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---Sliver Bullet--- 3rd Gen Build - Picture Heavy!

70707 Views 242 Replies 37 Participants Last post by  Sliver CTD
First off it's Sliver not Silver. Poking fun at my screen name, I was hammered when I signed up and thought it was odd no one had "Silver CTD":banghead: Oh and I cause I drink Coors Light.

The purpose of this build is to be a "nice riding" truck that can handle some speed, and some light 4 wheeling. I'd like to take it up to Easter Jeep Safari with the fam, and hit some scenic trails. It's to expensive to tow the Jeep up there.

I will start off by saying this will be a slow build. I have many other projects and my truck is not a major priority. This build will focus on the suspension improvements I will make and will serve as an on going thread, I never seem to leave well enough alone.

Current specs:

Open diff with 3.73 gears.
Stock Unit bearings
2.75" Pure Performance with 1" Daystar spacer (To make up for the 200lb winch and bumper)
Walker Evan Remote Reservoir Shocks
6" Easy Rider Control Arms (To push axle forward 1" so 37's clear inner fender)
Synergy Steering box brace.
Pure Performance Solid Panard Bar.
08+ Inverted T Steering
Carli Bilstien Stabilizer

Open diff 3.73 gears
Pure Performance 1" lift block
1.5" longer Synergy Shackles
Walker Evan Reservoir Shocks

The plan:

For the front I'm going to instal DT Pro Fab's Radius arms and brackets. They are very high quality! Beautiful welds and Powder Coat. I ordered them with Johnny Joints, and DT actually used the massive 3" Ballistic Fab Joints with the new Poly replaceable races and 3/4" through bolts. These joints are arguable the best in the business from all the reviews I've read on them. Not a bad upgrade from the 2.63" JJ's.

For steering I am going to switch back to the drop pitman arm I was using previously, as well as the drop Track Bar Bracket. I had a 6" lift installed with these items, and the stock inverted Y steering and I had no bump steer. I lower my vehicle down 3"s switch to the stock pitman arm, stock track bar mounting location, install the "new" inverted T steering, and my truck bump steers all over the road:doh: For now I will use the drop track bar bracket, but in the future I have big plans to redo all the axle brackets, at that point I will raise the axle track bar mount, and go back to the factory frame track bar mount.

I will also be switching to a 2" Daystar Poly sping spacer. With the winch and Warn mount it should net me about 4"s of front lift. I'm also hoping to squeeze in some Air Bump and of course limit straps.

Rear I'm thinking about the Carli Deaver 6" progressive springs with air bumps and limit straps.


I've got a buddy in the desert racing would that is going to give me some pricing options on some 2.5"-3" Fox or King shocks. Front will be reservoir, rear will be triple bypass.

Now onto some pics.

As it sits now:

My other projects:

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Pics of the DT Pro Fab parts.

46" long!

Very nice Grade 8 hardware included.

Frame Brackets.

Upper Links

Very nice Tig Welds

The drop bracket stuff I'm going to reuse to see if steering is improved.

Poly bushings to test ride height.
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Reserved Spot

I'm posting this now, cause I'm hoping to get some work done on the instal this weekend.
Looking forward to where this goes. Looks like an interesting build. :popcorn:
i like your last project the most... :rof

good luck, cant wait to see it and im looking forward to another dt pro-fab review! cant wait til i can afford these myself!

is that LDS in the background??

i never noticed how good rockstars look without the center caps haha
^ LDS? Not sure what that is. Latter Day Saints? It was the closest big parking lot near my house.

The Rock Stars ain't my favorite, mainly cause everyone in Bro Cal has them, but I got them shipped new from eBay for $588, the tires (37" Load Range E, ProComp Extreme MT's) I got during a 4WP Buy 3 get one free sale all 4 for $1,250, and I had a buddy that worked at Wheel Works, and he mounted and balanced them for free.

No way I could touch this tire and wheel package now a days for that price. They still have plenty of tread, so I could sell them as a set for pretty good $. I'm thinking about running some Race Line 17" Beadlocks, and maybe trying some 38"s on for size.
What drop track bar bracket is that?
Looking awesome!
^Thank you, but technically I haven't started yet, lol!

Track Bar Bracket is a really flimsy bracket that came with my Ruff Country Lift. It worked well with my 6" lift. But I don't think it will hold up to any wheeling or jumping.

I did some pricing on some front shocks, and I think I'm leaning more towards making the jump to Coil Overs. I need to do some research to see if 2.5" kings will hold up to the weight of the truck. 3" Coil Overs might be a budget killer.

Tata for now!
Drink Cocktail garnish Punch Cocktail Alcoholic beverage
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the pp drop bracket is pretty stout so its an easy upgrade you can do but coil overs are overkill.. just some thuren or carli springs with king 2.5's will do the trick. the shocks will handle more than youll end up throwing at it. its all about the valving and how you want em.

ya had to throw in a drink photo did ya?? meanwhile some of us are at work lol, thanks....
Overkill is my middle name! Sorry that was the sangria talking.

I'm hoping to not use a trac bar once my suspension is finalized. My main goal is to make this thing ride like a cadi : )

I just need to figure if at this time I really want to pull the front axle and cut all the brackets off and re weld all new brackets on to make it the way I want.

Looks like this is a problem for future Me!

