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Placing a camera under the hood while "towing heavy" would probably produce shocking results and give a clue on the fan shroud issue details. (y)

Off topic but the Reason...
During heavy acceleration with my camper on the truck I had noticed that my bed was moving about an inch away from the cab of my truck. I thought perhaps it was a loose bed or broken mount.
Nope!
I borrowed a mag-mount remote camera from my Son's shop, placed it under the truck, and took a ride. The results were disturbing!

Analysis showed that my new $70,000 truck's frame was bending in the middle enough to pull the cab & bed away from each other by almost an inch!

It all made sense after looking at the camera. The front half of the frame is held together by the cab, the back half by the bed, but the middle has zero support, thus that is where all the flex occurs, and that is where the eventual "break" will occur.

The only question is. . .
Will it swallow a grid heater bolt first,
Or eat a fan shroud first,
Or snap in half first.

-Ej-

Well we’ve cp3 failures on the rise too.
 

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Analysis showed that my new $70,000 truck's frame was bending in the middle enough to pull the cab & bed away from each other by almost an inch!

It all made sense after looking at the camera. The front half of the frame is held together by the cab, the back half by the bed, but the middle has zero support, thus that is where all the flex occurs, and that is where the eventual "break" will occur.
What codes did it throw? Were you able to clear any CEL? LOL
 
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air is too thin, air is too thick....it's too dry....it's too humid...... people will always complain, then there are those that complain way too much, then thank god, there are some that are just happy to have shoes.
 

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rubber fan shrouds and shoe laces.....no shoes
 

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Ltngdrvr, Do you think this may be happening due to your high mileage that the motor mounts are getting sloppy and allowing excess movement of the shroud which is bolted to the engine? Sounds like it was under a high load/torque situation when this took place. Just a thought.........
From my own experience with this, I'd say no.....My 2014 truck did this when it was a month old, barely1500 miles on the ticker.

Sam
 
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Wonder what the water temp would be without the failing shroud?
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Wonder what the water temp would be without the failing shroud?
The thing is that the shroud also ducts the air from the intercooler.

And, when my original shroud failed, it was basically like it wasn't there, and when towing the temps went pretty high.

I'm really stuck trying to figure something better out, going to try and go look at a new 2020 at the nearest dealer and see what I think about how they are set up, whether I can make that work.

I hate the thought of just putting the stock setup back on it.

Also, not liking the radiator choices, either oem, cheap aftermarket that is questionable quality, or big bucks aftermarket mishimoto. Would hate to put a $775 mishimoto in and then have the stock shroud get eaten again and drive a fan blade through it.
 

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Does the 2012 have the intercooler below the radiator like 13+ trucks?

That is the other thing the oem 13+ shroud does, is draw air through the intercooler.

Looking at that pic, I would say no, it wouldn't work.
Since this hasn't been answered here...

10-12 trucks share the 03-09 front end design. Intercooler in front of radiator, so an earlier shroud would definitely not work.

Curious what you find on the 5th gen shroud, would be nice to take a closer look at one to see if they actually did change the design and improve it. There is the chance that mopar would fix a bad design, but then again, look at the third brake light leak....
 

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There is the chance that mopar would fix a bad design, but then again, look at the third brake light leak....
Good point @Loki223,
While the 3rd brake light leak is an annoyance, the fan shroud issue (much like the grid heater bolt) is what I would consider catastrophic in nature.

Considering all of FCA's eyes are on the Gen-5 and its multitude of 'new' problems I'd say @Ltngdrvr is our best hope for this.
Actually, he's our only hope.
 

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A 1” or 1.5” strip of plastic riveted to extended the rad shroud a bit might help.

But imo with the amount of miles he had on the first and low amount of failures.... makes me say throw factory on back on and keep an eye on it.spacers on the engine side mounts to add more pressure towards the rad, might help. Just some washers on the bolts should accomplish that.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
just extend the lip on the hard shroud on the radiator.
Much easier said than done, there's not much there to attach any extension to, and then you have to get that installed, it's a very tight space.
 

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actually it looks like there's enough material on the top and bottom to rivet a lip to. if you do it right you make it out of a single piece of sheet metal or plastic and wrap it around, that or push the engine side towards the radiator. it actually looks pretty straight forward
 

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Nothing to add, except that's some dang bad luck...Sorry to hear it lntgdrvr.
I was going to suggest running it without the boot, but appears you have already and saw significant coolant temp increase?
 

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Discussion Starter #80
actually it looks like there's enough material on the top and bottom to rivet a lip to. if you do it right you make it out of a single piece of sheet metal or plastic and wrap it around, that or push the engine side towards the radiator. it actually looks pretty straight forward
Should be easy to do since you’ll have everything off anyway.
Glad y'all think so, come on over and I'll let you show me!
 
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