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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Passed the 7000 mile/6 month mark with the new 2012 and the dpf headaches have started big time ... and probably 90% of my miles have been hwy so far. So, I found a new XRT Pro and need to handle the exhaust. I wanted to do a full TBE so I have the full stock exhaust to return to stock when I trade or sell this truck in a few years. Wanted to wait til spring for this but that's not gonna happen so I'd rather just do a dpf delete pipe for now at least ... easier to return to stock if need be also.
When I do return to stock, do I need the stock downpipe/cat in place for the system to function properly or will any downpipe work? Is it just the dpf that NEEDS to be there or are the cat, nox and dpf all required? I guess I could have just asked ... Do I need the entire stock system in place to return ECM to stock? I'm guessing I do.
 

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two sensors in the stock downpipe

and to add taking the downpipe of is rather easy. specialy if you have a good impact to drop the cross member
 
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to pass emissions inspection all equipment must be in place and functioning properly so in short, yes you will have to put it back on.

like said, its actually pretty easy if you have an impact. put a jack under the trans, drop the cross memeber and unbolt where the down pipe attaches to the rest of the exhaust. if you are dont have a lift and are doing it on the ground then drop the spare tire, put a jack under the hitch and jack the rear of the truck up a few inches. this will give you enough clearance to slide the entire exhaust system out from under the truck. you will be twisting and turning and guiding it out from about where the front of the bed meets the cab. minus the downpipe of course. this way you dont have to ever disconnect anything else.

so couple sensors, 3 nuts on exhaust, 1 clamp on downpipe at turbo, drop cross member, jack under trans, drop spare, jack rear of the truck up a few inches, done...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Appreciate the tips.
heh heh, I've done plenty of exhaust work in my day but I got a peek at this one while the truck was up on the hoist at the dealer and got a little overwhelmed. I had read the tranny cross member had to be dropped ... didn't sound like a lot of fun in the driveway in the winter here but I guess we'll see eh. Just waiting on some parts now.
 

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Granted, I was able to use big Larrys lift, I used all hand tools to remove the exhaust hardware. Truck had 6500 miles on it, so nothing was seized up. I used a line wrench on the probes...i forget the size though. Removal of the stock exhaust was very easy and installation of the tbe was the same. Wrap a decent amount of rags or old shirts around the tail pipe so it dont whack your paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks, I assume a "line wrench" is not a Must have to remove the probes?
When reading through and searching for the replacement exhaust I saw the "with bungs" and "without bungs" but assumed this only applied to the fuel lines. I came across an MBRP pic that said "Manufactured with sensor bung connections" ... so if I buy a TBE exhaust "with bungs" does this mean that ALL the stock sensors and lines are reconnected to the new exhaust and I don't have to worry about the open connectors/connections? Or is it better to just buy the Shibby connectors and exhaust "without bungs"? Or both? Being up in the salt-laiden north, I want to this right.
 

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leave all the sensors on the removed exhaust parts just unplug connectors get new exhaust without bungs or you will be needing plugs to fill them in
 
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Questions that have been answered and discussed ad infinitum. Search would save terabytes of storage on the CF server.
You are a world class douche bag. Forums are here to help people, if you don't want to be a part of it, then leave.
Every person has questions, and there are plenty of them that vary even the slightest detail. It is so much easier to ask his question, than search for hours for the proper answer.
He asked a question that is very easily answerable without your retarded comments.
 
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Line wrenches are not a must have, but its better to use them as they wont round off the sensore plug hex nearly as easily as standard wrenches. They are most commonly used on brake lines, if that helps. They "grab" more of the hex. As I said before, I dont remember the size, but they are metric, so keep that in mind if youre planning on buying a set. The only non metric hardware was the band clamp that connects the down pipe to the turbo. I believe it was 7/16, if I remember right. Also, it would help to spray a bit of penetrating lube on the probes. Mine came out, but the lube never hurts.
I zip tied my probes to the truck in case I had to return to stock. The rest of the electrical connections were closed off with black electrical tape.
 

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Would suggest shooting some dielectric grease into the connections before covering with electrical tape. Will keep them brand new looking for the life of the truck or atleast until the electrical tape comes off.
 

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I have the XRT/delete pipe combo and have had to return to stock once for dealer service. It took me about an hour combined to replace the DPF/nox and then replace the delete pipe including retune. If I had to do it again I would take the same route. The downpipe (CAT delete) just adds about 45min to the R&R process & doesn't add much performance gain IMHO. I had about 5k miles when I originally deleted & 13k when I changed it back for the dealer trip. I leave all the sensors on the stock pieces when I remove them & zip tie the OEM connectors to the adjacent looms - haven't needed any line wrenches so far. I just covered the connector ends with tape - but I'm from GA so that's just how we do things down here.
 
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