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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an '06 megacab, 300k, engine being rebuilt as we speak.

Going to freshen up entire truck, starting with suspension. Not looking for balls to the walls off road, or rolls Royce status. Just looking for basic, good quality ride...factory per se.

On my Ford, Moog was the best of the best with any second option far behind. Is that still the case for these dodges?

Should I just run everything I can to d in Moog? Looking at ball joints, sway bar links, I need to replace my bump stops, etc.

Also, what about shocks. I know blistein are top dogs, but don't want that kinda price...not that serious to me.

I tow often, and noticed when going past bridges I start porposing a lot. I'm assuming this is from weak shocks?

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That's $cad, not sure where you are.


Spend less and you will be replacing them in 50k.


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Have fun with that.


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See how long the bores last in the axle replacing them so often with cheap ball joints too. Finding a good axle can be tricky and expensive.

I would personally get a Ford again. Between the death wobble and blown head gaskets, it's probably a better truck.

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If you want factory ride, get factory parts from Mopar. I'd do that over picking MOOG. I know what you're thinking, as I use to get MOOG years ago for my Chevy. But they aren't the same anymore and the big axle under the Dodge just isn't the same. MOOG can't handle it.

Anyway, for the rest if the stuff, if you want factory, get factory. Everyone else including me can give you suggestions on aftermarket parts that are excellent and will give you "factory" ride or better. But you'll not like the price. Come to think of it, you might not like the price of Mopar stuff either, they consider their parts "Rolls Royce" too.

Example: Timken hub assembly -vs- Mopar
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you want factory ride, get factory parts from Mopar. I'd do that over picking MOOG. I know what you're thinking, as I use to get MOOG years ago for my Chevy. But they aren't the same anymore and the big axle under the Dodge just isn't the same. MOOG can't handle it.

Anyway, for the rest if the stuff, if you want factory, get factory. Everyone else including me can give you suggestions on aftermarket parts that are excellent and will give you "factory" ride or better. But you'll not like the price. Come to think of it, you might not like the price of Mopar stuff either, they consider their parts "Rolls Royce" too.

Example: Timken hub assembly -vs- Mopar
Ok, so that makes sense. On my 03 Ford it was MOOG or die according to the entire Ford forums. Which is why I was surprised everybody said they were sh1t here. I thought maybe they were just snubbing their nose only to tout their million dollar upgrades. Every forum has them...the guys that eat sleep and breathe Dodge, Chevy, Ford, etc and scream there's absolutely no way you can tow a 2,500# boat without upgrading to a Detroit 12 with airbag suspension, and a snorkle...etc etc ya know ha.

The Mopar ones are priced well enough. I'll just go back to them.

Any thoughts on shocks, or is that another can of worms?

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Hah I understand that. But nah, the guys here are pretty level-headed. They're not meatheads or fanboys. The one still in 3rd gens are die hards, fairly intelligent and responsible at balancing costs for quality for a solid, lasting truck.

On shocks, well, you might want to be open to considering splurging a little on them. The stock coils and rear leaves are stiff for hauling so a better shock will compensate some of those ride issues you're having during tow. I understand trying to be $ conscientious, but also consider achieving the goals for the truck. I'd hate for you to have to buy a cheaper pair that can't handle the truck, still be disappointed and by another pair. Now you paid twice. Just take your time on them while you study suggestions. You'll find the right ones. I like Bilstein 5100s. Makes the truck very surefooted. I'm currently in Thuren Overlands, and I have some Fox 2.0 sitting in the dining room. The ride changed with the addition of a hd replacement bumper and weight change in the back.

On Sway bar links I like Maxx Links.

For track bar I use Thuren, but I use leveling coils so I needed a slightly longer length that it provides over stock. You can replace the bushings on your stock bar with factory parts, or upgrade to aftermarket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hah I understand that. But nah, the guys here are pretty level-headed. They're not meatheads or fanboys. The one still in 3rd gens are die hards, fairly intelligent and responsible at balancing costs for quality for a solid, lasting truck.

On shocks, well, you might want to be open to considering splurging a little on them. The stock coils and rear leaves are stiff for hauling so a better shock will compensate some of those ride issues you're having during tow. I understand trying to be $ conscientious, but also consider achieving the goals for the truck. I'd hate for you to have to buy a cheaper pair that can't handle the truck, still be disappointed and by another pair. Now you paid twice. Just take your time on them while you study suggestions. You'll find the right ones. I like Bilstein 5100s. Makes the truck very surefooted. I'm currently in Thuren Overlands, and I have some Fox 2.0 sitting in the dining room. The ride changed with the addition of a hd replacement bumper and weight change in the back.

On Sway bar links I like Maxx Links.

For track bar I use Thuren, but I use leveling coils so I needed a slightly longer length that it provides over stock. You can replace the bushings on your stock bar with factory parts, or upgrade to aftermarket.
Appreciate it. Gonna go with Maxx links as well.

Think I'm gonna go ahead and go with EMF ball joints too. They are twice as much as a set of Mopar...and I know I'd be doing them at least 1 more time...so might as well get the better ones. Guess the guy that mentioned them had a point...but fk I hate spending $500+ on ball joints.

Ok, last question....what about tie rod brands?

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Appreciate it. Gonna go with Maxx links as well.

Ok, last question....what about tie rod brands?
I went with the updated T-style linkage which includes tie rod ends. It requires a new pitman arm, but that doesn't cost much. You also might need some more 6505623AA Lock Nuts (for tie rod end bolts). Tip... if you install this, I recommend installing the center tie rod end with the bolt facing down through the pitman arm. It wouldn't tighten properly ... sheered the bolt off and almost killed me. I had to get a new tie rod end ... this time one with a castle nut and cotter pin so it wouldn't come loose.

https://www.amazon.com/Mopar-52122362AL-6-Steering/dp/B00N4YPPAO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539981716&sr=8-1&keywords=mopar+upgraded+steering+linkage

https://www.amazon.com/Mopar-68039930AA-Pitman-Arm/dp/B006EFUMEE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539981794&sr=8-2&keywords=mopar+upgraded+steering+linkage
 

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Appreciate it. Gonna go with Maxx links as well.

Think I'm gonna go ahead and go with EMF ball joints too. They are twice as much as a set of Mopar...and I know I'd be doing them at least 1 more time...so might as well get the better ones. Guess the guy that mentioned them had a point...but fk I hate spending $500+ on ball joints.

Ok, last question....what about tie rod brands?

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;) balljoints are the one thing you shouldnt skimp on in these trucks. That engine is damn heavy and the bj's take a kicken. Emf's are the cheaper of the big 3, go price out carli's and you will feel like you made off like a bandit :)

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