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The Uppity 12v Admin
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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
Finishing

Before welding on the crossmember, I was expecting to need to remove paint from the area around the weld zone and then rattle can it when I was done, but after removing all the grime from the crossmember, mine appeared to have never been painted. It wasn't that it all peeled off, there was simply no evidence anywhere of any paint. It wasn't rusting very bad, and may have been galvanized originally, but this was a huge problem because I didn't allow time for sanding, priming, and painting the whole damn thing. Likewise, I planned to give the PTO covers and transfer case shifter bracket a quick squirt with Rustoleum and call it a day.

I was especially not looking forward to painting this crossmember after seeing the results of 3 days of prep work and painting on my front bumper this spring. I went further out of my way to do the paint right then as I ever have in my life, and 8 months later it's full of rock chips and looks like crap. I should have powdercoated it but I was being cheap and didn't want the downtime.

At the same time, I am on a budget and didn't want to pay for powdercoating and still not have the parts for days. But, there's a powdercoating place a block down the street from my work, and I figured I'd look into all the options.

Yesterday (Friday) at 8am I went over to Spokane Wrought Iron who does in-house sandblasting and powdercoating. I showed the parts to Enver, their powdercoating expert, and he said sandblasting and powdercoating on the crossmember, bracket, and both PTO covers would be $80 even. I mentioned I was in a hurry, and he said definitely by Monday but possibly today. I was expecting Monday, especially since I'm normally done at work around 3 and wouldn't be staying late to pick these up since I couldn't do anything with them this weekend.

6 hours later, Enver calls me up and says my parts are done. I was impressed at the turnaround, but a little skeptical of what the quality would be like. But, being under the truck, all that mattered to me was rust prevention. Turns out he did a damn good job on them. The coating is nice and thick, no imperfections that I can find, and he even got all the way up inside the boxed ends of the crossmember which I wasn't expecting.

The pictures do NOT do justice:














I highly recommend Spokane Wrought Iron for blasting and powdercoat, and I know where I will be taking my stuff for that from now on. The only caveat is they didn't seem to be able to process cards, so make sure you have cash on hand by the time your parts are done. Enver was cool about me running to the bank after we had already loaded up the parts, but I'll be more prepared next time.
 

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The Uppity 12v Admin
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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
The only other thing I have to report is I spent the morning machining some plugs for the coolant lines when I delete my oil-water cooler.



They're aluminum and fit 5/8" hose. There is a raised lip to help hold them in and enough room on the flat for a hose clamp.



The protrusion from the end is mostly to facilitate removal. It's 1/2" long and the same OD as the hose.

I'll pull the coolant lines from the tees at the water pump/outlet, put on as short a length of hose as I can, and plug the hoses with these. You could really just jam a bolt in there, but I figured what the hell.
 

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Neat, I didn't know there was such a thing. And yeah, a good seal there is imperative. Thanks for sharing.

What's your drain/refill interval, Gary? Do you overfill?
I drain & refill mine every 50k. I have fast coolers which add two qts. (8 total) and refill it to the bottom of the filler hole with a long plastic hose that reaches into the engine compt. I use my grandson as a spotter, when it starts dripping out of the hole I stop pouring.

I see you chose not to drop the transmission by cutting out the cross member. Hope it works for you.
 

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The Uppity 12v Admin
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Discussion Starter #44
I think because my output yoke is further back, I didn't need to drop the transmission as much as yourself and a couple others with 2wd trucks did. Either way, it's the correct mount height to put my output at the same height it was. The pictures don't show it but there's healthy clearance between the transmission and the crossmember in front of the mount.
 

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The pictures don't show it but there's healthy clearance between the transmission and the crossmember in front of the mount.
Yes, but will there be any clearance between the top of the trans and the floor boards?
 

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The Uppity 12v Admin
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Discussion Starter #46
It was just barely touching. You could shake the transmission slightly side to side and not hear any noise. When I pulled it out, there were no marks on the transmission and on the bottom of the cab, just some dirt rubbed away.

When I mocked it up, I was not able to take into account how much the rubber mount will compress when everything is in place. That may be not at all, or some fraction of an inch, which would be enough for the transmission to clear the floorboard.

I was more concerned with keeping my output at the original height. If I have to tweak some sheet metal, I will.
 

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The Uppity 12v Admin
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Discussion Starter #47
He was amazed how quiet mine was with (at the time) twice as many miles.
I meant to ask, how is your rollover noise? How high do you have to keep the RPM to not hear it? The SMF conversion is supposed to make them noisy when running ATF, but does the Synchromesh help keep it quiet?
 

