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Discussion Starter #1
So my ac went out around the tail end of last summer but i couldn’t afford to have the truck down so i never did anything with it. Fast forward to this Scorching summer and I’m trying to get this issue taken care of before I head down to Arizona to handle my grandfathers estate since his passing. Took the truck to a shop the other day to have them test the system and they said “found a leaking Schrader valve, system still had freon, clutch engages, simply wont cool.” They mentioned it possibly being a blend door issue but to my understanding that wouldn’t Necessarily make the system not cool at all it would just not be very efficient. Just now i wired the compressor straight off the battery to in fact see if giving it direct power would rule out any electrical issue if it did actually cool, but nothing no cooling at all in the cab.

Anyone got any ideas on anything else i could check before turning it back over to them this Monday?

thanks
 

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Your orifice tube may be plugged. I have an 08 6.7 and my orifice valve is in the line right along the passenger side behind the battery (along the fender). I had replaced my whole system year before last but I was lazy and did not replace the line with the orifice tube and ended up having to redo the ENTIRE system last year, all lines and the evap core in the dash. Was not pressurized on the high side and burnt up the compressor... When I ended up pulling the system last year I could not get the line broke loose off of the evap core and ended up breaking the evap core line itself, leading to the entire dash being pulled to replace the core. I know they're different trucks but from what I've read the orifice tube is a common blocking point for the freon, which then doesn't allow your high side to feed the system which results in no cool air.

08 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 6.7 Cummins 68RFE Mega Cab SLT - DPF & EGR Delete H&S Mini Maxx w/ Trans Unlock running Performance Tune - Nixon Transmission Entry Level 550 hp Dual Disc Low Stall Converter Billet Valve Body High Pressure Pump - 295/70/R17 MT's on stock alloys 314,500
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks @ChaotusCummins083500 for the recommendation. Really have grown to hate the air conditioner in this truck its been nothing but junk since the beginning, went out on me before and I literally replaced everything in the system except for the condenser. That was about 4 years ago, so its really sh*tty that I'm once again wrestling with this a/c
 

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No prob man. From what I've read they're a pain no matter what if you can keep them working. I'm happy Mines lasted a year so far, but I have had to replace the clutch pulley and recharge with some r-134 because when I lost the other clutch pulley the system overcharged and purged itself... Like I said just happy I've had cold air for a year lol. Now by condenser you mean the cooler in the front of the truck right? Not the evaporator core in the dash? Cuz I've heard of the condenser getting smashed and blocking the flow of the system too, may be something to replace if you have to open the system back up again. Condensers can be had for pretty cheap, just not mopar brand... But since the Mopar system on these trucks don't seem to last that long anyways, why not take the chance with some cheap aftermarket? Lol til you gotta change the clutch pulley after 30k lol but all jokes aside I've only got a Mopar evaporator core in my system, everything else is aftermarket.

08 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 6.7 Cummins 68RFE Mega Cab SLT - DPF & EGR Delete H&S Mini Maxx w/ Trans Unlock running Performance Tune - Nixon Transmission Entry Level 550 hp Dual Disc Low Stall Converter Billet Valve Body High Pressure Pump - 295/70/R17 MT's on stock alloys 314,500
 

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And hey brother, that's 4 years more than some people get, and 3 more than me so far! Not that it makes it any less of a pain in the ass, just thought mayb different perspective might help ease the woe

08 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 6.7 Cummins 68RFE Mega Cab SLT - DPF & EGR Delete H&S Mini Maxx w/ Trans Unlock running Performance Tune - Nixon Transmission Entry Level 550 hp Dual Disc Low Stall Converter Billet Valve Body High Pressure Pump - 295/70/R17 MT's on stock alloys 314,500
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No prob man. From what I've read they're a pain no matter what if you can keep them working. I'm happy Mines lasted a year so far, but I have had to replace the clutch pulley and recharge with some r-134 because when I lost the other clutch pulley the system overcharged and purged itself... Like I said just happy I've had cold air for a year lol. Now by condenser you mean the cooler in the front of the truck right? Not the evaporator core in the dash? Cuz I've heard of the condenser getting smashed and blocking the flow of the system too, may be something to replace if you have to open the system back up again. Condensers can be had for pretty cheap, just not mopar brand... But since the Mopar system on these trucks don't seem to last that long anyways, why not take the chance with some cheap aftermarket? Lol til you gotta change the clutch pulley after 30k lol but all jokes aside I've only got a Mopar evaporator core in my system, everything else is aftermarket.

