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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey there this is my first post on the fourm so dont make fun of me to much. Alright now the fun stuff i have a 2004.5 dodge 2500 Cummins and i am looking to go fast with 800 RWHP. i have the following things on my truck:
  • Suncoast stage 5 trans (billet input,output)
  • Suncoast Triple disc Converter
  • Air dog lift pump 165
  • Banks intake
  • 5in turbo back straight pipe
  • 130hp tune on mg smarty
  • industrial 100 injectors
  • ARP 2000's
I am looking to do alot more just i dont know what company?
  • So i was thinking about:
  • Value Springs (What company?)
  • I what a new tuner but aging (what company?)
  • cp3's (what company?)
  • twin turbo(what size,what company?)
intake elbow(what company)

So what do you guys think i should do? i really need help.
 

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If your going valve springs do you have a cam? If not check out Hamilton Cams that will sell you a whole package. Head studs could be ARP or A1 and I would stay away from Industrial Injection. Wicked Diesel CP3's and Exenergy Injectors...........
 

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150 - 180 hp injectors, Exergy or F1
Dual cp3's, ATS, BD, PPE
Studs, ARP 2000's
Twins, 62 over 480 (tons of options here)
Metal intercooler if yours is plastic
Full gauges

And no more Banks stuff.
 

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A1 is Hamilton, sold by ATS and others..

I wouldnt get 2000's if youre going that high 625's or A1 H-11's.. Id probably get a 2nd gen manifold swap if youre doing twins..
 

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Should I i get one?
That is a very controversial topic. I would say yes to get rid of the in cylinder egr. Many disagree.

I would go 10.6mm stroker pump from Motorsport (wicked) diesel (have fun with the single/dual debate to follow)
Exergy motorsport 60% injectors
Steedspeed manifold
The above recommended 62 over 80 (box borg warner turbos) twin setup or if you got the money consider a Garrett BB twin setup
ARP head studs

But before I spent another dime I would buy gauges
That's my .02



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He can get to his goal without the cam, but if money allows..why not?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A1 is Hamilton, sold by ATS and others..

I wouldnt get 2000's if youre going that high 625's or A1 H-11's.. Id probably get a 2nd gen manifold swap if youre doing twins..
SO i shouldn't get arp 2000'S?
A1=Hamiliton
H11= ?
2nd Gen (Exhuast?) manifolds

That is a very controversial topic. I would say yes to get rid of the in cylinder egr. Many disagree.

I would go 10.6mm stroker pump from Motorsport (wicked) diesel (have fun with the single/dual debate to follow)
Exergy motorsport 60% injectors
Steedspeed manifold
The above recommended 62 over 80 (box borg warner turbos) twin setup or if you got the money consider a Garrett BB twin setup
ARP head studs

But before I spent another dime I would buy gauges
That's my .02



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So wicked Diesel is Motorsport?
And i am really thinking about Steedspeed exhaust manifolds
 

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Yeah the 2nd gen manifold has better flow and usually ends up with lower drive pressures then 3rd gen.. H-11 is just the part number for the studs.. Hamilton makes A1 studs that are "standard", not that far off from stock, and then they make H-11's that are close to the rating of 625's but a cheaper price..
 
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But then again if you already have the 2000's in and you waste gate the turbo's at a good level you shouldnt have to worry about your HG popping. as long as you get a drive pressure gauge to check..
 

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probably but you could be fine as long as you keep drive pressure in check. may be a even better idea to get a 2nd gen manifold at this point..
 

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I run the h-11 head studs. But everything on here is strictly preference. Good Luck with the build.
 

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But then again if you already have the 2000's in and you waste gate the turbo's at a good level you shouldnt have to worry about your HG popping. as long as you get a drive pressure gauge to check..
Your head gasket isn't going to pop from drive pressure or boost pressure.
When the combustion event produces forces in the 1000's of PSI, how is drive and boost typically below 100 PSI going to stress the integrity of the HG? Bad tuning, as in too much timing is what causes problems.

IMO, DP is almost a non issue with aftermarket chargers whick always have larger housings than stockers. Except VGT's of course.
 
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When the combustion event produces forces in the 1000's of PSI, how is drive and boost typically below 100 PSI going to stress the integrity of the HG?
Thank you. I'm glad I'm not the only person on this forum who thinks that way. I've read too many threads speaking otherwise


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NP, my 66 has a tiny 13cm T3 housing and my DP is about 10% higher than boost at WOT. A huge .91 T4 typical of the 66's that are all the rage (god knows why?), will absolutely not cause any meaningful restriction.
 

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It can be an issue.. Im not saying its the only issue.. Im not looking to get into a debate about it, but I have seen a few threads about stretched head studs, and that is caused by too much cylinder pressures and not good enough exhaust flow.. I really do not think boost is ever an issue with head gaskets.. Its all about how you get the pressure inside the cylinder down.
 
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