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A few years ago after almost driving into a few highway barriers due to death wobble I had the 4th gen T-style linkage installed. I usually do my own research and install’s but I was working 6 hours from home this time so I just dropped it off at 4wheel parts.

I recently installed a leveling kit. I have a few clunks in the suspension now but as they are sitting at a different angle I feel this is not an immediate concern. I have notice a loud clunk felt in the steering wheel twice in reverse close to full lock. Assumed it was tire clearance issues until today.

I am ordering the upgraded steering linkage for my old mans truck. When reading the available options and reviews everyone was saying that the pitman arm needs to be upgraded as well. Mine was not. I have not been able to look to confirm if I am having some sort of bind up but it seems logical to think that lifting the front end 2” could increase the chance of a bind up.

Just liking to see what the opinions are in here.

Thanks


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Ram specifies their upgraded pitman arm with the newer components. It's a slightly different angle. Concerning the clunk,be sure your trackbar is super tightened down. Like breaker bar tight.
 

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More like a breaker bar with a cheater tight.
 
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Ram specifies their upgraded pitman arm with the newer components. It's a slightly different angle. Concerning the clunk,be sure your trackbar is super tightened down. Like breaker bar tight.
I tightened it down approximately 20% over factory specs plus one extra pull. More torque than required to loosen the bolt. Pretty sure the clunking up front is from the passenger side LCA that I loosened. Overtightened that as well but the old bushings might not like the new position. Odd thing is the rear now has an almost identical sounding suspension clunk.

Anyhow, thanks for the response. I’ll check out the pitman arm difference when I install it on the old mans truck. It definitely is not required as many say. At least not in all situations. Other than the one or two mound clunks felt in the steering wheel after the lift it works very good as it.

Alright, I just wrote the word clunk down way too many times!


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I got the different angle pitman arm when I did mine, and looking at the difference I don't think the old one would hit anything but it's close and the angle you can definitely see how the new one would wear less on the drag link joints. However, I did not feel like like paying $90 for a mopar branded chunk of steel so I ended up going with an aftermarket Delphi pitman arm for $22 plus shipping, it worked just fine. You just need to find the mopar part number and search on rockauto.

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I got the different angle pitman arm when I did mine, and looking at the difference I don't think the old one would hit anything but it's close and the angle you can definitely see how the new one would wear less on the drag link joints. However, I did not feel like like paying $90 for a mopar branded chunk of steel so I ended up going with an aftermarket Delphi pitman arm for $22 plus shipping, it worked just fine. You just need to find the mopar part number and search on rockauto.

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I went to the dealer to buy the Mopar arm and the salesguy said "do you want the $25 one or the Mopar $80 one? I chose the first one. hard to believe he had cheapy ones in stock.
 

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I'm pretty sure the taper is different as well, because if you buy the Mopar 6 bolt box for example, they provide a new linkage end if you have Y style steering to be able to use the new arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I got the different angle pitman arm when I did mine, and looking at the difference I don't think the old one would hit anything but it's close and the angle you can definitely see how the new one would wear less on the drag link joints. However, I did not feel like like paying $90 for a mopar branded chunk of steel so I ended up going with an aftermarket Delphi pitman arm for $22 plus shipping, it worked just fine. You just need to find the mopar part number and search on rockauto.

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Thanks for the input. This is one area I have no problem running a knockoff.


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I went to the dealer to buy the Mopar arm and the salesguy said "do you want the $25 one or the Mopar $80 one? I chose the first one. hard to believe he had cheapy ones in stock.
Good info, I’ll call my local dealer and see what they say. If he says it’s $90 I’ll tell him I’m looking for the $25 one!