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i think no matter what youll need some kind of panhard bar unless its an i beam or something. but talk to paul (rhinopkc) i hear his old truck was smooth as glass.

some thuren soft rides and super soft valved thuren kings will be your best bang for the buck and still be almost indestructable.

whichever you choose, good luck! remember your dealing with an 8k truck!

i learned this the hard way when i dropped a cummins 4bt in my 1936 chevy.. lol
Sorry about that. I meant to say I'm hoping to not use a Track Bar Drop Bracket. (Once again the sangria talking) I'm trying to do a little bit of outside the box thinking. Thuren and Carli make some awesome products, but I want this to be my own Frankenstein! But we'll see, time and money always seems to pay a toll on a build.

I went for a ride in my buddies 2011 F-350, 4" lift, load range D 37"s, and it rode amazing, and was silent at 80mph. I want that as well as off road performance. Unattainable, maybe. But that's what I'm shooting for.
I got the Radius arms brackets almost 100% Installed. I still need to drill the holes for the Pass. side bracket. Brackets went on very smoothly. I could of used a second set of hands, but a floor jack worked well.

My Jeep is hogging the garage so I'm out in the driveway. I'm hoping this week to pull the front end. I'll probably clean it up and give it a coat of Semi Flat Black.

These were my two best friends tonight. Angle drill with a 1/2 step bit is the only way I see to drill the holes. Saved me from having to remove the drive-shaft as well as the exhaust. If you have a Cat, I would say expect to have to remove it. My new 20V DeWalt angle drill made easy work of the task.

I've heard horror stories of people needing to use a frame spreader to get the tranny cross-member in and out. Mine went easy no issue at all, bolts slide right in.

With radius arms this long, I should be riding on clouds of titties!

Also made a purchase to support my new local gun store Templar Sports. The local commies are trying to get them shut down and they just opened up shop! They make some very nice products. I was digging the Sand color, my brother bought a lower from them a while back and he got his in OD Green. They offered to bake on the tan color free of change to any other part of the gun if I wanted.
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I finished up mounting the brackets, only to find that I have misplaced the sleeve adapters for the poly bushings:banghead: DT Fab is going to get back to me about if I can order just the sleeves I need and not a whole kit.

While I was crawling under my truck, I noticed that visually I didn't seem to have very much caster. After dialing in my Rock Crawler to 7*, it was obvious my truck wasn't near that. I pulled up my last alignment report, and sure enough it's right there in RED

Left side 2.1* Right side 2.9* This would explain my loose steering. My truck drives perfectly straight down the highway, no symptoms of the classic Ram pulling to the side. After looking at results I can see why, the right side has slightly more Caster, so it is properly correcting Road Crown. I kind of figured this was going to happen. I'm using 6" Lift non adjustable control arms, with only slightly over 3"s of lift. I can't wait to get the new radius arms installed, so I can properly dial in the Caster. With the large tires, and lift, I definitely want to put the caster at the top of the factory recommendations, just to help with better overall stability. I like to run my Rock Crawlers at 7* but according to the sheet the specified Max for the Dodge is 5.5*

On a side note, everything in the front end is brand new, minus Ball Joints and unit bearings.
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Nice crawler
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I'm not sure what direction I want to take this. 1: I could throw some Carli/ Thuren tuned Kings at her and be done, or 2: I could torch everything off and run coil overs. mmm....

I think there is an issue here. This is at ride height.

I almost got it all torn apart tonight. Working alone isn't very fun.
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HMMMM... well in my opinion i would do the carli/thuren kings and be done. all the guess work ic completed and thats that.

when doing coilovers, theres some number to crunch and perhaps its the line of work im in but im not of fan of the material quality dodge used on these trucks. i tend to think the springs and coils do a much better job of distributing force throught the axle to frame as a whole. these frames are tempered on these trucks so welding the very most critical point/joint for a coilover makes me nervous. and these axles bind when put through a cycle so thats another awkward stress. coilovers IMO for these trucks would require a pretty elaborate bracketing system using heliarc welding to minimize the stressing of the components.

looking good by the way. im not trying to be a downer just emphasizing what we know works. ive had to backtrack on my 1936 to many times bc i should have stuck with what works instead of trying to re-evolutionize the world lol.
Yeah good points!

I don't know to much about the Pure Performance Coils that I have now. I'm assuming they are similar spring rates as the others.

I'll make some calls tomorrow and see what I can find out.
pure coils arent bad. i have them and like em, they were similiar to the carli coils i had on my 2nd gen but thats also hard to judge bc 2nd gens use carlis hemi coils.

the one thing i am not a fan of Pure Performances coils is the powder coating. it in no way compares to carli or thurens powdercoating. and i found that surprising since they are manufactured in a yankee state with tons of snow and salt lol

i am going to start buying stuff to go to a 6 inch. im from the NM desert and i want a full dominator set up etc lol but since im in the piney part of TX i dont go off-roading as much so im going to go to thurens single rate soft ride coils to maximize my on road comfort. and ill have don valve me some super plush kings and have it all done with.. for this truck anyway.

when you make some calls tomorrow just remember the holy-trinity.... george at 8 lug, chuck/craig at strapt, and paul at CJC. individually they are some badass ingredients but when mixed together the amount of knowledge they offer is one badass pot of suspension gumbo!!:drool2:

chuck is the celery :rof sorry southern humor.
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