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Stock wheels vs aftermarket for towing

23K views 22 replies 12 participants last post by  Jetursi 
#1 ·
So I just bought a 2019 3500 longbed and wanting to do some 35s on 20s but a friend keeps telling me unless I do forged wheels or keep stock wheels and just put bigger tires on there is a good chance I will crack rims with most aftermarket cast aluminum wheels with what I’m towing. I have a 40 foot 5th wheel toy hauler when fully loaded I’m probably around 17500. Not to sound cheap but I’m not looking to spend over 3k for forged wheels. Any alternative solutions?
 

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#2 · (Edited)
There are plenty of wheels out there (cast) that meet or exceed the factory load ratings. Your friend was not wrong in that there are many, many wheel options that look good but are inferior in strength. Its up to you to actualy pay attention to the rating when choosing a wheel/tire combo.

My current 18" wheels and 35" tires both exceed factory load ratings.

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#4 ·
Any wheel can crack. I have had factory wheels crack on several vehicles. Potholes, curbing, blowouts, etc. No wheel is immune regardless its type. If you get a quality wheel and tire combo thats rated for the loads and speeds you will be doing and you drive responsibly (unlike my ex) the chances of it happening are very small.

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#11 ·
I had these exact wheels on my 2018 srw 3500.
They still looked new after a year.

Mine were 18x9 with 295/70/18 Nitto Ridge Grapplers that we’re rated for 4080 pounds. I think the tires were 34.2” diameter.

Very good looking setup on a reverse leveled truck. I never had to balance the tires after initial installation and I hauled my 30’ gooseneck horse trailer all over the country.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Method has some nice wheels for HD trucks. Not a huge fan of the fake headlocks but it is what it is. Before I knew any better I ran some cheap pro-comp wheels and towed heavy. My tires were rated for the load but the wheels—not so much. I had a wheel failure around the lug nut area just west of OKC (years ago and on an 08). Thankfully I felt an odd vibration and pulled over before it completely failed. My advice starts with this:

Since you’re towing a 5th wheel, what’s your rear axle weight fully loaded?

I’m guessing 6800-7k or so? Find that out and purchase tires and wheels that exceed your planned rear axle weight. I like to have a little bit of a pad for peace of mind. For your truck (3500 SRW) the tire and or wheel rating is going to be your limiting factor. Guys with 2500’s have to worry about suspension too. You, thankfully, have the same suspension as the DRWs. Additionally, the axle is rated well beyond what you’ll be able to find tires and wheel ratings.

This discussion typically opens up the MFG tow ratings can of worms, which I’m intentionally avoiding.

Hope this helps!
 
#21 ·
What offset and rim size? Don't they offer them in different offsets? Trying to figure out my the wheels I'm going to get. I've been seeing 17" methods on the 19' HDs and I don't know how they fit around brakes also feel like that would be to much sideway with a 35 or 37" tire.

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#22 ·
I have the same issue on my '15 2500.

Its time for new tires, and I'm going 295/65r20 nitto trail grappler rated at 4080lb each. Figured I'd get new wheels too while I'm at it, found a great deal on some SOTA/BMF REPR 20x10. 400 bucks for the set. Advertised rated at 3600lb but I'm too chicken to put them on with the tongue weight of my 5th wheel and my experience with aftermarket parts.

I look forward to your conclusion OP.

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#23 ·
Didn't Sota go out of business or something. My problem now is finding a 35 or 37 to mount on a 17 with load capacity for these trucks. If we didn't tow it wouldn't be a issue. I do get why your skeptic about aftermarket wheels with a heavy trailer. Method does make HD wheels.

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