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#1 what injection pump is best
#2 what size exhaust
#3 edge vs adrenaline
#4 bhaf questions
#5 intake horn questions
#6 clutch questions
#7 automatic transmissions
#8 lift pumps
#9 when do i need a cam?
#10 what injectors do i need?
#11 what turbo do i need?
#12 what are connector tubes?
#13 do i need bigger injector lines?
#14 what does p-pumping my truck mean?
#15 what are traction bars?
#16 what does the hot unlock do on edge?
#17 why should i add 2 stroke oil to my fuel?
#18 what does adjusting the valves do?
#19 what can i stack with my chip/programmer?
#20 how much horse power is my truck putting out?
#21 When do i need head studs?
#22 What is o-ringing/fire ringing?
#23 How do i remove my silencer ring?
#24 Why do i need gauges/ what gauges should i get?
#25 What is a turbo charger, how does it work, what types are there?
#26 how do i get better fuel mileage?
#27 Can i run a mechinical fuel pump for a lift pump?
#28 where can I buy _____ at the best price?

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i agree, everyone says use the search engine, but honestly you do have to go threw 30pages of stuff to half @$$ answer their question, a chart would be nice or just a nice correct straight foward answer would be nice.

for instance
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#1 which injection pump is the best?

that depends on your horse power goals

SOvp44 is good for rite around 650hp/one of the more realiable pumps

Monsters/scheids are good for high numbers/loose reliablity

hotrod/bd pump is good for a stock truck looking for some extra go, but also can conflict with certain chips/programers with timing
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#2 exhaust(not including stacks)
4inch is more mild and less deep better for you unless you are over 500hp

5inch is the deepest less raspy, if you plan on going over 500hp recommend this exhaust, or if you just want the sound.
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#3 edge vs quad

both are very good chips, both have their positives and negatives

both will add about the same amount of horsepower

edge has great customer service

quad has more customization, quad is currently out of business also

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#4 BHAF questions.

end of story for 50$ it is the best deal on an intake around. i would only recommend going with a different brand if you are flowing alot of air (big single or twins)

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/143145-bhaf.html
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#5 intake horns

you can spend the money else where because of how expensive they are, they will increase the horsepower, but not very much, the cheapest one around is bryds diesel(150$) off ebay, also the 2nd gen intake horn is flows plenty for most people
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#6 clutch questions

all depend on what you plan on doing with your truck, honestly i think calling southbend or valair is the best way to get advice on what you need, they know what they are talking about and they wont just try to sell you their best one becaue they profit more.
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#7 automatics

end of story the stock automatics dont like power adders, i wouldnt go over a edge ez or something similar on a stock one, even then you are asking for trouble, do it rite and buy a valvebody and Torque converter before you do power adding mods, some reputable names are DTT, SUNCOAST, GOREND, ATS(lack of customer service)
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#8 AN AFTER MARKET LIFT PUMP IS A MUST EVEN IF YOU ARNT GOING TO MOD YOUR TRUCK!!!

the stock lift pump has a bad design and fails all the time end of story
airdog is a very good brand(comes with a draw straw!)
FASS is also a very good brand(life time warranty!)

both brands are both basically the same!! both have water serperators and good fuel filters

RAPTOR is the pair minimum of a lift pump that is good/reliable for moded trucks. it is just the pump, but it will flow enough fuel

Holly Blue/Carter pumps are not worth the time and cash. do it rite the first time and get a airdog,fass, or raptor

FASS DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR THE STOCK LIFT PUMP IS NOT ENOUGH I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH!!!


Heres a great write up for install of the airdog/fass products! enjoy!

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...ion/260621-fass-install-here.html#post2784036

More links to lift pump threads
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/247980-son-return-new-guy-info.html
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...fficial-how-install-raptor-150-drawstraw.html
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...ig-line-kit-fuel-psi.html?highlight=lift+pump
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...el-pressure-too-much.html?highlight=lift+pump
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...og-ii-df-165-install.html?highlight=lift+pump
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...ation-sucess-stories.html?highlight=lift+pump
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/44567-fass-vs-air-dog.html?highlight=lift+pump
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...nce/36644-running-fass-stock-fuel-heater.html
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...nce/12059-afs-walbro-fuel-system-install.html
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...draw-straw-ii-big-line-fp-relocation-kit.html
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...ance/8792-vulcan-draw-straw-installation.html
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-modifications/3378-what-pusher-pump-why-use-one.html
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-modifications/71-upgrade-oem-lift-pump.html
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-technical-diagnostics/980-anatomy-lift-pump.html
http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm
http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cummins/2ndgen24v/lift-pump-diag/lift-pump-daig.htm

