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Just drove it in a down pour. ... Damn right scary to drive this thing. It follows every friggin crack, line, I'm fighting to keep it on the damn road.

I'm pulling my hair out. Drives like it's on ice skates....darts back and forth.
Yeah my truck does the same thing. Replace OEM ball joints with Dynatrac's, new sway bar end links, and N49 recall. I have a low speed front end clunk and the truck is quite the handful on the highway. Seems like it is all over the road. Just put the truck up for sale. I'm getting tired of it..
 

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Yeah my truck does the same thing. Replace OEM ball joints with Dynatrac's, new sway bar end links, and N49 recall. I have a low speed front end clunk and the truck is quite the handful on the highway. Seems like it is all over the road. Just put the truck up for sale. I'm getting tired of it..
I am in the same boat, carli ball joints new sway bar and trac bar new wheel bearings and seems like the steering was better before all this was replaced, and I have had it aligned, i just need to mess it when I get time. feels like I have to constantly steer back and forth from left to right to go straight.
 

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how do you like the 2" coils and the overlands?
 

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Love them, once you get then on you realize how harsh the rear is lol. Waiting to get the airbags and spring mod done sometime
 

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Update..... I've added a steering gear box brace and put a new draglink in.... the tierods ends pop up and down when I turn the wheel. Still have the steering issue as described. I noticed my swaybar end links are bent so I'm replacing them. I messed with my caster, was set at 12. Moved to 1, 130, and 2. Steering was better at 130 and 2, but at 2, I noticed my u joint at my pinion is leaking grease so I backed it to 1pm. I'm thinking I may need to clock my transfer case and put them at 3 and 9....
I don't think your tie rods ends should be moving as you describe! Also, which draglink and ball joints did you go with?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I replaced it with stock draglink. I didn't have the coin for the synergy.... ball joints are brand new too. I'd have to look again what brand, but they are greaseable and I've used them before. I basically installed all that stuff, literally had 0 mIles on the stuff and it performed the same. I do have a clunking when I'm at full lock buy can't track it down. It acts like theres play in the steering while driving, but I can't seem figure it out. It's a nightmare while pulling a trailer on Interstate too. It's hard to describe what it does.
 

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I don't think your tie rods ends should be moving as you describe! Also, which draglink and ball joints did you go with?
Agreed!!! This stuff should not be moving!! JMO but You should have your caster set positive.(12 or 1:00). The Biggest thing that helped my truck which I know are expensive but it was Lock out hubs!!! It's surprising how The front axles turning dictates where the truck wants to go!!!
 

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How much toe in do you have? You mentioned removing your Thuren control arms, did you? Have you replaced the worn out steering parts that you said were popping up and down? What is your caster angle? Not where the cams are pointing, but the actual number from your alignment guy. I'm sorry to ask so many questions, but I want to help, and I'm having trouble figuring out what state the truck is in right now, so we can work from a base line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I have no idea anymore.... the 1st shop I took it to blamed my tires and has my caster cams pointing oposite from each other because it was within specs. I had them set toe at 0. I was pissed cuz I told them not to mess with my cams. So I took it to another place. I reset the cams and instructed them, if it wasn't need to bot adjust them. They said caster was 4.8 4.5, and my toe was outta wack. So they suposibly reset toe to 0. I'm out of state working and can't be without my truck atm. The local place wants $80 and told me caster isn't adjustable, which I know is BS and don't want them to touch it for that fact. They tried to tell me only way to adjust caster it by adding offset ball joints. I asked if they meant camber and the guy that's done alignments for 20yds looks at me and asked if I was a dummy.... apparently I am, lol. Anyways I'm gonna try and get sometime to find a different shop. The tierods ended pop up and down... even the factory drag link did this right out of the box. I can hold the steering wheel straight and hit a crack and the truck will move to follow it.


What baffles me the most is I drove all those miles from MN to CA and back, not a single problem, or indication until I got to Omaha NE. That's when it started acting goofy. One thing that did happen was my Thuren track bar jam nut loosened on me in California but I was able to get it set with a punch until I got home and fixed it.
 

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You are definitely wise to stay away from a shop that tells you caster adjustments are made with the ball joints! You're also going to need to replace the steering parts that are loose, I recommend the Synergy steering, it's what I run. I also prefer a slight amount of toe in, 1/16-1/8". With the longer arms, like your Thurens, I can usually just set the cams at 12 on a 2-3" truck, set the toe with a tape measure, and send the customer away happy without ever visiting the alignment shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I've got some weird noise or popping when I'm at full lock. Like my ps pump is messed up, but everything seems good. Pump is fill. Do the intermidiate shafts ever cause issues? I've checked the u joints, they seem good. Also when I'm not running I can move steering wheel back and forth and get a clunk. It seem like it's at the firewall.... been messing with truck this am.
 

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Very common problem. Do a search for "steering shaft knock".
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Very common problem. Do a search for "steering shaft knock".
Did a search and what ppl are experiencing I'm not. Mine has no knock while driving. With truck off I cam get that clunk. I read where ppl grease the spot at firewall. Could this be a part that's wore out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
For 's n giggles I got time today so I pulled my passenger shock.....this is what I find. Shock still has good compression and rebound, but it seems there is a dead spot right in the middle of the compression. 1 step closer to solving my issue. I also ordered the synergy steering system. Might as well have all new!
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Bump for more input...
 

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Check your output shaft at pitman when someone is turning wheel left to right. Mine is like "jumping" when close to full lock and causing a clunk noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I replaced the gearbox with a redhead and it still does it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Ok here's an update. Replaced the steering with synergy system and had it aligned again. This seems to have possibly fixed my problem, but another has come to light. I replaced my ball joints in this whole feasco. I have 3200 miles on them and they are still tight as hell...

If I set the steering wheel to center driving down the road, it'll track straight. If I move it to either left or right, it'll stay were I put it. I'm fighting that now. Also at a dead stop I cannot turn my tires more than a couple inches.... not sure if being 35-12.50 is why.

My power steering makes a weird thump when I rock the wheel back and forth and the line with the weight jumps. My breaks work fine. Thinking possible the valving in the PS pump might be shot? 52,000 on truck.
 

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TPMS adjustment guy
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Who's installing these parts and doing the alignment? Alignment printout? You can check the alignment toe with a tape measure. You want a slight 'toe in' so measuring center to center on the front of the tires should be about 1/8" less than measuring the same on the back side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I installed the synergy steering myself. I had a shop thst I've used many years do the BJ since it was -8 out and my shop isn't heated. I have the toe set at 0 per Doug Thuren. Ive confirmed that the ball joints are too tight by disconnecting the steering system .
One thing is I cannot turn the wheels at a stop at all. I have to be slightly moving. Not sure if this is part of the problem. Im running 315/70/17 tires. My brakes work fine. Fluid is full and new.
 
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