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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2018 RAM 3500 dually. It is subject to the steering drag link recall. My truck has 13k miles on it. The right front tire has quite a bit of outer shoulder wear, and the truck pulls to the right. I have to countersteer slightly everywhere I go, and it has been this way I think from new.

I made an appointment - not excited to have the nuts welded but what can I do? The green paint marks on the nuts and adjuster have not moved and everything is tight.

Should I have to pay for an alignment? I thought this was part of the recall procedure?

Thanks in advance
 

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I thought someone else on here already ordered a replacement and FCA reimbursed them for it....instead of having to let them weld the nuts on temporarily while they figure it out? Anyway, if thats an option then I'd replace it and let a good alignment shop align it. I've finally found a place here that does a decent job...after going through 3 alignments else where, so good luck.
 

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Had mine done last week (recall). The alignment was included per warranty.
 

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The dealer will adjust the toe if needed. Then they’ll set the steering wheel straight and weld the adjuster sleeve nut. Adjusting the toe can offset the steering wheel, that’s why they check before welding.
 

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All trucks pull to the right a little because of the road camber, I notice it more in the 2500 then others I have driven. When the road cambers to the left for rain run off it pulls to the left a little, reminds me its the road and not the alignment. They should align it as part of the recall, but usually will not align it for free just because its off unless they are being generous.

I am waiting for them to decide on my synergy replacement reimbursement, submitted this week. Early on they were reimbursing everyone, but lately it seems to be hit or miss. For $300 buck and I installed it myself, its worth it just to have a non welded drag link. I loosened the nuts on my old one, and the amount of play in the shaft and adjusting sleeve was so bad I have no confidence those spot welds is an end all solution. I would think hitting a curb real hard might easily break it, at least on mine with the free play in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
All trucks pull to the right a little because of the road camber, I notice it more in the 2500 then others I have driven. When the road cambers to the left for rain run off it pulls to the left a little, reminds me its the road and not the alignment.
Nah, I'm not buying it. I realize if the road is crowned then the truck will want to drift over to the low side. But the truck pulls right on flat gravel roads, dirt roads, interstate highways, and city streets. My previous 2017 Ford F-350 dually did not exhibit this behavior, despite having a very similar suspension to the RAM dually. Plus, it's wearing out the right front tire outer shoulder. Clearly, something is wrong.
 

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Nah, I'm not buying it. I realize if the road is crowned then the truck will want to drift over to the low side. But the truck pulls right on flat gravel roads, dirt roads, interstate highways, and city streets. My previous 2017 Ford F-350 dually did not exhibit this behavior, despite having a very similar suspension to the RAM dually. Plus, it's wearing out the right front tire outer shoulder. Clearly, something is wrong.
Thats why I said a little and it pulls left on different roads, if it 100% pulls right all the time, yeah you got a problem. Just some people do not think to pay attention to the pull in various conditions like you did, and most roads are cambered to the right.
 

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Like someone else said, they will set the toe if needed, but that's it and toe will not cause a pulling problem. Mine also pulls to the right which has nothing to do with the crown of the road or anything else except an alignment issue. I assumed they would do a full alignment when I took it in for the recall, but it's no different now except the nuts are welded.

The wheel isn't straight because I am always slightly pulling it down on the left to keep the truck straight. I don't drive it much so haven't done anything about it yet. Can't decide if I want to get a Synergy or wait for the "possible" upgrade bar from FCA. Either way, it has to get to an alignment shop and get the caster set right, which I should have had them do when I took it in for the recall.
 

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If it pulls, the first thing I would do is see if both caster adjusters are pointed in the same direction. If they are not, try loosening one and setting it the same as the other. Having them different does not set or create cross caster like it might on an independent front suspension but it will cause one side to be higher/lower or ahead/behind than the other.
 

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The wheel isn't straight because I am always slightly pulling it down on the left to keep the truck straight. I don't drive it much so haven't done anything about it yet. Can't decide if I want to get a Synergy or wait for the "possible" upgrade bar from FCA. Either way, it has to get to an alignment shop and get the caster set right, which I should have had them do when I took it in for the recall.
My truck behaves exactly the same way, crooked steering wheel and all...

I purchased the truck new, but the d-link was already welded (can't sell vehicles with open recalls). Thuren specs didn't do much, so today I am having the Synergy put on and let the alignment shop straighten the wheel and do factory specs alignment. I'll report how it goes.

OP - alignment is covered for 12 months under warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the note about alignment being covered in the first year. I'm within that period since I purchased in mid November of 2018. I do have 13.5k miles, hopefully it is not a 12/12 warranty.

I will make it clear with them about my expectations. Since the right front is worn, would it be worth paying them to remount the spare to the front rim, so everything is good again?

I also plan to ask them to grease the front double cardan joint, since it is awkward to do and has not been done yet, despite me already doing two oil changes.
 

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How much is worn? Mine was starting to feather the outside of the right front like yours, and I just rotated the tires. But I am well out of warranty so not sure what your dealer will say.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
How much is worn? Mine was starting to feather the outside of the right front like yours, and I just rotated the tires. But I am well out of warranty so not sure what your dealer will say.
Most of the tread has worn off the outermost rib on the right front. I'm just looking for an alignment, not a new tire or anything.
 

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Most of the tread has worn off the outermost rib on the right front. I'm just looking for an alignment, not a new tire or anything.

Damn, with only 13.5k miles, you probably have a bigger problem than I do. I would definitely get it looked at asap.
 

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I also plan to ask them to grease the front double cardan joint, since it is awkward to do and has not been done yet, despite me already doing two oil changes.
This is not something I would pay for unless you are able to observe it being done and grease coming out of the cardan joint. First, it's not D day on it, by any means, Your front driveshaft doesn't even spin in 2wd and every truck since 02? to 2014 the frotn ds spins all the time and most of them never get greased.
I'm at 170k miles and have greased it 3-4 times and still on original front driveshaft components. Probably have, more than most, 20-30k miles in 4wd at this point.
Second, this grease point seems to be a frigging mystery to most, including mechanics (not good mechanics, but some mechanics), so the chance of it getting done right or done at all unless you're supervising it is not 100%.

It's a good time to just remove the front driveshaft, then it's easier to grease and a great time to anti seize the driveshaft bolts so they're not rusted in 10 years form now when you do have to work on it.
On a new style Ram with CAD fornt axle, unless I was using 4x4 alot, I'd grease it once every 50k miles maybe.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Interesting, Grit Dog.

I use 4x4 in my truck a fair amount, not just during the 4 months of winter but also during the 5th month of mud season, and then most times I am on dirt roads which have uphill sections.

Maybe I'll just do it myself. I saw the sticker under the hood that says every oil change, which I assume is every 15k.
 

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Maybe I'll just do it myself. I saw the sticker under the hood that says every oil change, which I assume is every 15k.
Umm, technically that should be at least every six months, if you follow the manual.

Like grit Dog, I'll get around to put some lube in mine one of these years.
 

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Even if the alignment is free, if they set it to factory specs, it's not even worth doing. Total toe must be dead zero or at least 0.05 degrees (see Thuren alignment form). The factory toe spec is causing your front tire scrubbing. Mine was way out when I bought it with 17k and the fronts were showing some scrubbing on the outside too. It also pulled to the right slightly. I took it to an independent shop and had the toe set to 0 and tires rotated. The pulling went away and I've put on about 6k miles since then, so my tires are now more evenly worn (I run 55 psi in the rear fwiw).

My wheel is also slightly off to the left, but I decided not to let them cut the d-link welds and try to get it right. Figured I'd get a Synergy d-link and set it right some day.
 
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