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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just aquired a 96 3/4 ton, I tried to hook up the lock-up switch but came across a problem. Mabye one of the tranny experts can chime in and straighten me out. I followed the tst instructions to the T, but now when I engage the TC lock up it stays locked up and I lose the overdrive button and overdrive, and it stays locked up till i kill the truck. when I restart the truck i get the over drive button and overdrive back but if I trip the lock up switch again it goes to chit again. I'm kinda lost this is my first automatic diesel. I have adjusted the bands to spec and changed the filter. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
 

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Once engaged it won't disengage. Either downshift into 2nd or turn off the switch. If you want to go from O/D to O/D lock you have to disengage the switch hit the o/d switch and then re-engage the lock switch. Basically she'll up shift, but she won't down shift. She'll stay locked.
 

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Here's your problem, from TST's instructions:
Some Rams built between 9-95 to 4-96 have computer programming that does not permit this lockup feature to work as described above. Dodge dealers have the ability to reflash the computer to a newer program which prevents hunting among 3rd, 4th and lockup, and allows this added lockup switch to function. Dealers may charge you for this reflash service.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here's your problem, from TST's instructions:
Some Rams built between 9-95 to 4-96 have computer programming that does not permit this lockup feature to work as described above. Dodge dealers have the ability to reflash the computer to a newer program which prevents hunting among 3rd, 4th and lockup, and allows this added lockup switch to function. Dealers may charge you for this reflash service.
Yea I checked the door, but its a 8/95, is it possible that that is still the problem? I tried the manual shifting, it didnt work. Once I flipped the switch there was no coming back, with or without the switch, it wouldnt unlock till i killed the truck and restarted it. Also once I flipped the switch, the O/D button wouldnt lit up or work properly till I killed the truck????????
 

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i have a 9-95 truck and it does all the exact same things. if you leave the relay in and hold the switch till it locks completely for about ten seconds you can maunally downshift it to second when you come to lights and still have overdrive. but it doesnt undo until you turn off the key. it has to do with the programming, i guess. if you find out any information about having dodge reflash yours, let me know. i have tried talking to the local dodge dealer here but i had no luck and i dont know if they can just use whatever flas the later trucks use.
 

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My truck is a 3-96 build, & I tried the switches yesterday for the first time, & they work fine. I do have a 4WD light on now though.

Mine was hunting way to much for me.

Some one mentioned 04886926 is the P/N for the Flash program. I myself am still interested in the Flash if it stops the hunting, cause I still would like my automatic to be just that, an "Automatic".
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My truck is a 3-96 build, & I tried the switches yesterday for the first time, & they work fine. I do have a 4WD light on now though.

Mine was hunting way to much for me.

Some one mentioned 04886926 is the P/N for the Flash program. I myself am still interested in the Flash if it stops the hunting, cause I still would like my automatic to be just that, an "Automatic".
Thanks for the info, can anyone else verify that P/N for the flash?
 

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Here's a search I did, look at the dates that were posted. Some are a few yrs old.

part number 04886926 - Google Search



I stopped into my local Dodge dealer a little more than a wk ago an asked about the flash & he couldn't find it on his computer, but I didn't have the P/N with me. He told me it would be $85, ( I guess they've done other car flashes? )

I'll try to remember tomorrow to call them with that P/N & see if they'll describe what it says it'll do, (for verification).
 

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Like I said, previously, I had stopped in to the dealership & talked to one of the guys at the desk in the "shop" & he didn't know about this "specific" flash, & couldn't find it on his computer.

Well,....I stopped in again today, & asked the "Parts department" to look up this P/N ( fishing for info: a lefthand/righthand thing ), & it came up "module" (PCM) at something like $600+ dollars. He spent some time looking for links & tangents for this flash & couldn't find any then he said, if its a flash/program your looking for, they would be doing that in the shop anyway ( this I already knew ), and to go talk to Tony the "main" shop guy.

Tony said that I should have it scanned ($85) to see if any problems show up first. He said something like he could scan to see what program is in it now a check for up-dates.

He said if there is an update he could just put that in for $85 but there would be no guaranty that alone would fix my problem with out the scan first.

So, it sounded as if he could install the "supposed" flash without the other $85 scan. :confused013: ....Sounds as if they can just scan for what "program" is in there, Idk.

Anyway,... I said I'll give it some thought & check back with him.

