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Discussion Starter #1
I have the southbend 3600 clutch and I am suppose to have it put in next weekend. My friend works for ford as a tranny tech and he is going to do the install for me, but wanted to know if there were any specialty tools needed to do the install? We will be doing the install on a lift with a tranny jack and pulling the trans and t case down as a whole. Also are there any tips on installing this clutch to make it go easier? I have been doing quite a bit of research on this and this is what I have come up with:
1. when installing the input shaft, don't overtighten the bolts and ram the cup into the bearing(is there a torque spec?).
2. When using the plastic align tool, hold up on the tool a pretty good amount while tightening the pressure plate.
3. Make sure the pilot bearing is pressed in the flywheel all the way

Any other advice would be great. I know I will have to grind a little bit of the webbing out of the bell housing. Also I am going to replace the trans fluid at the same time, any suggestions on that?
Thanks in advance for your help!
 

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You might want a sleave to go over a bellhousing bolt so you can use a pry bar to rotate the flywheel to remove it from the flexplate(8 Bolts).
When tightening the new clutch apply pressure evenly just watch the fingers and keep then pretty even. You might find out it is alot easier to split the transfercase off of the trans to get it back together. I fought with mine for over an hour even with a lift and tranny jack and finally split it and got it to align in 10mins. Common practice is to overfill the trans from the top by a quart or 2 to help quiet the chatter down.

Hope this helps good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the input, every little bit helps...i'm trying to get everything figured out so this goes as smooth as possible
 

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I just installed my 3250 this past week. I'll apologize now for the long post. Here are a few tips:

-South bend installs their pilot bearings with a snap ring, check to see if the snap ring is there.

-Remove every plastic wire harness clip from the bell housing to the cross member, no need to go any further. This will give you just enough room to loop the harness over the top of the transmission to allow you to slide it out.

-The second shifter boot has 6 screws under the carpet holding it on. Two on either side and two on the aft side, nothing in front.

- The shift tower is bolted to the transmission using 4 inverted torx screws (the one where the bolt looks like a torx bit), I was able to get it out with a 12pt 10mm socket, but if it's tight you might need something different.

-The exhaust hangar on the down pipe will not clear the bell housing. You must either remove the down pipe, or hold it over with a pry bar while somebody else slides the trans back.

-Have a way to remove the weight from one front tire so you can rotate it in order to get the front drive shaft rotated over to remove two of the bolts.

-Trans removal is pretty straight forward, OEM pressure plate and disk is straight forward.

-OEM dual mass flywheel has 8 bolts holding it together. Utilize a socket through the top inboard hole on the front of the trans adapter plate, passenger side. No need to remove the cover, just loosen the bolts and rotate it out of the way. I was able to rotate the flywheel by hand, but wear gloves or it'll cut your hands apart. Once the big part of the dual mass flywheel comes off (heavy) remove the second half that looks like a flex plate by unbolting it from the crank.

-Remove the clutch fork pivot ball from the trans and remove the washer from under it. Re-install without the washer. This is for clutch fork clearance.

-Use red loctite to hold the new flywheel to the crank.

-Do yourself a favor and break the plastic ring off of the end of the alignment tool. You'll break it as soon as you put force on it anyway. Drill a hole at the top part of one of the splines on either side and run a piece of heavy gauge wire through it. Use this to pull the tool out. When you break the ring and don't have a wire through it, you must remove the pressure plate to get it back out. Been there, done that.

-Install the floater plate and pressure plate so that the red mark on the side lines up with the flywheel. It'll make sense when you take it apart.

-Install the pressure plate but only tighten it up just enough to hold the weight of the clutch disks, no more. Remove the plastic alignment tool. Use your eyeball and some random tools to ensure both clutch disks are aligned absolutely perfect with the pilot bearing. You should be able to install and remove the alignment tool by hand. If it's hanging or you have to use tools to pull it out, it's not lined up properly. The trans will never go back together. Once everything is aligned, tighten the pressure plate down in a star pattern, only 1 or two turns at a time.

-If you're installing the hydraulic upgrade, there are two plastic clips holding the line to the bottom of the cab. One almost directly across from the slave cylinder, one attached to the bottom of the cab just before it turns up to the flywheel. Both are a pain to get to. The new hydraulic line is covered with a protective wire loom. I cut the wire loom apart where the line meets the forward most plastic clip in order to get it to clamp around the line. The new line is too short to go into both clips.

Most Importantly!!!

-Check the rear main seal for any signs of leakage. Now is a great time to replace the seal.
-Check the input shaft for any signs of distortion (twisted), discoloration from getting hot, and play. If the case is worn around the input shaft it will be loose and will fail very soon.
-Check the pin in your clutch pedal where it attaches to the master cylinder for any wear. If you see any, replace it.
-Give everything else a good look-over as you remove it. If you see any physical damage, excessive wear, distortion, etc. Correct it before you re-install it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thank you for your post, that has a lot of good information in it that I think will help me a lot. I'm a little nervous about doing the install even though my friend is going to be doing it. I guess I'm just a little nervous because he is use to doing OEM clutch replacements and not the dual disk. Thanks again for the post.
 

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Thanks. This thread is worthy of being a sticky.
 

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Eventually I'll have the entire install procedure documented on my web-site. It's a rather large article, so it'll probably take me a while to write it up. I'm going to work on it tomorrow.
 
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