[Gatuncrocs]

In your first post, 4th picture, there’s a spacer that says it’s to prevent 2-3 shuttle shifting. Did you install that spacer?

No, I didn’t because the transgo instructions said it wasn’t necessary with tv cable equipped models. But now that I’m experiencing the shuttle shifting, I guess I’ll install that spacer…..or go back to the metal style governor sensor. It wasn’t doing it with the old governor sensor. Weird. And the metal style does seem a lot more robust to me…. But I don’t know.

Another thing is I made my own gasket between the governor body & valve body…. I couldn’t find a quick replacement. I’m wondering if the material I used isn’t right & it’s letting pressure escape? I got all the holes perfectly cut out & the material is for high heat applications so I doubt thats my issue.

 

[Gatuncrocs]

I figured out why my valve body has the old style governor sensor on it: someone must have installed this $200 kit previously (see photo). I’m going to put it back in because the plastic sensor I installed yesterday definitely makes it shuttle shift between 2-3.
Anyone have experience with this kit? As far as I can tell so far it’s definitely an upgrade.

Now I need to figure out why my max line pressure won’t go above 150psi. 😵‍💫

 

[Gatuncrocs]

Well, I tore down the VB again and meticulously put it back together. I didn’t find any mistake. I went ahead & installed the gold spacer to see if that helps at all. I’m planing on turning the PR adjustment screw 3 turns to see if that helps with the low pressure

 

[Gatuncrocs]

Update. I just went on another test run. Again, I adjusted the PR adjuster three revolutions counter clockwise. I also reinstalled the older style governor sensor & harness. I also have the brass washer installed in the VB. I’m now at 80psi idle, 125psi @ 1800rpm and 160psi at WOT. No more shuttle shifting & the shifts I can feel much firmer/better. But I think it’s still lacking pressure. Should I adjust the screw 3 more turns to get up to hopefully 90psi @ idle & 170 @ WOT?

Also, I know that some local mechanics may have messed around with the truck before I bought it. I say that because I found lots of loose bolts, and other stuff indicative to people who don’t pay attention. I’m wondering if they turned the small EPC hex screw on the governor solenoid. I know you’re not supposed to touch that….but I’m wondering if I should screw it in a 1/4 turn to see if my pressures come up to normal. I just don’t understand why my pressures are low, even with the transgo kit installed.

I know the previous guy installed the DNJ solenoid body & overtightened the bolts. Which brings me to another question: every time I install this solenoid body, it eats up one corner of the gasket, even at the correct torque (100ft pounds). Is this normal or is perhaps the body warped from the last guy overtightening the bolts?

Another little thing. My pan keeps leaking a bit. I have a new gasket & torque to 120 ft pounds. Is this just a warped pan or something else?

 

[Gatuncrocs]

I just readjusted the PR screw, 4 more turns. So now I’m a total of 7 turns counter clockwise. I’m now at 88psi idle, still 125psi @ 1800rpm with converter locked and 175psi at WOT with converter locked in OD.

Is this a reasonable place to leave it alone? It’s shifting nicely now. Although I still find 3-4 too mushy. And accelerating in 2nd or 3rd without the converter locked just makes the truck feel gutless. As soon as the converter locks, the power is there. Maybe that’s all normal.

 

[Gravel]

I know the previous guy installed the DNJ solenoid body & overtightened the bolts. Which brings me to another question: every time I install this solenoid body, it eats up one corner of the gasket, even at the correct torque (100ft pounds). Is this normal or is perhaps the body warped

Another little thing. My pan keeps leaking a bit. I have a new gasket & torque to 120 ft pounds. Is this just a warped pan or something else?

Hopefully the torque specs you wrote down are typos. Oil pan to case is 120 inch pounds, aka 10 foot pounds, not 120 foot pounds. Valve body is 100 inch pounds, not 100 foot pounds..

Otherwise, it sounds like you made some good progress! The soft power until TC lockup is what mine did with the stock (worn out) converter, a new converter is the cure for that. But I went a couple years wit my stocker, just don’t push it too hard with tuners and heavy towing.

 

[Gatuncrocs]

Hopefully the torque specs you wrote down are typos. Oil pan to case is 120 inch pounds, aka 10 foot pounds, not 120 foot pounds. Valve body is 100 inch pounds, not 100 foot pounds..