So I ..."drove my Diesel with some switches, back to the house, with no stitches".
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I guess I need to go talk to the chitheads down at the stealership then and see what they say, thanks for all the great info.
 

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Fwiw, I made a few more ph calls yesterday.

I called a friend who has a Trans Shop, to see if he could Flash my truck, & basically he said there was not enough business (demand for that) to invest into that equipment, & he would have to purchase the rights each time to install the program at ~$50 each time. He told me of a parts store that would do it for I think $45.

So I called and talked to the guy there & he said yes but it was more like $60 & he would have to remove the PCM to Flash it , about a 30 min deal. But he told me of another Shop that could just plug into the lower dash port (OBD ?).

I talked to that Shop, & he said he had done Fords & Chevys, but hadn't done a Dodge yet, & would call me back tomorrow after he researched that. He said his would scan first. ( no price quote yet )

Here's something interesting, I had my buddy scan my truck today, so I could see where it stands before I get it flashed & all these codes show up. I think because of the "Switches".

The mechanic's writing is a little hard for me to read but I think it says...

P 1683 S/C Power Relay Circuit
P 0743 TCC Solenoid Circuit open or short
P 1765 Trans V (?) Relay Circuit open or short
P 0753 Trans 3-4 Solenoid Circuit

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the computers saying it recognizes my switches as "shorts" & notices the jumper wire.

Anyway, if/when I go for the "Flash" I'm going to have the codes wiped, drive it without the switches, scan it again (probably be no codes) then Flash it & see how it goes from there.
 

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Ok,......got the ph call I was waiting for, but not quit what I was hoping for. This stuff is all new to me so I'll explain it as best I can.

He said bring the truck in an he'll scan it for the PCM # then he can check with that # to see if there's an update available.

So I gave him that 04886926 #, he called back & said there is no update for that #. So, I take it that's the latest computer which has the updated program in it.

So, my computer is letting the switches work (Idk if its the newer computer or not ), but still shifts in-n-out of OD & Lock-up on its "own" too much for me. Only way to tell if mine has this 04886926 computer is to "scan" it for $40. Unless there is some markings on the outside of it. I remember seeing a bar code sticker on the outside of it but doubt that will help me much. I'll go look & see.

Fwiw,...Auto Zone (here anyway) will scan for codes free. Will not wipe any codes except maybe those I caused with my switches. Its a discretionary thing.

Final note: this place wants (I think) $112 to Scan & Flash. The most I'll do for know is Scan to see what computer/program I have for $40, then at least I'll know where I'm at. There might not be any updates for me.
 

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Had mine scanned for what program it has, & its the old 56070938.

Fwiw: He told me the newer program & the newer flash have that same 048..... number.

So,... I took the gamble an flashed the newer 04886926.

Took it for some test drives aaaannnnnnnnd, ......................wait for it .............. no difference.

I even moved the go peddle as least as possible & still in-&-out.

So, back to my switches, ... then back to the house.

My Conclusion: Since the only codes that show up are related to the switches, the truck is probably acting normal & trying to protect the trans, .....just to much protection for me!

So, :S:

Abde, abde, abde, that's all folks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yea, I beleive I'm giving up on it too. These late nights searching the net for fixes is killing me. I appreciate all your info and I wisht it had worked out, this was a mod I was excited to do. I guess better luck next time.
 

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I wonder if you could salvage a older computer from a junk yard if we could get the right #'s on the outside of the computer, that has a program that allows the switches to work.

Like mine that had the 56070938 program that allowed the switches to work before the flash and the #'s/letters on the outside below the bar codes are...

11111111111111111
JDGOCKUD
11111111111111111111
P56040
11111111111111 938
T0716 RBCAAD

"Notice" the P56040 & the 938 that's on the outside. The only difference is the 4 & the 7. Is the 5607xxxx an update to the 5604, or is the 5607xxxx the program that's in the 5604xxxx computer? :confused013: Some one I talked to in the last 4 days said an update would be marked on the outside of the computer, or is that something only the dealership does? I'll have to look @ mine tomorrow.

Idk, ...this may be another option rather than the "Flash", anybody know?
 

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I got a 94 3500 6bt with auto, and it hunted BAD. i tried lots, then put a noise filter , autozone, duralast; U1505 "condenser" on drive wire from PCM to alt, top wire that has lower than batt volts, drilled out wrap-a-round base/holder to mount on top case bolt (Had to solder wrap to cap body...), and it stopped, and worked right.
 
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