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On a 2007 truck, I would recommend replacing the valve body assy with a new Mopar part (to get an anodized VB).

The OD clutch is the normal "weak link", however I do not know of any upgrades you can do for it (I am unfamiliar with what might be available in the aftermarket - I only work on production components). The production OD clutch is a single-sided, 12-disc clutch pack. There is not physically room (inside the input clutch retainer) to fit more discs in. I suppose using a different OD friction material (with a higher coefficient of friction) would help, but then that could also lead to shift quality problems. As I said, I don't know whether anyone sells such an OD clutch or not.
 

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On a 2007 truck, I would recommend replacing the valve body assy with a new Mopar part (to get an anodized VB).

The OD clutch is the normal "weak link", however I do not know of any upgrades you can do for it (I am unfamiliar with what might be available in the aftermarket - I only work on production components). The production OD clutch is a single-sided, 12-disc clutch pack. There is not physically room (inside the input clutch retainer) to fit more discs in. I suppose using a different OD friction material (with a higher coefficient of friction) would help, but then that could also lead to shift quality problems. As I said, I don't know whether anyone sells such an OD clutch or not.
TE, What year did the factory start using the anodized valve body in new trucks?
 

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Are these line boosters designed to help with transmission shudder problems or feeling? Would a NEW 2010 stock truck benefit from this? Thanks for any input. :thumbsup:
 

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Are these line boosters designed to help with transmission shudder problems or feeling? Would a NEW 2010 stock truck benefit from this? Thanks for any input. :thumbsup:
I have two trucks that i put the foolers on,they were both starting to slip and shutter. After the install i backed the tune down to 120 and they have been fine since. Now keep in mind they are also being drove easier due to the fact of just trying to make it last another 20k miles. I would definitely give it a try,its very cheap considering it could make your tranny last a bit longer.
 

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On a 2007 truck, I would recommend replacing the valve body assy with a new Mopar part (to get an anodized VB).

The OD clutch is the normal "weak link", however I do not know of any upgrades you can do for it (I am unfamiliar with what might be available in the aftermarket - I only work on production components). The production OD clutch is a single-sided, 12-disc clutch pack. There is not physically room (inside the input clutch retainer) to fit more discs in. I suppose using a different OD friction material (with a higher coefficient of friction) would help, but then that could also lead to shift quality problems. As I said, I don't know whether anyone sells such an OD clutch or not.
The Suncoast OD clutch on the comp 68 is a new and improved billet unit that has been built to accept frictions that are substantially bigger than stock. This has made the over drive issue a thing of the past as it will now hold 1,800' + lbs of torque on a day to day basis. I personally don't see any other way that the 68rfe will ever hold big power in the over drive section of the tranny without this modification.

PS. Thanks again TA for your knowledge and input on this forum!
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Well been driving my truck and everything seems to be fine! Finally! I feel that I need to do something to beef up my tranny. No sure what I want to do but I'll keep everybody informed.
Thanks for all your help te!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Well I'm still having the same problems! Been pullin around 5k today and trans is going into limp! Going to take it to the dealer this afternoon to see what's happening. It thru the p0700 again so idk what going on.

***Casey or Bentley could you please read this thread and chim in if you have any advise? I talked with Jim today in tech support today and have uninstalled Overdrive tune to make sure that's not the problem.

Thanks!
 

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I guess the dealer didn't "figure out" your problem very well.

Ask them to tell you specifically the exact fault codes that are set in your TCM. Also ask them to download and print for you the DTC Event Data associated with the most recent fault. They should have done that the last time you were in, since most of our diagnostic procedures call for reading and saving the DTC Event Data. But then, many dealer techs don't bother to read (or follow) the published diagnostics. They just guess at what they figure the problem might be, and throw some part(s) at it. If that doesn't fix it... well, they just make more money on the 2nd (and 3rd, etc.) repair attempts.

Sorry if I sound cynical, but I've seen too many techs who seem to be more motivated to replace parts than to actually track down the root cause of the problem. I recall one memorable case where a tech called in with a certain fault code. I asked him to drop the valve body and check the #2 check ball to see if it was cut or damaged. He called back a day or two later and said, "OK, I replaced the valve body. What do I do next?" He hadn't bothered to look at the check ball. :doh:
 

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You can see the mods I have in my sig.... At around 104,000 my torque converter started slipping so took it to the dealer and had it replaced. It's been two weeks and this one is slipping and making the trans over heat therefore going into limp mode. I'm not to the point of buying a good aftermarket torque converter so I thought about buying a line pressure booster. I've had the H&S overdrive software for about 15,000 miles now also. I wondered which booster is better.... Sonnax or BD-Power and can I use one of these with the overdrive software?
Thanks
Going back to the begining......... When you say its slipping,is it slipping when it gets to 5th as you try to gain speed? Are is it slipping in the lower gears?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Going back to the begining......... When you say its slipping,is it slipping when it gets to 5th as you try to gain speed? Are is it slipping in the lower gears?
Stupid me didnt ask enough questions when the mechanic said it was slipping the first time. All i can remember is he said it was slipping by 200-300 lbs? im not sure this makes sence. He was very positive it was slipping but didnt give me codes or event data report to prove his theory.

I made it to the dealer this afternoon and got the codes and event date report from when it went into limp the last time today. I uninstalled my Overdrive software today before it went into limp so keep that in mind...