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#9 When do i need a cam in my truck?

believe it or not, the stock cams are ussualy more than enough for your daily driver, unless you have money or alot of time and really have your mind set on this i would personally leave it alone. the stock cam can and has handled well over 600hp+ on these trucks. it is a 10-20 hour job depending on ur skill level for a do it yourselfer. A cam will not make a diesel lope!!!
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#10 what injectors should i get

i am guilty of asking this question myself so i will post my knowledge on this subject

the size of ur injector depends on alot of variables, turbo size, fuel pump, which programmer, and what you do to the truck

the biggest injector i would recommend for a truck with a stock turbo with a box is 100hp injectors. without a box you can get away with 150's

the best advice for finding the rite injector for ur truck is to call a shop vendor here on the forum! they do know what they are talking about and are more then willing to help! after all they need all the customers they can get!

some brands of injectors are

f1's, ddps, farmboydiesel, injector parts, edge jammers(they are listed in best to worst order in my opinion)

injector nozzles are another thing you can do.

with injector nozzles you take your stock injector and remove the nozzle( can have anywhere from 6 holes to 10holes) and put ur new nozzle on. after you get them to put on you NEED to get them pop tested to make sure everything is working rite(wouldnt want to put them back in to have one injector not popping off rite) in my opinion and most others it is better just to get new injectors. turbo do i need?

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...216850-all-injector-info-youll-ever-want.html

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/219043-injectors-turbos.html

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/216421-injector-myth.html
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#11 do i need a bigger turbo?

for most modded trucks the stock turbo(either an hx35 or a hy35) will suffer. an edge juice or quad box will put ur turbo to its limits.

some suitable upgrades for a lighty modded truck are the hx35/40 hybird(its a hx35 turbo machined to accept a hx-40 compressor blade) the hx40(beware of weak shafts) and retrofitting a he351(use the search button for patracy he has a nice write up on this)

there are many options out there, calling a vendor on the site here will get you results pretty fast, just remember turbos arnt cheap so dont expect to get one for 100$!!, you get what you pay for when it comes to turbos.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/219043-injectors-turbos.html
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#12 What are connecter tubes?

connecter tubes are tubes that connect your injection lines to your injector.

you can buy .093 tubes that will flow more fuel, unless you have large injectors/injection pump you will see no gain from these besides the possiblity of a lope.

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#13 do i need bigger injector lines?

the answer is ussualy no. unless your running a p7100 pump or a monster, scheid vp44 you dont need these, they will be nearly impossible to drive on an automatic, and more than likey you will loose your powersteering/power brakes unless you have an aftermarket injection pump to push enough fuel through these lines.
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#14 What is p-pumping my truck?

p-pumping is a term used when someone takes a 12valve 5.9 cummins engines mechanical fuel pump and retrofits the 24valve engine to use it. The p7100 pump can flow alot more fuel then the vp44 injection pump. the swap contains a long lengthy process and also cost a shiny penny(even if you do the labor yourself) if you are set on doing this swap, there is a section on the forum decated for it. i believe matthew8pt has a nice write up on this!

heres the forum section
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...formance-parts-discussion/98...mp-conversion/

and heres matthew's write up!
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-24v-p-pump-conversion/157104-p-pumped-24v-tech-w-pics.html

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#15 what do traction bars do?

traction bars help with wheel hop(when the leafspring bends into a S shape and snaps back creates wheel hop)

they also help from the axle from wrapping(link posted below explains these perfectly)

http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=dVaHaRKJL0A


http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cummins-pulling/258547-diy-traction-bars.html
i would recommend traction bars for any truck regardless of level of modification!

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#16 what does the hot unlock code do for me?

the hot unlock on the edge juice raises the defueling point from 2700rpm to 3200rpm(basically you get a longer rpm band to mess around with)
there is no power difference between level 5 and 6, just fuels longer up in the rpms! you can call edge products and ask them also.

