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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey yall, what's the best programmer for the 6.7? As far as a good mix of power, MPG, and reliabilty?

Also, what's the best box?

I only know of the Dr. Performance "Pressure Box", and the TS MP-8.

Also, what's the best combo for stacking the two?

See, right now I'm still running my DPF, and EGR because of lack of funds, but when I get my "Economy Booster" check I was gonna buy a programmer and an S&B air intake. And later...remove the DPF, and EGR.

Do yall think the AFE Mega Cannon is worth the extra $$$ ?

Please let me know, so I can go ahead and decide before my check comes in.

Any and ALL input will be greatly appreciated!!!
 

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i don't think the mega cannon is worth the $$$ i'm going with an aem as that looks like a well built kit with a big a** filter, just like the mega cannon and it also is $180 cheaper. As for boxes i don't know about the dr performance box but i know alot of people like the mp8.
 

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Build your own delete kits (dpf and egr) and you can save a lot of money. All of the info is here if you do some research.
 

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Build your own delete kits (dpf and egr) and you can save a lot of money. All of the info is here if you do some research.

And on that note....

What exactly are the 2 sensors that the fooler boxes are sensoring?

Is it heat? and if so has anyone just tried putting them right off the turbo in the down pipe or something to that, maybe 1 right at the turbo and 1 a few feet back...
 

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The 3 sensors are all EGT probes. The O2 sensors dont have to be fooled. I wouldnt recommend stacking unless the DPF is gone. If you are gonna start with your first box i say go with the Edge. It has all the monitoring functions with it. Some people are having good luck with the PMT but it will not clear codes at startup like the edge will.
 

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The 3 sensors are all EGT probes. The O2 sensors dont have to be fooled. .
Ok so Compcowboy would you think just moving the sensors into the heat upstream wouild be as good as the fooler boxes...

Does anyone know what the comp is reading for the sensors to start activating or deactivating the dpf system.

I have seen the most feedback is for edge and the bd pmt without the dpf.

Who's stuff seems to work best with the dpf and egr crap staying on board?
 

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The edge and pmt will still work great for you, but advantage of edge is it clears codes at start up with dpf off
 

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So either of the available tuners are good with the emmis crap left on, but the advantage is the edge clears codes whereas the pmt does not, what about the banks tuner? anyone have any experience with them.
 

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Ok so Compcowboy would you think just moving the sensors into the heat upstream wouild be as good as the fooler boxes...

Does anyone know what the comp is reading for the sensors to start activating or deactivating the dpf system.

I have seen the most feedback is for edge and the bd pmt without the dpf.

Who's stuff seems to work best with the dpf and egr crap staying on board?
I think the Sensors will read about 1150 to 1200 for the computer to think its in Passive Regen, No need for extra Fuel. I imagine with the fooler box it doesnt matter where the
Sensors are Placed because they are tricked into thinking they are always at a certain temp, but i guess if that was the case then you could just remove them all together.

I liked the Edge with the DPF because it has a Regen Alert. That way you can be alerted to when you are dumping :$: down the pipe.........:rof
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Alright, so Edge and MP-8 it is...

But, what about the intake...AFE or S&B?

And like I said before...the DPF is only on for the time being...because I don't have the money to remove it right now... And, I might go ahead and order my EGR block-off plates from Laguna Speed (only $60), plus it would cost me more than that, in time alone, to fab up some.

But, it WILL be gone soon! And hopefully sooner, than later!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OHHH! One more thing!

When you order your MP-8...is it worth buying the 6.7L harness so I don't have to shim the fuel-release?
 

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There isn't a harness to buy. There is an optional fuel plug that you can buy so you do not have to shim the fuel release valve. You can only use the optional plug if you are using the MP-8 by itself. If you are stacking you need to use the supplied shim kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Trying not to sound dumb...but, why exactly?

Just wondering? Is it because the fuel plug allows you to gain more rail p.s.i., than the shims do? And they don't want you to blow a rail, or injectors, etc...?
 

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With the plug there is no place for the extra fueling to go. The extra fuel needs to go somewhere so it will make it's way back through the injectors. With the shim kit the extra fuel can still be released since it is still utilizing the release valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Like I said...I'm not dumb...but I'm not a morning person, so is there any way you can use "laman's terms" for me.

I know alot about trucks and diesels (especailly 7.3 PowerStroke's), but not alot about the common-rail fuel systems.

So, is there any way you can explain it in a "Common-Rail Diesels for Dummies" version?
 

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Well you're building extra pressure when you stack. With the plug there will be no where for the pressure to go because there is a plug in place. The path of least resistance would be the injectors so that is where the pressure will be relieved. When you use the shims in the fuel release the pressure can still escape as it normally would which saves your injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Okay, I get all of it...but one part.

Where does the pressure normally escape too?

And the fuel plug looked like an electronic harness connector, not an actual "plug".

So, what if you are planning on running DDP 80 Hp. injectors? Will it be okay then, or will it still be bad for the rest of the CRD setup?

So, if I run the MP-8 alone, with the fuel plug, and the DDP 80 Hp injectors, will I be alright?
 

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The pressure can travel back through the rail and the rest of the fuel system instead of being forced through the injectors.

The plug is an actual plug not a harness.

You could use the plug with the injectors but I would personally use the shim kit as it is included with the MP-8. Adding the shims is not that hard and if you decide to add a Juice or another tuner down the road you will be all set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So, when you install the shims, where do you put them?

And, when you unscrew whatever it is, is there not any pressure to release first?

For example...The High-Pressure oil line from the High-Pressure-Oil-Pump on a PowerStroke can be very dangerous (can hold upwards of 36,000 p.s.i.), and can cause serious injury, if you don't use the right tool to remove it!
 

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You remove the fuel relief valve from the front of the fuel rail. You take apart the valve and add the 3 shims behind the spring that is inside the valve. Put the valve back together and screw the valve back into the fuel rail. Here are the instructions so you can see how to do it:http://www.tsperformance.com/Download/MP8%206.7L%20Dodge.pdf

There is not any pressure to relieve. It isn't under pressure when the truck is not running.
 
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