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Discussion Starter #1
Ive never done a turbo swap, Can't be all that difficult right? Any one have any tips, guidence, words of wisdom?

Thanks
 

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Install the turbo to the manifold on the bench, it's twice as fast if you get a hand and just bolt both to the truck as a unit.

Get a set of these gaskets for the manifold, they are close to the same price as the ATS / II ones and are reusable for a long time.... the design of them makes them really sweet for lining up and quick install

Be sure to adjust the wastegate with shop air befor you install, the wastegate actuator on the underslung 3rd gen turbos are virtually impossible to reach with a human arm.... get it set where you want it before you bolt it on and your in good shape.

Loosen the compressor cover bolts before you install if your gonna need to clock the housing to align properly with shock tower and charge air pipe.

Think about head studs if your gonna go beyond the factory preset 42PSI
 

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I bleed diesel
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I agree with Jack, remove the manifold and install the turbo on a work bench. Those gaskets in the link provided look sweet.

You will have to shift your exhaust back about an inch for the new turbo and you'll have to shim your transmission dipstick about a 1/2" to clear the exhaust housing on the new turbo. On mine, I didn't have to clock the compressor housing, it was just fine. I also didn't adjust the wastegate before installation, I have enough adjustment in the boost elbow that goes into the compressor housing. If you're making too much boost just turn the set screw out in 1/4 turn increments until you reach the boost you want.

One very important thing to remember though and I'll make it in bold letters so you don't forget. Install the drain tube on the new turbo before it goes on the truck. When installing the drain tube use a light coat of RTV sealant on the drain tube gasket or it will leak oil and when you install it on the truck make sure the drain tube is fully inserted into the engine block.

When you have it all assembled look everything over and ensure all the bolt are tight.
 

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PB blaster at least a couple of dAys b4 make loosing everything way easier....you'll thank your self later. Other then that turbos are way easy
 

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Get some help! It will be worth a steak dinner for a friend to help hold that heavy chunk of iron for the R&R.

Might save a strained back also.

It might help to remove the right front tire and inner fender liner to be able to get to the bottom bolts and the band clamp easier.

Randy
 

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Wow some great info on this thread...everything I was gonna tell ya has already been said.:thumbsup
 

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take off in one piece and put the turbo and manifold together on a bench. **install the oil return line on turbo it is a pain to install after it is on truck**
 

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one big one everyone has forgotten about, is the damn coolant line bracket. i cut mine off it makes the swap alot easier. and like everyone else says do not forget to install the oil line first.. good luck and happy motoring.
 

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I could not get my oil line out of the block so I struggled the first time putting it in because the drain line was turned too far back it was basically hidden behind the wastegate head. When i had it back out I loosened the bolts that hold all 3 peices together and twisted the center section out to make more room to get the drain back on. I also used a plain 3/8" stud about 2" long threaded into the head in the middle port to help hold the manifold and turbo combination in place until I got the bolts in.
 

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I bleed diesel
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one big one everyone has forgotten about, is the damn coolant line bracket. i cut mine off it makes the swap alot easier. and like everyone else says do not forget to install the oil line first.. good luck and happy motoring.

Good catch!! I cut that bracket too.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks everyone for the info I am diving in on friday afternoon. I have the turbo and it is sweet. However on the tag it says 3rd gen 62- 80. Anyone know why ? I thought it was a 62-74.
 

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prob a .80 a/r housing.....

install on mine took less than 45 min by my self. then again mine is non wastegated, so even tho mines physicly much larger, theres alot more room.
 

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and you'll have to shim your transmission dipstick about a 1/2" to clear the exhaust housing on the new turbo.
Any more info on this?

Do you mean to make a tab and push the support bracket 1/2" more towards the trans housing or do you mean to create a 1/2" spacer between the support bracket and the trans hole for the mounting bolt?

For the life of me, I cannot seem to get the stock elbow to clear the trans dipstick and think I will need to either rebend the dipstick tube or move it out of the way, with another longer support bracket........
 
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