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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so I installed a new trans temp gauge after I installed the new trans and I can't tell whether it's workin or not. It is an eletrical gauge. WHen you hit the key, the needle move up maybe half an inch or so, so I believe the gauge is wired right, but I have heard that some go to full and then back down. IT has good power when the key is turned on, and good ground, but I have no idea how to test if the sender is working. I have yet to see this thing move, and I am beginning to wonder if I have done something wrong, ANY HELP ??????
 

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Rescue Tower
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Read the manual or directions that came with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
IT's wired exactly the right way, per there directions, but there are no directions to go off of for testing purposes.
 

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our trucks are different gens,but when i did mine,i turnd the key it buried the needle,,,,took the ground off the sender,,it works fine......mine will stay at 100* on the highway........but stop and go its at 140-150*,,,but again we have different gens,,,i dont know if theres a difference,,,,,what auotmeter do u have????
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's an auto meter # 3552 2 5/8" electrical with an 1/8" npt sender. DOes the sender need to be grounded?
 

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Well with my Autometers in my Goldwing if you take the sender lead and tap it on a ground surface the needle should jump up rapidly to the high side of the scale. Like I said just tap the wire...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
When performing this test, it will peg the gauge. So this is why I assumed there was nothing wrong with the wiring??????
 

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Correct the needle will jump rapidily to the MAX peg position. That way I suggest you just tap the lead to ground so not to do any harm. So this will prove that everything to the sender is properly hooked up. Then it only leaves the sender to be tested.

To do that you heat up some warm and use a cooking thermometer and get it good and hot. Remove the sender and leave the sender lead hooked up. Then temporarily ground the sender with a clip lead or simiular. Now place in the water and see if the gauge matches closely to the hot water (thermometer).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
After that explination, I think a light bulb just came on. If the sender is now run in rubber line instead of the steel factory line, the sender does have to ground some way to read correct? I got rid of all the stock line and went with high pressure rubber line, so I think maybe the sender is not grounding?? Think maybe this is it?
 

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Rescue Tower
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After that explination, I think a light bulb just came on. If the sender is now run in rubber line instead of the steel factory line, the sender does have to ground some way to read correct? I got rid of all the stock line and went with high pressure rubber line, so I think maybe the sender is not grounding?? Think maybe this is it?
Correct. It has to be grounded to complete the circuit, unless there are two wires going to it (positive and ground). Thats an easy one to verify. Take a piece of wire and ground it.. then check its operation.
 

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After that explanation, I think a light bulb just came on. If the sender is now run in rubber line instead of the steel factory line, the sender does have to ground some way to read correct? I got rid of all the stock line and went with high pressure rubber line, so I think maybe the sender is not grounding?? Think maybe this is it?
Correct.. Like my low pressure light in my fuel system is the same way and had to add a ground strap to the sensor for the light function properly.

http://mopar.cumminsforum.com/personal/2002/bombs/gauges/low-pressure-sender-install.jpg

As you can see I soldier the lead right to the sensor so it had a ground plane. Other than that the light never came on because rubber is a horrid conductor of electricity...:hehe:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It's funny, sometimes just talking to people can turn the light on :doh: :lol4: By the way, I plumbed it using to brass pipe thread hose barbs into a brass pipe thread T then the sender threads into that. How can I attach it to brass?? I don't think soldier will hold?
 

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it will solder to brass no problem just scuff it up with some sand cloth or sandpaper and use some flux to clean well.... and make sure theres no liquid in it or it wont heat up...
 

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Take the senor out of the fitting and then soldier it... It will take soldier no problem but small irons might not be able to do it with the sensor in the fitting...

Like dm1tonram said sand it up and get a clean surface and soldier will stick to it... I know soldier will stick to steel, brass, and copper... I've even soldier a few fuel tanks in my day...
 

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solder should hold fine I would think
 
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