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#17 why should i add 2-stroke oil to my diesel fuel?

the reason some of us forum memebers add 2-stroke oil to our diesel fuel is because when our trucks were designed the diesel fuel had a higher sulpher count PPM then it does now. the sulpher acts as a lubericat in our fuel system, therefore, when they removed it out of the diesel fuel our fuel systems lost lubication! by adding the 2-stroke oil you add luberication back into the fuel! be careful not to add to much! the ratio i use is 1 oz of 2 stroke oil(liquid oz) for every gallon of diesel fuel, so if i put 16 gallons of diesel fuel into my tank i add 16oz(liquid oz) of 2 stroke oil to my fuel. the only 2 stroke oil you should is twc-3 outboard! heres a link to moparmans site who has a very nice article about it!
http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/c...-cycle-oil.htm

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#18 why do i need to adjust my valves on my truck?

overtime, the intake and exhaust valves losen out of there factory specs, and can become nosiey and sometimes even brake if not maintanced! ive done it to my truck! it quiets everything down and gives you a nice peice of mind knowing its done correct! it takes about 30-40mins at home by yourself! here is a link to a great article about it written by moparman once again!
http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/c.../valve-adj.htm

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#19 what can i stack with my chip/programmer?

Depending on your chip programmer you alreadly have there can be a few options! here is a link to an article directed towards this!

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...iscussion/202233-chip-stacking-look-here.html

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#20 how much horse power is my truck putting out?

to be honest there is no way of telling you your exact horsepower/torque without a dyno test, but here is a link to a section where people have shared their horsepower/torque numbers and the mods they used to get there!

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...scussion/229737-please-post-dyno-results.html

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#21 When do i need to get head studs?

I would suggest upgrading to head studs after reaching 40-45psi of boost, you could get away with tightening the stock head bolts to 125ft/lbs but its still a gamble then, do it rite and get studs after a turbo upgrade or injectors! its quality insurance to avoid a expensive/timely problem! HEAD GASKET FAILURE! Most people will be fine with 12mm studs but if your running higher boost numbers i would suggest upgrading to the 14mm studs, but, they require tapping the block.

heres a nice link to the subject

http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/dodge/1003dp_1989_dodge_ram_d250_upgrade/index.html

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#22 what is o-ringing the head? fire-ringing?


O-rings are where you cut the head for a stainless steel ring, the gasket is the same as a stocker. Fire rings are where the head AND the block are cut on a mill, and a stainless wire is installed between them. The gasket is cut so the fire ring on the gasket is removed. The wire takes its place, and is clamped extremely tightly between the head and the block. However, fire rings have a tendency to crack because the block and the head cool (expand and contract) at different rates. Once they crack, the head has to be pulled and new wire installed.

If its your daily driven truck, stick with O-Rings, and stud the head
If its your sled/race truck, get fire-rings and stud the head also!

heres a nice link for o-ringing!

http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/dodge/1003dp_1989_dodge_ram_d250_upgrade/index.html

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#23 How do i remove my silencer ring?

The silencer ring is a ring place in the turbo to hold in a airduct the directs air into the turbo, to put it in short terms it just dampens the whistle of the turbo and wont hurt your performance! heres a great link to a write up! its not a 1998.5 -2002 dodge cummins but it is a dodge cummins and the principle is the same!

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-c...emoval-cummins-diesel-ram-by-local-yokel.html

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#24 Why do i need gauges/what gauges do i need?

Basically you need gauges to montior what is happening to your truck, gauges show you what is going on with certain parts of the truck, examples are for instance, boost psi, tranmission temp, fuel psi(this one is very important), EGT's(exhaust gas tempatures, also very important)!.

Gauges are in my mind one of the greatest mods to get for a truck, they can save you from ruining parts on your engine/transmission!

i would recommend the following gauges!

BOOST
FUEL PRESSURE!!!!! helps make sure you dont kill/harm your vp44/injection pump!
EGT!!! helps make sure you dont melt your engine!
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION TEMP!!! dont wanna burn up your transmission!(dont really need this if your have a manual transmission)

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#25 what is a turbo charger, how does it work, what types are there?

Not really worth typing anything! the link explains everything youll need to know!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbocharger


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#26 How do I improve my fuel mileage?