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I'm pretty sure the taper is different as well, because if you buy the Mopar 6 bolt box for example, they provide a new linkage end if you have Y style steering to be able to use the new arm.
I think I’m following you but if this is the case wouldn’t it mean the upgrade pitman arm that is being sold with the steering linkage upgrade wouldn’t be compatible with the standard 3rd gen steering box shaft? Or maybe it’s just that the 3rd gen pitman arm doesn’t work in the 4th gen steering box (I’m assuming this is the case). Thanks


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I tightened it down approximately 20% over factory specs plus one extra pull. More torque than required to loosen the bolt. Pretty sure the clunking up front is from the passenger side LCA that I loosened. Overtightened that as well but the old bushings might not like the new position. Odd thing is the rear now has an almost identical sounding suspension clunk.

Anyhow, thanks for the response. I’ll check out the pitman arm difference when I install it on the old mans truck. It definitely is not required as many say. At least not in all situations. Other than the one or two mound clunks felt in the steering wheel after the lift it works very good as it.

Alright, I just wrote the word clunk down way too many times!


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The new pitman arm is a necessity for the upgraded linkage. You will tremendously shorten the life of your steering linkage and steering gear. Because the varied geometry won't be in synchronization with each other. You will develope terrible bump steer.
 

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One more question on this topic. I don’t remember this very clearly but I believe the 3rd gen linkage uses castle nuts with cotter pins in some areas but the hardware that comes with the upgrade does not allow you to use a cotter pin. I remember reading that some guys would drill to be able to use a pin. 4wheel parts installed mine and there are no cotter pins. I don’t see any lock tire either. They have not been an issue and it’s been a couple years so I’m not concerned just curious what everyone’s experience was regarding this?


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One more question on this topic. I don’t remember this very clearly but I believe the 3rd gen linkage uses castle nuts with cotter pins in some areas but the hardware that comes with the upgrade does not allow you to use a cotter pin. I remember reading that some guys would drill to be able to use a pin. 4wheel parts installed mine and there are no cotter pins. I don’t see any lock tire either. They have not been an issue and it’s been a couple years so I’m not concerned just curious what everyone’s experience was regarding this?


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I noticed the lack of a pinhole when I upgraded. My thoughts regarding it go as follows:
1. No pinhole means a stronger shaft
2. The tie rod ends do not use pins and they are just as critical to functional steering, in fact, the tie rod ends will actually fall out if the nut comes off whereas the pitman link will stay in with gravity and just rattle around, therefore the castle nut/pin seems excessive to me.
All that considered, I tightened everything to the torque specs and used a nylock nut plus a little blue loctite in place of the castle nut on mine.

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If they did an alignment, make sure the driver side tie rod is parallel to the knuckle. Very important. If it is not, it will clunk and eventually, some day snap. If it isn’t, loosen the adjuster sleeve nut and turn it yourself and make it correct.



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I think I’m following you but if this is the case wouldn’t it mean the upgrade pitman arm that is being sold with the steering linkage upgrade wouldn’t be compatible with the standard 3rd gen steering box shaft? Or maybe it’s just that the 3rd gen pitman arm doesn’t work in the 4th gen steering box (I’m assuming this is the case). Thanks


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Not totally sure I follow. 3rd gen original box is a 4 bolt box with a super tiny sector shaft. Upgraded 3rd gen box is a 6 bolt box with the 4th gen style massive sector shaft. Requires a completely different pitman arm.

So there are 3 pitman arm styles available to the 3rd gens (4 if you count doing an actual 4th gen box swap but that still acts the same as 3rd gen 6 bolt box below.)

Original - y style steering pitman arm with different angle and different taper

t style upgrade - new angle and taper to fit the T style linkage out of the 08.5 ram.

6 bolt steering box pitman - fits T style linkage, comes with updated linkage end if using Y style to fit the taper.

So you should never run a Y style pitman arm with T style linkage in any circumstances since the taper is different.

You can run a T style pitman arm with y style linkage if you buy the adapter linkage end to change the taper. No real point in doing this on a 4 bolt box, but there is no Y style pitman arm for the 6 bolt boxes with the massive sector shaft.
 
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