbor Freight has (its cheap with a coupon) worked great for both dropping and installing the trans. All of the work I have done on this truck has been solo, a little manipulation of common items like ratchet straps, bungee cords and homemade wood wedges makes this job all the easier.

Went shopping about 4 hours and 8 stores later got everything. Not one single store had everything I needed in stock.



Dropped a quart of oil into the T/C and let it soak for a few hours.



Finished up the trans harness.



Coolant lines and harness installed.





Lifting the trans to get the jack underneath it.



Cleaned bell housing up.



Installed T/C.



Trans bolts torqued up w/ red loctite, ratchet strap to hold up weight and moved the jack over out of the way for the T.Case install. Tightened bolts down with blue loctite for T.Case and then installed crossmember.





 
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