Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
575 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
quick question my tranny is stock i have a edge and with my SLIP GAUGE displayed and on level 4 and 5 it says its slipping?

if its slipping what will i have to fix?

im getting ready to put in a Triple disc and a heavy duty VB will it be a waste of money if the trans is slipping? or will this fix the slipping? :confused013:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,076 Posts
The slipping % is your converter. I was also getting this reading when I had my J/A and stock converter setup. I changed out the converter and vb to Suncoast units and its holding up very well. But I'm in the process of getting up some scratch to upgrade the whole trans and flexplate because of what I'm running I know its a matter of time.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,501 Posts
It could be the TC or the direct clutches, extra power will kill both. A TC and VB should cure that if the clutches are not too far gone.

These were too far gone and what happens if your not careful. ;)

 
  • Like
Reactions: bigtime04

·
Registered
Joined
·
575 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
when i turn the edge down to level 1 and 2 i get no slipping. level 3 says like 0.8 % so if i run it on mileage or tow "LVL 1,2" for a couple of weeks untill i get the TC and VB i think my clutch would be fine right? and if not how much do the clutches cost ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
when i turn the edge down to level 1 and 2 i get no slipping. level 3 says like 0.8 % so if i run it on mileage or tow "LVL 1,2" for a couple of weeks untill i get the TC and VB i think my clutch would be fine right? and if not how much do the clutches cost ?
You could adjust your line pressure via factory valve body.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,501 Posts
when i turn the edge down to level 1 and 2 i get no slipping. level 3 says like 0.8 % so if i run it on mileage or tow "LVL 1,2" for a couple of weeks untill i get the TC and VB i think my clutch would be fine right? and if not how much do the clutches cost ?
It depends on what you want to use for clutches and steels and whether you want to add more clutches. A red eagle 7 clutch\ kolene 7 steel setup is around $150 for the direct drum, and $70 for the forward drum with red eagle 7 clutch\ kolene 7 steel. The OE setup with 5 direct, 4 forward, and 5 OD using high energy clutches and OE steels is $56 per set. These prices are form PATC and will vary by source.

My advice to you to hold the power amd the tires AND fix what the bigger tires have already done is plan on rebuilding both the direct and forward clutch packs on TC install. What I posted earlier is about 30k with a Smarty and 90 HP with another 10k with a shift kit. The clutches were toast before the shift kit but the trans is tough and it did not die until it cut the lip seal in the direct drum from over extending the pistons. Look at the hub behind it, thats the input shaft and it ate it also.

Depending on how you have used OD they could also be suspect with those tires and stock pressures. It may be worth your while to replace all the clutch packs while the trans is out just to make sure you own't have to do it again soon with more damage. Something to think about.

Couple of things you need to be aware of, if your dead set on a triple disk you will need an input shaft. Triple disk + shift kit + power and its a matter of when the input breaks and possibly mesess up the TC. Billet inputs are a touchy subject and you will see lots of recs, however, an Opie shaft is the best out there. Highly consider it as the option.

A good single is an optin that would allow you to delete the billet input if so desired. Depending on how you drive and what you use the truck for it may not be needed for that scenario.

You will need to address the front band, front servo, band strut pieces, and accumulator also with a performance build or you run the risk of hurting those expensive pieces. Just one more thing to think about. :)


You could adjust your line pressure via factory valve body.
Not and make a significant difference. The springs need to be changed to make an impact that will hold the power. All you can do without changing springs is fine tune the pressure a little.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bigtime04

·
Registered
Joined
·
575 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It depends on what you want to use for clutches and steels and whether you want to add more clutches. A red eagle 7 clutch\ kolene 7 steel setup is around $150 for the direct drum, and $70 for the forward drum with red eagle 7 clutch\ kolene 7 steel. The OE setup with 5 direct, 4 forward, and 5 OD using high energy clutches and OE steels is $56 per set. These prices are form PATC and will vary by source.

My advice to you to hold the power amd the tires AND fix what the bigger tires have already done is plan on rebuilding both the direct and forward clutch packs on TC install. What I posted earlier is about 30k with a Smarty and 90 HP with another 10k with a shift kit. The clutches were toast before the shift kit but the trans is tough and it did not die until it cut the lip seal in the direct drum from over extending the pistons. Look at the hub behind it, thats the input shaft and it ate it also.

Depending on how you have used OD they could also be suspect with those tires and stock pressures. It may be worth your while to replace all the clutch packs while the trans is out just to make sure you own't have to do it again soon with more damage. Something to think about.

Couple of things you need to be aware of, if your dead set on a triple disk you will need an input shaft. Triple disk + shift kit + power and its a matter of when the input breaks and possibly mesess up the TC. Billet inputs are a touchy subject and you will see lots of recs, however, an Opie shaft is the best out there. Highly consider it as the option.

A good single is an optin that would allow you to delete the billet input if so desired. Depending on how you drive and what you use the truck for it may not be needed for that scenario.

You will need to address the front band, front servo, band strut pieces, and accumulator also with a performance build or you run the risk of hurting those expensive pieces. Just one more thing to think about. :)




Not and make a significant difference. The springs need to be changed to make an impact that will hold the power. All you can do without changing springs is fine tune the pressure a little.
thanks man really appreciate that.. there not as expensive as i thought so im def. going to change them while im in the process of doing this other stuff thanks again
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top