Otherwise, it sounds like you made some good progress! The soft power until TC lockup is what mine did with the stock (worn out) converter, a new converter is the cure for that. But I went a couple years wit my stocker, just don’t push it too hard with tuners and heavy towing.

Yeah, I meant inch pounds.

The torque converter is a stock reman the previous owner put in. I think he just had the cheapest overhaul kit installed.

It’s driving pretty decently now so I guess I’ll leave it alone unless I get some more good recommendations here. Thanks everyone who commented & helped me out!

 

[Dynamic]

Someone put a DNJ GM solenoid conversion on it at some point. Not my favorite, but they do work (until the solenoid wears out and starts sticking, the same way they do in their GM applications). Before Borg Warner came out with the HD solenoid, they were the answer for high line pressure applications, but are no longer necessary. The metal transducers are a little more robust than the stock plastic ones, but still should be protected from high line pressure.

It would sure be interesting to know why you had to wind that PR spring up 6 turns to get the pressure you should be getting with zero turns. Something is not happy in there. Six turns of preload gets a little scary from a PR valve travel standpoint.

The 2-3 shuttle shift washer is simply annoying. But if they're going to mod that part throttle circuit like they do in the kit, you aren't left with many options.

 

[Gatuncrocs]

Someone put a DNJ GM solenoid conversion on it at some point. Not my favorite, but they do work (until the solenoid wears out and starts sticking, the same way they do in their GM applications). Before Borg Warner came out with the HD solenoid, they were the answer for high line pressure applications, but are no longer necessary. The metal transducers are a little more robust than the stock plastic ones, but still should be protected from high line pressure.

It would sure be interesting to know why you had to wind that PR spring up 6 turns to get the pressure you should be getting with zero turns. Something is not happy in there. Six turns of preload gets a little scary from a PR valve travel standpoint.

The 2-3 shuttle shift washer is simply annoying. But if they're going to mod that part throttle circuit like they do in the kit, you aren't left with many options.

yeah, it bothers me too that I had to adjust 7 turns. That’s why I had the idea that someone might have messed around with the EPC hex screw on the solenoid. Because I’ve been through the valve body 3 times & it’s definitely put together properly & it’s nice & clean. What’s your opinion on moving that EPC screw 1/4-1/2 turn in to see if it brings the pressure to what it should be? Or any other ideas what could be going on? What else affects pressure?

 

[Gatuncrocs]

I decided to reach out to Transgo & ask about my line pressure issue. Turns out the Sonnax PR valve can’t be used with the Transgo springs & shims because there’ll be too much flow & cause low line pressure. Either I have to block the hole in the valve or install the original PR valve, which is what I’ll do. Also, pressure @ WOT should be anywhere between 140-180 depending on the size of the hole on the boost plate. At idle it should be 75 psi with no TV and 105 psi at full TV (in drive not moving holding RPM at 1000).

Also, another interesting note is that if you don’t use the Transgo manual valve and notch the VB, you can’t make too many WOT manual 1-2 shifts or it will take out the rear band in no time. That doesn’t bother me much since I’m always driving in Drive and never drive WOT, but definitely interesting info.

I’ll post back with results after I’ve installed the original PR valve & back off the adjustment screw. Hope it solves my issue!

 

[Dynamic]

I disagree with pretty much all of that.

There will be too much flow to where? To the converter charge circuit? That circuit is regulated separately anyway (unless you grind the switch valve like they tell you to). More volume in would simply be regulated at the switch valve, not even an inch away. The line-to-lube passage in the Sonnax valve is absolutely inconsequential in this situation. The only thing that would make a difference in line pressure between them is if the dimensions at the PR spring end of the valve were different between the Sonnax and the OEM valves. They are not. I use the same style of PR setup that Transgo uses on a daily basis (different spring rate, but same type of setup...I also do not use the little shim under the D-shaped washer, which further increases flow to the converter). The Sonnax valve and the OEM valve are interchangeable from this standpoint. If they come in with a Sonnax valve, and the system vacuum checks properly, the Sonnax valve gets disassembled, cleaned, and reinstalled. No line pressure issues...

The Transgo manual valve (and their filed notch) is not a very good setup. The Sonnax is much better, and simpler...and no filing. (The Superior is even better yet, they just don't sell them separately.) The WOT 1-2 shift thing with the rear band with the rear band has very little to do with the manual valve, and much more to do with the rate of the rear servo return spring. Nobody installing this kit is driving their truck that way anyway, and if they are, they have the wrong setup...by a mile.

