[mikhailmv]

I have 2017 RAM 3500 Cummins Cab & Chassis with Aisin transmission.
The truck is used for heavy towing (20000-22000 lbs)
I am thinking about stealth DEF/DPF/EGR/SCR deletion (which means that visually everything should be in place but DEF and EGR should be turned off)

What is the best tuner to be used for this purpose?

One of mechanics recommended Raceme Ultra tuner, but I have few questions:

1. Does it support some kind of towing mode.
2. Should it be connected to ECM constantly. If yes, what would happen if something happens with the tuner on the road?
3. What kind of support Raceme has in the USA? I know they give 2 year warranty, but should it be sent to Austria or to somewhere in the USA and how long it usually takes to get the fixed device back.

Thanks

 

[hillbilli]

I think you are looking for "Emissions Intact Tuning" EGR will be disabled (which is the most important part) but you will still regen and use DEF, but usually at a reduced frequency. I have no experience with RaceMe, but have done emission intact tuning on other vehicles, great improvement over stock.

 

[mikhailmv]

Actually I was thinking about complete delete.
You delete DPF and SCR (leaving just the outer shell).
DEF and EGR modules stay in place but are turned off

 

[Rjking365]

I have 2017 RAM 3500 Cummins Cab & Chassis with Aisin transmission.
The truck is used for heavy towing (20000-22000 lbs)
I am thinking about stealth DEF/DPF/EGR/SCR deletion (which means that visually everything should be in place but DEF and EGR should be turned off)

What is the best tuner to be used for this purpose?

One of mechanics recommended Raceme Ultra tuner, but I have few questions:

1. Does it support some kind of towing mode.
2. Should it be connected to ECM constantly. If yes, what would happen if something happens with the tuner on the road?
3. What kind of support Raceme has in the USA? I know they give 2 year warranty, but should it be sent to Austria or to somewhere in the USA and how long it usually takes to get the fixed device back.

Thanks

HPP a Ez Lynk Emissions Intact tuning shuts off EGR and DEF. DPF remains functional and my regens were less then stock. Their Intact SOTF tune is 0,25,50,100,150hp. Highly recommend if your going for stealth...

 

[Cacciatore]

HPP a Ez Lynk Emissions Intact tuning shuts off EGR and DEF. DPF remains functional and my regens were less then stock. Their Intact SOTF tune is 0,25,50,100,150hp. Highly recommend if your going for stealth...

I'm running CA intact tuning on my '13 and is essentially the same thing. Highly recommended as well

 

[Rjking365]

Actually I was thinking about complete delete.
You delete DPF and SCR (leaving just the outer shell).
DEF and EGR modules stay in place but are turned off

This would be a full “stealth delete” and you could run anyone’s full delete tuning through Ez Lynk, EFI Live, MM3 etc. You would have to remove and permanently modify the stock pieces by gutting them and running 3.5 to 4 inch pipe through the shell...I have no experience with this but I believe there are some threads dedicated to doing “stealth deletes”.

 

[ktwillys]

as said you would have to gut the exhaust but without a pipe run through the gutted system I would imagine
that there would be flow turbulence that would negate any performance or fuel mpg improvements.

So if you are just keeping looks. I would think the only thing you have to really mess with is the exhaust.. everything being
shut off should not impact the delete.

but whatever delete tuner you use be sure to let them know what you are doing.

 

[Cacciatore]

as said you would have to gut the exhaust but without a pipe run through the gutted system I would imagine
that there would be flow turbulence that would negate any performance or fuel mpg improvements.....

If you look inside the stock exhaust you'd see that's a huge understatement. I don't think anything could be more restrictive than the stock system other that welding the tailpipe shut.

 

[ktwillys]

If you look inside the stock exhaust you'd see that's a huge understatement. I don't think anything could be more restrictive than the stock system other that welding the tailpipe shut.

agree.. if the exhaust was left intact..

what I was referring to is if the stock exhaust was to be gutted.
Filter knocked out, cat knocked out... and the nox catalyst gutted as well..

the open spaces and non uniform expansion areas would cause an extreme turbulence thus causing a massive
restriction .. probably not much better than the exhaust being left stock.

so short answer is replace exhaust. I doubt there is a way to keep the "stock outer shell" and not have big issues..

 

[Cacciatore]

I want to differ with you there. I'm running a 51" Donaldson on my '11 and a 51" Donaldson paired with a 17" resonator on my '13 and the improvements over stock are immense power wise. The internal restrictions in those exhaust components are far more restrictive than just a can that flares out and tapers back again like a gutted factory component(although I don't have flow numbers for a gutted factory style element). Then again, I only took 1 fluid dynamics class during college and if you have a better explanation I'm more than willing to learn something.


I was considering just gutting the components on my '13 as it's a daily driver, but I feared it would be too loud without baffling like a muffler and a resonator

 

[CumminsProbee]

I'm running CA intact tuning on my '13 and is essentially the same thing. Highly recommended as well

Do you also have the Aisin on your ‘13? If so, any issues for you with this setup? Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Cacciatore]

Do you also have the Aisin on your ‘13? If so, any issues for you with this setup? Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a 68RFE

 

[SpoilRig406]

Have never gutted a 17, but have done several (12s, 14s, 15) previous years. Without splitting the entire deal in half its almost impossible to completely gut or get a pipe in. I welded a 3/4" speedbore and a 3 1/2" holesaw on about 36" of 3/8" rod to get it done. The DPF is almost a straight shot, break things up with the speedbore and make a pass with the holesaw. The SCR is a bit more work, same strategy but you have to work from both ends, in 2013+ they added an angled flange on the rear and made it even harder in newer trucks.

With a 4"ish core drilled out, the truck sounds stock... maybe a little deeper at idle.