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Can anyone tell me if the outside temperature guage is connected to the ambient temperature sensor or some other sensor.
Yes it’s the sensor mounted i in front of radiator near the headlight.:wink2:
 

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My dilemma is, i am pulling a 0073 code which is ambient temperature sensor. However the temp gauge up by the interior light is showing the correct temp.
The one that give you the code should be referred as the Inket Air Temp sensor which is mounted on the air Inlet duct before the turbo. Usually the inlet air temp is higher than the ambient air temp when the engine warmed up.

The sensor for the overhead console ambient temp reading will not give you a code.
It’s not for control and diagnostics purposes.:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The one that give you the code should be referred as the Inket Air Temp sensor which is mounted on the air Inlet duct before the turbo. Usually the inlet air temp is higher than the ambient air temp when the engine warmed up.
Could this be triggered when I use the block heater overnight
 

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Should diagnose code for high voltage issue in circuit

Possible Causes

INLET AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR, check resistance 300- 90 k ohms good sensor
(K69) SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN, should be less then 10 ohms to ECM
(Y502) RETURN CIRCUIT OPEN, should be less then 10 ohms to ECM
(K69) SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED should be greater then 100 ohms checking other circuits on ecm connector

ECM connect jumper wire from k615(signal) and to k690(return) code P0072 should trip, if not ECM issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Should diagnose code for high voltage issue in circuit

Possible Causes

INLET AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR, check resistance 300- 90 k ohms good sensor
(K69) SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN, should be less then 10 ohms to ECM
(Y502) RETURN CIRCUIT OPEN, should be less then 10 ohms to ECM
(K69) SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED should be greater then 100 ohms checking other circuits on ecm connector

ECM connect jumper wire from k615(signal) and to k690(return) code P0072 should trip, if not ECM issue.
Where can i get a diagram of these terminals.
 

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I'm pretty sure I've seen an option in UDC pro that indicated the engine can use battery temp as well to determine outside ambient temperature. Might be worth checking those sensors too.
 

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Ok. I’m not very mechanically blessed. But I have done a lot of reading. Truck will not crank when temp is around 30 degrees. I’ve had the truck in the shop already. Lift pump is new, replaced pressure relief valve, replaced banjo bolt in back of head. Cannot find air leak in return line. Truck acts as if it looses prime, but only when it’s cold. No smoke, and once running the truck it’s awesome. Only code I ever get is one about the fan clutch. But it comes and goes. Shop said injectors were good. Just wondering if a bad temp sensor could be my problem? Any help greatly appreciated
 

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Plug truck in to block heater if it starts 99% chance injectors are issue.
Mechanic or you should check rail pressure when issue happens .
find better mechanic, BUY only NEW Bosch or BBI injectors to avoid issues
what fan code need to go thru diagnostics some can cause issue like your having.
Newbies guide here has FSM to help diagnose https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/22069665-post1.html

Should post truck info for more pertinent help.:wink2:
 

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Don’t have any way of checking rail pressure during crank. Once at idle edge shows it being about 6k. Truck will start better with block heater plugged in. He said the fuel return test ruled out injectors? What are other signs that bad injector would tip? Wouldn’t it smoke or run poorly? Also someone else mentioned the air getting in return ? What way could I find an air leak that’s not leaking fuel?
 

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Don’t have any way of checking rail pressure during crank. Once at idle edge shows it being about 6k. Truck will start better with block heater plugged in. He said the fuel return test ruled out injectors? What are other signs that bad injector would tip? Wouldn’t it smoke or run poorly? Also someone else mentioned the air getting in return ? What way could I find an air leak that’s not leaking fuel?
Fuel return test was probably done while warm. Not while cold.

The problem is when everything is cold. Once warmed up if it continues to start fine, it's almost definitely the injectors.
 

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Thanks for the reply. Not exactly what I wanted to hear. But if it will fix the problem I’ve been chasing for 4 months I’ll have some peace of mind! Thanks for the input!

That said. Which injectors should I go back with? Stock? Or is there an upgrade?
 

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Also I found someone that would test each injector. I know truck has mileage on it ,And my injectors aren’t gonna be 100% Up to par. How do I know that they are causing the problems that I am having?what I don’t wanna do is spend all that $ on injectors and have new injectors and a truck that still won’t crank. Guess my question is... are injectors either good or bad. Or is there just a possibility of a weak injectior?
 
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