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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,
My TC lock up problem got pretty bad about 2 months ago. The typical lock - unlock at 40-50 mph. I read all the threads on here about solutions and began my trial and error. My batteries are 2 years old but recently tested fine. I cleaned all connections, new terminal posts, cleaned all grounds and replaced old wires and connections. I installed a bd noise isolator, reset the PCM and recalibrated the apps. I did all of this almost two months ago and the problem has been gone until 2 days ago. Now it's back 100%. I've checked everything that I can think of.. I greatly appreciate any help and ideas.
Thanks,
Rocky
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Any ideas?
 

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i was having this same problem the other day once i got around 45-50 in overdrive it would start jumping like crazy... i took off my battery terminals and cleaned them out i also have a ground wire that runs from the ECM to the body of the truck i took both of those off and sprayed them down with brake clean and used a wire brush to get the corrosion off and mine works fine now. Some people have been saying that if the sensor that's right under that black cover where your throttle cable is goes bad that can cause your truck to jump also. Idk if it helps or not but i even sprayed everything under that black cover just incase.... not sure if that did anything but was worth a shot
 

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Well not really worth a shot. The cleaner can get inside the apps and brake stuff loose.

Have you checked the alternator with bench test??? Were the batteries tested separatelly??
One of recent hits on this subject is the two grey connectors near pass battery ground. A guy has been eliminating the two connectors by cutting connectors out and soldering the wires together. Incidentlly the ground for both the ECM and PCM are in this wiring.
Others report success by working on wiring at alternator by shielding and twisted pair wiring for control circuit. there are no easy fixes and just looking at it and praying the connectors are good doesn't work. Battery terminals and engine ground connections still seem to be good canidates.
 

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I cant remember the name of it but there is another coil type noise limiter that goes over the wire tho the PCM from the APPS behind he air fileter. It is made adn sold from a company in Stockton CA. Been fighting with mone for 10 yearsw and 400+k miles and this seems to have fixed it for good when all others did not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all your help guys. The batteries were tested separately and I haven't had the alternator tested yet, but am planning on it.. Trans fluid level is full and just serviced. PThe trans shifts great and works well except for the lock - unlock. Do you all think a different noise isolator would work better? Like one from DTT or the ATS sponge. Could my converter be smoked? I'm planning on testing the alternator soon and to check into the two ground wires and grey plug aft of the alternator. I had to disconnect the batteries for 30 mins today to reset the codes so I could drive it home from work today. Thanks for all your help. Report back soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bigfish95971, did you use the noise isolator from Navone engineering? If so, how was the install? I would like to try it.
 

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You have not found the correct connector yet or your cleaning procedures were not agressive enough. When you have alternator checked, pull the brushes to visually prove are good. Try shielding of wiring around alternator. Or twisting the pair of control wires to alternator.
 
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