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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey. I have been searching a bit and found some stuff, but i'm going to ask anyway to clarify. My steering bracket has formed a crack near the bolt. The frame has also developed a crack behind the radiator support on the top edge. Same as in this picture from DTR:



Tomorrow I am going to remove the steering box and bracket and weld it up. I am also going to weld the frame back up. Any advice on doing this?, i've never done framework before. Also, I am aware that this is a somewhat temporary solution. What can I do to prevent this from happening in the future? If anyone has dealt with this and has any tips it would be greatly appreciated.
 

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If you have a way to do it I would weld it and then try to add another piece of steel to the bad area to help make it stronger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did not get around to framework today, probably over the weekend. I have been doing more homework and I cannot for the life of me find a definitive process to remove the steering gear. Is there a step by step? I saw one thread but it failed to explain removing the gear along with pitman arm from the drag link. Do I need a puller? or is there a better way to remove the linkage. Also, how do I remove the steering shaft? I just don't want to go in and start hammering on pins without knowledge of the "correct" process. Should I jack the front of the truck? and what about the securing of the steering wheel that I keep reading about. I have to drive out to my buddies shop because I want to use his machine instead of my little 110 Lincoln so I want to get everything in order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Over the weekend I welded up the frame cracks and bracket. I put everything back together. Now my steering wheel is a bit off-centered no biggie, but I have developed a slight "death wobble." I am trying to think what I could have mucked up. Maybe the joint at the end of the shaft? It had a black seal and wanted to sort of "come-apart" when I had it removed so I suspect that it was the original joint.. Could this cause my wobble or is something else maybe involved from the dismantle. I was thinking about a borgeson shaft..
 

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The borgsen shaft it the way to go. Also if you ever decide to go with crossover steering you can take that plate out and mount the gear box fast to the frame like a 2wd truck. It also allows you to straighten up your wheel.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Shoot I would love to do a crossover but I'm hesitant to lift my truck any, it is pretty high as is with no lift. How much does a reputable lift kit that would allow for crossover cost? What are others running?
 

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I paid 700 for my lift kit. I think the crossover kit was 36 fr0. Put on a new gear box and hoses from Napa at the same time I think that was 200. All that with the new king pins and it was the best improvement I could have ever done . My truck drives way better now
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Very cool I hope to do xover in the future. I installed the borgeson shaft and it feels tighter for sure, but still have a wobble. So, I have been doing research on the front-end shake and component failures that can cause this shake and I came across this article/diagram that I thought was very informative and answered a lot of my questions about front-end parts. Here it is for anyone else interested.

Diagnosing Death Wobble and Fixing Non-DW Shimmies and Wobbles - Jeep Wrangler Forum
 

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I've been building 4 link front ends for years now, and a HUGE cause of Death Wobble is 1. Unbalanced tires, or Tires needing to be rotated 2. Alignment is out 3. Bushings in Control arms are out. 4. Worn out tie rod ends, loose wheel hubs, and general steering slop.
 

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The thing that fixed mine was a set of 3 degree shims under the spring to tilt the axle forward. The camber was my problem.
 

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cummins keeper is dead on!!!!!

im a suspention guy too, and have had the same problems on my front end. the last thing i fixed was balance the tires and bingo that was it!!!!
messed with caster, got it aligned 3 times, did a cross over, replaced all tie rod ends....etc.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Allright, just got new rubber yesterday, balanced and proper. New draglink the other day, but I still have this darn shimmy. It is not as bad now, my old tires were pretty shot.. the new drag link is non-adjustable and I was told that the adjustable draglink adjusts the castor? Looking in my FSM, it diagnoses a possible cause of front shimmy as a result from improper castor.. What else could this shimmy be? Before I removed the steering gear I did not have shimmy. My other thought was that by tightening up the steering gear at the frame I simply pronounced a "looseness" somewhere else.. Any thoughts would be great it is just a matter of fine tuning!!
 
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With a leaf spring axle you need to use the shims . I just reread my post and i said it was camber, and i ment castor. Camber is the lean in and out toward the engine. Castor is the lean front to back.
I put 3 degree shims between the axle and the spring and it went away. You have to tilt the top of the axle foward. Did you ever push a shopping cart and the front wheels shook, Thats what is happening to you wheels. At least thats how the guy explained it to me.
I took it to a big truck spring shop with an alignment rack . They will probably have the shims.
See on leaf spring trucks the bushing get worn in the spring hangers and the springs sag some after 20 years of service. Short of rebuiding everything, this is like a crutch to put under the old girl to get her back straight.
The guys that dont have leaf spring axles have a different set of problems.
I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
This does help thanks for all the input. My one concern is that this started immediately after I tightened up the steering gear mount. Also, there is already a shim under the leaf pack, is this factory?:





Is this appropriate or are you suggesting an even larger angled shim?
Lastly, if I were to add a shim with a larger degree, does this need to be done on a rack or can I do it in my driveway?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I got a camera underneath to view the shimmy. It only occurs between 40-50. Heres a link to youtube:

Front End Shimmy - YouTube

You can see the tie rod shaking with the knuckle.. maybe kingpin? I also notice that when I am going slow in a parking lot turning slightly something clicks occasionally. Also in 4x4, slow turning does not sound good. Maybe related? I thought before it was front axle u-joints which I haven't gotten to yet but now I was thinking kingpin, but what do I know. Just trying to flood all my observation on the issue for an informed diagnosis. Thanks again for the time of those reading through the post, I appreciate.
 

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That looks like a fairly mild shim and judging by the cut marks on it, it does not look factory. I would suggest something a bit more aggressive. Also check out your bj/kp's to see what kind of condition they are in. What leafpack do you have on the front?
 

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Generally there will be a sticker or badge on it. Most OEM leaf packs don't have so many thin leafs on it. Do you have a picture of the ends of the leafs (not the eyelets but the individual leafs). Sometimes you can tell the maker of the leaf pack by the cut on the leafs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Il take a picture of the packs when I get off work later tonight. Why do you ask?
 
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