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Sinister delete coolant hose leak, fass fuel system… new purchase

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I have a leak here until the engine is warm. New purchase. TSD in Texas said my receipt is no good because truck switched Owners. I asked about a manufacturer warranty on the sinister delete. Just got a bad attitude towards me so I hung up.

The man has fass fuel 150gph pump and filters. All was done at the shop, but I see the factory filter is still on the side of the engine. The purpose of this on my old 7.3 was to be able to do a fuel bowl delete to open everything up so it was better and looked better. I’d like for this truck to not have that and be open. I’ve not checked if the factory bowl has a filter. I’m sure it does, just seems like more restriction and not necessarily needed. I say this because I wanted to change and fill the fass filter with seafoam, run it into the injectors, sit 15-20 minutes and blow it out. I did this on my tractor, my old 7.3 and it always ran better afterwards. The man i purchased the truck from told me “he didn’t believe or like injector cleaners” truck has 117k miles 2012 model. He didn’t really drive it. The fass fuel sump. The fuel gauge wasn’t reading right as it was empty and only held 25 gallons I read the mega cab hold 34 gallons I believe. The more I run the truck the better but imo needs seafoam ran through new filters and injectors and a good ratio mixed in the fuel tank.

Thank you. I wish this part that is leaking would’ve been a flexible braided line. The exhaust vent screw by the leak. I’m not sure what that is for.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes sir, I’ll see if napa has one. Sinister, called them and they stopped selling delete kits. Maybe why the shop wasn’t in a good mood. I’ll do that Saturday. The factory fuel bowl. I’ll have to Google that. Sinister didn’t really have any advice on that.

 

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Might take some searching, but try to find a product like those pictured below, i think people have been able to find them on Ebay since the EPA shutdown deletes. Issue is there isn't enough positive pressure holding it together, so the O-ring will eventually fail again, you need to be able to apply positive pressure


actually...just checked the links in that thread, still a live link with @Glacier Diesel Power so hopefully that fitting is still available, great fitting. Put one on my 12 to solve the issue as well
 

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Yes sir, I’ll see if napa has one. Sinister, called them and they stopped selling delete kits. Maybe why the shop wasn’t in a good mood. I’ll do that Saturday. The factory fuel bowl. I’ll have to Google that. Sinister didn’t really have any advice on that.
It is the same for any 6.7 Cummins truck (the O-Ring). You don't need a specific part other than the original EGR cooler replacement O-Ring. I have heard the Glacier Diesel Products part is a top-quality product that will prevent further leaks down the line.
 

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I have a leak here until the engine is warm. New purchase. TSD in Texas said my receipt is no good because truck switched Owners. I asked about a manufacturer warranty on the sinister delete. Just got a bad attitude towards me so I hung up.

The man has fass fuel 150gph pump and filters. All was done at the shop, but I see the factory filter is still on the side of the engine. The purpose of this on my old 7.3 was to be able to do a fuel bowl delete to open everything up so it was better and looked better. I’d like for this truck to not have that and be open. I’ve not checked if the factory bowl has a filter. I’m sure it does, just seems like more restriction and not necessarily needed. I say this because I wanted to change and fill the fass filter with seafoam, run it into the injectors, sit 15-20 minutes and blow it out. I did this on my tractor, my old 7.3 and it always ran better afterwards. The man i purchased the truck from told me “he didn’t believe or like injector cleaners” truck has 117k miles 2012 model. He didn’t really drive it. The fass fuel sump. The fuel gauge wasn’t reading right as it was empty and only held 25 gallons I read the mega cab hold 34 gallons I believe. The more I run the truck the better but imo needs seafoam ran through new filters and injectors and a good ratio mixed in the fuel tank.

Thank you. I wish this part that is leaking would’ve been a flexible braided line. The exhaust vent screw by the leak. I’m not sure what that is for.
You can do what you want with seafoam in the front fuel filter. It’s your money, but don’t put it in your fuel tank.
If you want water emulsion in your fuel and send it through your HPCR and injectors then have at it.
It’s not a 7.3 or a tractor.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Might take some searching, but try to find a product like those pictured below, i think people have been able to find them on Ebay since the EPA shutdown deletes. Issue is there isn't enough positive pressure holding it together, so the O-ring will eventually fail again, you need to be able to apply positive pressure


actually...just checked the links in that thread, still a live link with @Glacier Diesel Power so hopefully that fitting is still available, great fitting. Put one on my 12 to solve the issue as well
This definitely looked like the best long term alternative. I ordered one, very pricey little thing after shipping. The more I looked at the design on the one I have I didn’t like it. I was questioning why it wasn’t a one piece braided line. If this adapter works I’ll be happy. Don’t want to be worried about coolant leaks when it’s summer. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You can do what you want with seafoam in the front fuel filter. It’s your money, but don’t put it in your fuel tank.
If you want water emulsion in your fuel and send it through your HPCR and injectors then have at it.
It’s not a 7.3 or a tractor.
I was looking because the fass setup and want to change those to Cat filters and do the factory bowl delete. I may run seafoam in the factory bowl before I remove it for the injectors. I have no clue on adding it to the fuel tank. Injector cleaners can be a topic if its own but I’ll take it into consideration and just run it into the filter for now till I know more on 6.7s. My question is to delete the bowl is all. Fleece I think makes the delete.
 

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I saw this but it maybe it’s on A newer model. I see why everyone was building on these inline Diesels. The V shape diesels are just hard to work on. I’ll miss my 7.3 didn’t want to get rid of it but a family member needed it. Currently I’m seeing that I should take delete the heater grid and clean that stuff up.Get that fuel bowl out of there. Less junk in the way the better. Mine was deleted around 55k… motor has pretty much no blow by. I don’t like the transmission tuning. I feel it shifts over 3-4th gear quick and would like all the gears to run through. Pretty sure that’s TDS tuning tho.
 

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I saw this but it maybe it’s on A newer model. I see why everyone was building on these inline Diesels. The V shape diesels are just hard to work on. I’ll miss my 7.3 didn’t want to get rid of it but a family member needed it. Currently I’m seeing that I should take delete the heater grid and clean that stuff up.Get that fuel bowl out of there. Less junk in the way the better. Mine was deleted around 55k… motor has pretty much no blow by. I don’t like the transmission tuning. I feel it shifts over 3-4th gear quick and would like all the gears to run through. Pretty sure that’s TDS tuning tho.
Why would you need to remove the grid htr?
As for the EGR bypass, I would just get rid of it and have no o-rings to deal with it. I would put my effort there.
 
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