 

[Gatuncrocs]

I disagree with pretty much all of that.

There will be too much flow to where? To the converter charge circuit? That circuit is regulated separately anyway (unless you grind the switch valve like they tell you to). More volume in would simply be regulated at the switch valve, not even an inch away. The line-to-lube passage in the Sonnax valve is absolutely inconsequential in this situation. The only thing that would make a difference in line pressure between them is if the dimensions at the PR spring end of the valve were different between the Sonnax and the OEM valves. They are not. I use the same style of PR setup that Transgo uses on a daily basis (different spring rate, but same type of setup...I also do not use the little shim under the D-shaped washer, which further increases flow to the converter). The Sonnax valve and the OEM valve are interchangeable from this standpoint. If they come in with a Sonnax valve, and the system vacuum checks properly, the Sonnax valve gets disassembled, cleaned, and reinstalled. No line pressure issues...

The Transgo manual valve (and their filed notch) is not a very good setup. The Sonnax is much better, and simpler...and no filing. (The Superior is even better yet, they just don't sell them separately.) The WOT 1-2 shift thing with the rear band with the rear band has very little to do with the manual valve, and much more to do with the rate of the rear servo return spring. Nobody installing this kit is driving their truck that way anyway, and if they are, they have the wrong setup...by a mile.

Interesting! Thanks for your input Dynamic. Now I’m thoroughly confused! 😂

Here is exactly what the fellow at Transgo said:

You will need to go back in and block the hole in the Sonnax valve or you will burn something. Their valve has a built-in provision for line to lube, our dual seats and springs do the same thing. One or the other is ok, but both together is too much, it is too big of a leak, it will burn a set of clutches after a while if you leave it like that.

At the same time bring the adjustment back. Each turn gives you 8-9 psi increase. In your case it took 7 turns to bring it up only 20 psi, that's because of the huge leak with the two line to lube combination, the pump just can't keep up at idle.

 

[Dynamic]

Well you can definitely put the OEM valve in to eliminate it as the problem (or, but my experience has not shown that they are correct. If you were dealing with simply a low line pressure situation at idle (minimum pump volume), then I would entertain their theory. You are not. The pressure is low consistently, across the board, regardless of pump rpm.

They are correct in that their "dual seats and springs" setup does do the same thing, but I have not found the additional passage in the Sonnax valve, as small as it is, to have much (if any) bearing on line pressure regulation. The pump output (especially on a 48RE, which has a higher pump output than a 47RE) should be sufficient to satisfy system demand. I still believe that your problem lies elsewhere.

 

[Gatuncrocs]

Well you can definitely put the OEM valve in to eliminate it as the problem (or, but my experience has not shown that they are correct. If you were dealing with simply a low line pressure situation at idle (minimum pump volume), then I would entertain their theory. You are not. The pressure is low consistently, across the board, regardless of pump rpm.

They are correct in that their "dual seats and springs" setup does do the same thing, but I have not found the additional passage in the Sonnax valve, as small as it is, to have much (if any) bearing on line pressure regulation. The pump output (especially on a 48RE, which has a higher pump output than a 47RE) should be sufficient to satisfy system demand. I still believe that your problem lies elsewhere.

Well, I’ll do as they recommend to see if it helps things at all. I’ll post back here with the results. I’ll also check the size hole I have on the boost plate to make sure it’s at a good size. I didn’t check that last time.

 

[Gatuncrocs]

Another update! This is interesting!
I did what Robert @ Transgo recommended & then pressure tested according to his guide:

Disconnect the TV cable or linkage. You then put it in drive and gently power brake it to 1000 RPM to ensure the pump is pumping enough. At that point you should have 75 psi on the gauge. Then you pull the lever to max TV (this is really a two-man operation) and it needs to go up by 40 psi so that should put you at 105 psi if you have 75 with no TV.

So, I did that and sure enough I am @ 75psi & 105psi with full TV. My WOT psi is back @ 150 however, but Robert says only the HD2 kit will get me up to 175, not the SK kit. He claims my pressures are perfect as is.

I did have to fine tune my TV cable adjuster and now I’m maxed out. Does that mean I need a new cable? Could it be stretched?

So, what do you think Dynamic? Am I good to go?