I tried to post my data from the dealer via pdf and it says ive exceeded my quota?? So any info you need to know on the event data sheet i have and could email to you te if you want?
 

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Stupid me didnt ask enough questions when the mechanic said it was slipping the first time. All i can remember is he said it was slipping by 200-300 lbs? im not sure this makes sence. He was very positive it was slipping but didnt give me codes or event data report to prove his theory.

I made it to the dealer this afternoon and got the codes and event date report from when it went into limp the last time today. I uninstalled my Overdrive software today before it went into limp so keep that in mind...

I tried to post my data from the dealer via pdf and it says ive exceeded my quota?? So any info you need to know on the event data sheet i have and could email to you te if you want?
Thats probably 300rpms difference in the input and out put through the converter witch would be a problem. I believe 150 is the allowable number if i remember right. Trans engineer could definitely diagnose this with the info that you have. Other than that have you ever noticed it slipping in the over drive gears?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Thats probably 300rpms difference in the input and out put through the converter witch would be a problem. I believe 150 is the allowable number if i remember right. Trans engineer could definitely diagnose this with the info that you have. Other than that have you ever noticed it slipping in the over drive gears?
I didn't notice it slipping at all actually or doing anything funny. I did notice after the new tc was put in there was a huge difference in acceleration speed.
 

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I made it to the dealer this afternoon and got the codes and event date report from when it went into limp the last time today.
I tried to post my data from the dealer via pdf and it says ive exceeded my quota?? So any info you need to know on the event data sheet i have and could email to you te if you want?
OK, so what codes did you have? In the DTC Event Data, what was the Line Pressure, and Desired Line Pressure? What was Current Gear, Target Gear, Last Shift, Engine Speed, Turbine Speed, and Output Speed?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
OK, so what codes did you have? In the DTC Event Data, what was the Line Pressure, and Desired Line Pressure? What was Current Gear, Target Gear, Last Shift, Engine Speed, Turbine Speed, and Output Speed?
Codes- p0700, p0871 OD pressure switch rationality, p0740 TCC out of range
Line pressure- 149.0
Desires line pressure- 150.0
Current/present gear- 2nd
Target gear- 2nd
Last shift- 1st to 2nd
Engine speed- 1935 rpm
Turbine speed- 1284 rpm
Output speed- 699 rpm

I'm you need anything else just let me know!!
Thanks!!
 

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Aha.... P0740 does indicate slippage in the converter (slipping TCC). But the P0871 is most likely caused (at your mileage) by the worn valve body (SSV) bore. Replace your valve body assy. Part number from Mopar is 68033980AB ($464 list). That should fix the P0871 fault, and may clear up the P0740 as well. If you still keep setting a P0740 (after replacing the VB), then you'll probably want to replace the converter and the pump assy. But do the easy thing first - new VB assy.

The P0871 fault COULD be caused by a wiring problem (bad connection in the OD pressure switch circuit), but it is far more likely to be caused by a worn valve body. You definitely need a new VB anyway at your mileage, so go ahead and replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Aha.... P0740 does indicate slippage in the converter (slipping TCC). But the P0871 is most likely caused (at your mileage) by the worn valve body (SSV) bore. Replace your valve body assy. Part number from Mopar is 68033980AB ($464 list). That should fix the P0871 fault, and may clear up the P0740 as well. If you still keep setting a P0740 (after replacing the VB), then you'll probably want to replace the converter and the pump assy. But do the easy thing first - new VB assy.

The P0871 fault COULD be caused by a wiring problem (bad connection in the OD pressure switch circuit), but it is far more likely to be caused by a worn valve body. You definitely need a new VB anyway at your mileage, so go ahead and replace it.
Excellent! I will relay this info to the dealer today and suggest getting it done asap. Also the mechanic failed to tell me till yesterday that when he replaced that solenoid assembly he found some aluminum shavings on top of it??
Thanks very much!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Also is there a chance that the worn vb could have caused my original tc to slip that much? And could the vb have caused the mechanic to think my solenoid pack was bad therefore placing it?
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Also is there a chance that the worn vb could have caused my original tc to slip that much? And could the vb have caused the mechanic to think my solenoid pack was bad therefore placing it?
Thanks
Yes, there is a chance that the worn SSV in the main valve body could have affected your TCC operation and caused the P0740 fault. That's why I'm suggesting just replacing the VB first and see if that takes care of everything (if you're lucky).

If you still have issues (P0740) after replacing the VB, then the problem with the TCC is either within the converter, or in the pump assy. The valves that control the TCC operation are in the rear half of the pump. They are fed from the SSV in the main valve body.

I think your mechanic looked at the P0871 fault (OD pressure switch rationality) and simply said, "The OD pressure switch is in the solenoid, so I'll try replacing that first."
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Te.... Waiting on the dealer to decide what to do with my truck I've been driving my truck empty the past two days and it has not acted up at all. But as soon as I hook up to something it acts up within an hour of driving. I stopped in at the dealer yesterday as they have not called me to decide what they want to do. I told them I wanted to replace the vb assy and the mechanic didn't agree with me but said they'll change it if I want to. He said if it fixes it he will have learned something. I gave them the part number to order the vb and told them the price lol. Te, are you very certain this is my problem? I just want to be sure as this is starting to get expensive!
 
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