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Roll over noise?:confused013:
 

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The trans rattle we grew up with....:hehe:
If there is a noise I can't hear it over the engine rattle. I could hear my release bearing when it started to fail, so the roll over noise must be minimal.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Operators who switch from a DMF to a SMF report a growling noise below 1500-1800rpm depending on the gear. This is commonly referred to as "roll-over noise" because the internet consensus is that this sound is caused by one shaft trying to roll over the other, but I haven't decided if I agree with that. I think it's more an issue of engine vibration rattling the lash in the gears, since the DMF is no longer there to absorb the vibration. I could be wrong, but I think this is an issue primarily on the 6.7s

Switching from ATF to a proper manual transmission oil will drop the RPMs where this sound is audible to 1200-1400 or in some cases alleviate it entirely.

I've never had a transmission that growled at all that didn't need an overhaul, so I was wondering what your experience was with it. I guess if you can hear a bad release bearing over engine rattle over the rollover noise, it must not be that bad.
 

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I test drove a brand new '10 that a friend of mine who lives out of state was interested in. That is the only DMF I have experience with. I don't remember it as being any quieter than mine. My trans came with a DMF. I couldn't give it away and it ended up in the scrap metal pile. Maybe the Fluidampr I have installed is responsible.
 

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The so called rollover noise that kids of today talk about is just the same in a 5.9 as a 6.7. It never bothered me in my trucks due to the fact i grew up with the good old 4spd's behind a 454...For some reason if a truck makes noises or rides like a truck its a horrible thing apparently in today's society
 

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I just bought the stick Transfercase for mine
:stirpot:
 

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The Uppity 12v Admin
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Discussion Starter #55
Got the oil-water cooler out, got the clutch fork squared away, reassembled the transmission, and found and repaired a small fuel leak. Details tomorrow.

My remaining to-do list:

  • Install transmission and crossmember.
  • Mock up transfer case shifter and modify as necessary.
  • Make exhaust mount.
  • Make wiring modifications.
  • Install transfer case and driveshafts.
  • Install boot.
  • Remove gearshift and one remaining linkage piece from column.
  • Remove gearshift indicator from instrument cluster.
  • Remove O/D Off button and eventually replace with another blockout panel.
  • Enjoy.
 

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Did my clutch fork work any better?
 

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Discussion Starter #57
You know, it actually did not. I ended up using the one I had that I modified.

The respective shapes of the forks are substantially different, but the problem I had with both was that the fork was running into one of the bolts on the input retainer. I hit the back of the fork with an angle grinder real quick and removed the washer from under the pivot ball, and got my 1/4" of free play.

Truck's completely back together and roadworthy. Still have some loose ends to tie up and found some things that would have been better to do different, but the swap is done. Details, pics, etc. tomorrow or friday.

Also...

MERRY CHRISTMAS, MOVIE HOUSE!

 

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The respective shapes of the forks are substantially different,
:confused013: That is strange. I had to repalce my fork when I replaced the release bearing a few weeks ago. It is the same part number as the one for an NV4500. 52087515
You did install it in the correct position didn't you? In your picture the pivot ball would be on the socket on the right side. On the face of the fork there is an H stamped on that end.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
The first fork I had came with the transmission and Peter recognized it as a South Bend fork. My presumption is that the factory DMF exploded and it was replaced with a South Bend clutch kit. The fork and and used throwout bearing were in the transmission when they sold it to me. When I initially mocked up the clutch and transmission, there was zero free play at all. This was with the fork unmodified and the washer under the pivot ball.

The clutch I have is somewhat of a mystery. It's a 12" dual-disc with ceramic plates, and I can't figure out who made it. The guy I bought it from (got it used) said it was a South Bend, so I sent Peter an email about it. After talking with Peter, it's most definitely not a South Bend. When I contacted Valair, Gary was able to correctly identify certain features of it, but according to him is is not a Valair clutch, saying it was of a "mixed breed" and likely custom-built for someone. Peter then emailed me back and said I should check with Kenny's Pulling Parts as they were the only other company he could think of that could have made it. Kenny's did not email be back.

I took plenty of pictures of the clutch if anyone is interested. The short version is it bears very few things in common with any South Bend clutch I've seen pictures of, and it appears to be very similar to pictures I've seen of Valair's less expensive dual-disc setup.

The PO of this clutch said that it did not include a new fork and that his factory one worked fine for him. Cody hooked me up with his factory NV4500 fork, and in completely unmodified form, my measurements of where the bearing sits on the retainer showed that it would have been tight, but it probably would have worked. However, at that point I had already modified the South Bend fork to get the recommended 1/4" of free play, so I went with that.

GAmes, you are correct. The factory arm is the same part for NV4500, NV5600, and G56 transmissions. The fork that Cody traded me has the H on the pivot ball side, and the South Bend fork I'm using has a sticker denoting the pivot ball side. Although honestly, looking at the side profile of the fork makes it pretty obvious. The South Bend fork is flatter in profile whereas the factory fork has a more pronounced curve. My guess is that the previous owner of my transmission replaced the blown-up clutch with a single disc, which I expect would have taken up less space in the bell housing than the factory DMF setup, requiring a flatter fork.

Since my hydraulics are from an '09, I have the adjustable master cylinder rod. I have yet to road test anything, I was going to do that this morning actually.
 
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