You need gauges, keep egt s below 600* turbine in, boost below 5psi, as driving habits are the most critical, and remember idleing is always 0 mpg. Air your tires up, you are running a d load range at the minimum right?! Next comes a free flowing intake and exhaust, followed by a fuel/timing box and some good injectors, between +40 and +100 hp.

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#27 Can i run a mecanical fuel pump for a lift pump?

http://www.dieseltrans.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=523

there is a link to the mechanical fuel pump

and to qoute about the pressure


Quote:
What kind of pressures does the RASP system run? I have spoken to a lot of people that have been advising KO ENGINEERING on what the pressures should be. The answer from Bosch & Cummins is 14 PSI. You do not want to exceed this for the best life on your VP 44 pump. (a lot of you already know that on the Dodge Rams if you try to run 20 –25 PSI at an idle with the electric fuel pumps, starting the vehicle becomes tough as you would have already hydraulic the VP 44 pump. In turn shortening the life of the VP 44 pump.

Pressure setting on the RASP system: 12-14 PSI. While you can turn it up, I strongly recommend you do not do that, as YOU WILL shorten the life your VP 44.

If I turn the pressure up on KO’S RASP fuel pump system against KO Engineering’s advise will it effect the warranty on the pump system? no it will not. (for testing purposes we did turn the pump up to 55 PSI, the only thing we succeeded in doing was destroy the VP 44 pump.)
Electric fuel pumps run higher pressures at an idle to maintain pressures at wide-open throttle. Most of you guys running fuel pressure gauges already know this, as soon as you start stomping on your accelerator you watch the fuel gauge and start panicking if the pressures start to drop.
The R.A.S.P fuel system is the exact opposite. The higher the engine RPMS the more pump volume is available. No more having to worry about getting on the go pedal.

How is the pressure controlled on the R.A.S.P system?
It uses a bypass valve, which is controlled by a spring. Anything above 14 PSI simply gets returned back to the tank.

There are no wearable parts in the bypass system unlike a fuel regulator . It simply uses a spring and a valve.

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#28 Where can I buy _____ at the best price?

Post up a price request in our vendor forums and give the guys who support this site a chance to help. :thumbsup:

Site Sponsors - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

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if anyone has anything else they want me to add just post it up and ill add it into the post!
 

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this is great.. thank you for taking the time to do this
 

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Discussion Starter #3
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Sticky it to the TOP.....please. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ya i was trying to think of a better title. for it. but if someone does post a question relateing to the information in this. someone can just post a link and save some time. that was my goal honestly.
 

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how about in the lift pump section you through in a couple of the mechanical lift pumps? like GDP Boss Fuel Pump or MITUSA fuel pump. These are releatively untalked about, but everyone who has one loves them.
 

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another vote for being stickied, very good info. have some time on your hands i take it?:thumbsup:
 

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Looks good man

Hope you dont mind i edited it a little to make it easier to read and i added something to your section on cams.

Lets see if we can get some more links to add into it and we can get this stickied
 

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btw, your top list doesnt match up with the individual answers. need to swap out #2 and #4. just a little cosmetic change :) sorry im a PIA like that.

only suggestion i would see is adding in links to popular threads on the subjects.
 

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I'll make it a sticky. If you'll keep updating the thread I'll clean the other posts once the master list is updated.
 

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Got P7100?
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btw, your top list doesnt match up with the individual answers. need to swap out #2 and #4. just a little cosmetic change :) sorry im a PIA like that.

only suggestion i would see is adding in links to popular threads on the subjects.
fixed it

Nice. This could be the sticky of all stickys... Heres a BHAF thread with several part #s http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/143145-bhaf.html

added it:thumbsup:
 

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Awesome!

Really appreciate the time taken in this thread. Awesome info for newbies of the diesel world like me :drool2:
 

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How bout when do i need head studs
 

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Looks like this'll be a good sticky! I agree with adding in something about mechanical pumps (even though they aren't used by many - I hear they are really reliable)..
 

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Discussion Starter #19
the reason i didint added the mechanical lift pumps to this is because if its belt driven. the fuel pressure would rise way over the recommended fuel pressure for a vp44. in my mind that could cause damage. but im gonna add stuff over time and yes i did get very board last nite haha so i thought i would help pass my knowledge and others to people who can use it!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
alright guys i added some more information! head studs, o-ringing, silencer ring etc. im gonna add gauges in to!
 
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