08 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 6.7 Cummins 68RFE Mega Cab SLT - DPF & EGR Delete H&S Mini Maxx w/ Trans Unlock running Performance Tune - Nixon Transmission Entry Level 550 hp Dual Disc Low Stall Converter Billet Valve Body High Pressure Pump - 295/70/R17 MT's on stock alloys 314,500
Yes when I said I didn't replace the condenser the air cooler is exactly what I meant, mine doesn't appear to be to beat up but maybe I should have replaced it back when I did it all. Throwing money at A/C seriously blows (pun intended)
 

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Lol indeed!

08 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 6.7 Cummins 68RFE Mega Cab SLT - DPF & EGR Delete H&S Mini Maxx w/ Trans Unlock running Performance Tune - Nixon Transmission Entry Level 550 hp Dual Disc Low Stall Converter Billet Valve Body High Pressure Pump - 295/70/R17 MT's on stock alloys 314,500
 

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I only replaced mine cuz the line broke while trying to remove the high pressure line from the firewall, but I've heard unless you vacuum the system first there's a possibility air can get in the lines, honestly dude the "Schrader" valve the shop was talking to you about is the orifice tube I was talking about, can get a kit with a new accumulator and condenser with both high and low lines on Amazon for about 100 bucks, but ask the shop about a quote for replacing just the line and recharging your system, may be about the same either way. Make sure to account for the fact you'll have to buy new freon if you do it yourself.

08 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 6.7 Cummins 68RFE Mega Cab SLT - DPF & EGR Delete H&S Mini Maxx w/ Trans Unlock running Performance Tune - Nixon Transmission Entry Level 550 hp Dual Disc Low Stall Converter Billet Valve Body High Pressure Pump - 295/70/R17 MT's on stock alloys 314,500
 

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Not all are bad. After replacing the Compressor (was my leak), the orifice line, and the dryer I am on my 6th summer with no issues.
 
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I replaced everything but the evap core when I got the truck and this is my 4th summer now with no issues. Freezes me out like a champ in 95*+ temps.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You guys who have been having success which parts did you go with? The replacement compressor that i have right now is a four seasons from rock auto. If i do end up pulling parts I’d like to know of any i should steer clear of. I know dodge parts is gonna be mentioned but i wasn’t impressed with the life i got outta them when i bought the truck new in 05
 

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Nothing wrong with 4 seasons.
All my parts came from rockauto.com GPD is the brand.
 
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If the valve core is leaking it can be replaced. You'll need one of these tool to do it. There may be others on the market besides Mastercool. Or you can replace the entire line along with the port and call it a day.With the tool, the core can be removed with the system under pressure.Replacing the line will require refrigerant removal,reclaiming it, system evacuation and recharge. Plus it is recommended to replace the accumulator/dryer at the same time. I plan on replacing my compressor,condensor,lines and acc/dryer in the next few weeks. Hopefully when it's cooler outside.....

 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well she don’t break to often but she sure does shoot for the moon when she does, master muffler ran some test and it turns out me evaporator core has a leak, tech even had me come out in the bay to show the sniffer tester going nuts in my passenger side vent. So for now it’s gonna have to wait because i don’t have a grand that i can dump into the truck right now to get some cold air flowing. Plus i figure summer should be tapering off here soon enough so i can gather up all the parts i need because if I’m gonna rip the dash out then I’m gonna do everything to include putting in a whole blend door USA upgrade kit. So when the time comes I’ll replace that evaporator, the heater core, and all the doors. Hopefully then I’ll have a functioning system.
 
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