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Some assistance regarding TransGO sk 48-re kit install

1812 Views 54 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Gatuncrocs, 
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My vehicle is a 2004.5 2500 Cummins with the 48re.
The truck had a transmission rebuild right before I purchased it and everything works fine.

I want better shifting & to make the transmission last longer, so I decided to install the TransGO sk48re kit along with the following Sonnax parts: manual valve 22771-09, lube regulated zip valve 22771a-02k, front servo cover 22827-01, billet piston kit 22841-04k. A DNJ gm governor solenoid kit was already installed by previous owner.

I currently have the valve body apart and have read through the TransGO shift kit instructions and have decided NOT to do the following steps (please correct me if I’m wrong):

I won’t drill these holes:

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I will not perform this notch, since I’m using the Sonnax valve:

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I will not install this green spring:

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I will not install this gold spacer (I have tv cable & no issues with shuttle shift):
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I will not grind the switch valve:

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I will not use spring, shim & PR valve from kit since I’m using Sonnax valve:

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I will perform the rest of the steps, although I’m unsure if I should drill this hole or not:

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Is my plan flawed somehow? Thanks for any input!

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Gravel
Other than stuff TransGo says is optional, I’d suggest following all the steps. It’s a balanced system and if you don’t do some of the stuff it might turn out to have some unexpected problems.
Ive read a few reports about the TCC lockup holes, they all said it wasn’t harsh even with both holes drilled. And quicker lockup will probably help your stock converter live longer.
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Gravel
Mines a 48re-hd2 Transgo kit mixed with a DPC billet servo kit so sorta similar to what you’re planning, it’s been working pretty good even with the wrong spring in the front servo. Trans guy apparently had a brain fart when putting it together, he was scheduled to take it apart and check out the intermittent flare between 2nd and 3rd, then the poor guy passed away.. So I researched the symptoms, swapped out the wrong spring for the right one myself, I’ve got no complaints at all about how it works now. I skipped some of the optional steps like the TCC lockup holes and the “max firmness” 1-2 shift steps because I’ve got a 3 disc converter and didn’t want any harshness.

Good luck!
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Gravel
In your first post, 4th picture, there’s a spacer that says it’s to prevent 2-3 shuttle shifting. Did you install that spacer?
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Gravel
Gatuncrocs said:
I know the previous guy installed the DNJ solenoid body & overtightened the bolts. Which brings me to another question: every time I install this solenoid body, it eats up one corner of the gasket, even at the correct torque (100ft pounds). Is this normal or is perhaps the body warped

Another little thing. My pan keeps leaking a bit. I have a new gasket & torque to 120 ft pounds. Is this just a warped pan or something else?
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Hopefully the torque specs you wrote down are typos. Oil pan to case is 120 inch pounds, aka 10 foot pounds, not 120 foot pounds. Valve body is 100 inch pounds, not 100 foot pounds..

Otherwise, it sounds like you made some good progress! The soft power until TC lockup is what mine did with the stock (worn out) converter, a new converter is the cure for that. But I went a couple years wit my stocker, just don’t push it too hard with tuners and heavy towing.
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