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Discussion Starter #1
I realize that my 6.4 truck doesn't exactly fit on Cumminsforum.com, but most of the other message boards aren't loaded with "working" trucks. Pretty simple project just a dab of fabrication, reworking a flatbed, and a touch of wiring. Figured folks might be interested in the new chassis.

Here is its fresh from the dealer '14, 2500, Outdoorsman, 6.4, barebones with rubber floors and a bench seats.

Tintet the windows and drove it for 3 weeks (spreading fertilizer and didn't have time to work on it.) Then pulled the bed.



The 1st and 2nd pickup bed mounts are the same height (3rd is higher by the thickness of the reciever hitch mount) it it takes 2" to get over the gooseneck crossmember. The deck of the flatbed is currently 45" off the ground making it 3" taller than my '05 was with the same bed.

Set my old bed on, squared and trued it up. It is 80" wide and 84" long, it doesn't stick out much past the factory receiver hitch.

Started mounting my steps. 1.75" hrew, 2" square, 99" long. Frame has some pretty good mounting points. Front has a hole just above the radius arm, transfer case skid has a pair of threaded holes and a set of holes about 20" back from the transfer case skid. No good place to mount at the rear, likely tie the steps to the toolboxes on the flatbed (coming soon)

I'm waiting on a second set of tool boxes, 17" ahead of the axle and 23" aft of the axle. Wanted to drive the truck some so I wired up the tail lamps, backup lamps are in the mail. I have read and reread the instructions for from rambodybuilder.com, now I wish I would have ordered a truck with the VSIM. Looks like I will have to add multiple 10ohm 50watt resistors (license plate, left turn, right turn, reverse, and parking)
Still need to figure out the fuel filler, ram has a upfitter fuel filler neck but at $500 I think I can make a modified stock one work. Hope to have everything finished up in a few weeks (welded, sandblasted, powder coated, wired and mounted)

Tommy
 

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Cool thanks, great photos not often posted with the bed off. One thing I'm very curious on is what appears to be a snubber type shock absober mounted off the top of the diff (I assume)?? Can you get another photo of this showing how it's mounted?
 

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Its coming along!

I am about to fab up some steps for my truck. I have plenty of 2" tubing to play with but I am not very happy about attachment points, or the lack thereof.
 

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Good stuff.

Whats the fat nosed critter in the background? Thats a cool lookin ol truck.

Really nice looking JD as well. My dad has one of those we use to use, looked far worse then yours but you could get it running everytime regardless of how long it sat.
 

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Cool thanks, great photos not often posted with the bed off. One thing I'm very curious on is what appears to be a snubber type shock absober mounted off the top of the diff (I assume)?? Can you get another photo of this showing how it's mounted?
It's part of the new rear coil spring suspension
These are someone else's pictures




 

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Discussion Starter #7
Its coming along!

I am about to fab up some steps for my truck. I have plenty of 2" tubing to play with but I am not very happy about attachment points, or the lack thereof.
I was inspired by white-knuckle off road's power wagon rock sliders (Dodge Power Wagon Rock Sliders) I just didn't care for the kick out, nothing for '14s and the $$$. Mounts on a '14 weren't bad except for the rear most, if not for the flatbed I would have no idea what to do short of drilling and sleaving the frame. I will be powder coated and finished for around the cost of shipping.

Good stuff.

Whats the fat nosed critter in the background? Thats a cool lookin ol truck.

Really nice looking JD as well. My dad has one of those we use to use, looked far worse then yours but you could get it running everytime regardless of how long it sat.
Green is a '53 Chevy COE, Red is a '47 Dodge COE and orange is a '51 Chevy COE hybrid (parts on that truck cover 50 years of GM) the old JD "B" hasn't ran in years, it just rides around on the truck. Sometimes it is easier to stack junk than to sweep around it. The other Deere is a semi unusual 4020 hydraulic front wheel assist (precursor to the modern mechanical front wheel assist)



Tilled the garden, truck tractor and trailer weights 16,400lbs. The 6.4/66rfe felt much better than my 5.9/48re. The lower reverse gear is definitely an improvement, my '05 was a joke backing up loaded and the lower first is nice as well.

Tommy
 

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Discussion Starter #9
LED backup lamps arrived from amazon.com. they have seperate bright (brake) and dim (marker) so I can have backup and work lamps with minimal effort, no diodes and relays. I have a pair of brake and reverse lamps for the headache rack, saving them for post powdercoat. I now have 5 messages on the evic about inoperable lamps ( left turn, right turn, park, license plate, reverse) on the upside only the dash and sideview mirrors hyperflash.

Wife's horsey trailer finally showed up, nearly 5 months after she ordered it. The stem is all the way retracted, but it should level out when it loads.


I called the dealership about a few problems.
1. dash lights flickering
2. 3 times it has long cranked and failed to start. Just bump the key and it turns over for 10-15 sec and quits
3. It has a funny colored spot in the right rear door. It isn't bad, but it shows up in every picture and once you see it you can't un-see it. Also it is smooth like wetsad/buff when the rest of the truck has the Mopar fish eye finnish
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Modifying the front driverside toolbox, had to make room for the fuel filler hose. Chunk of 3.5" exhaust "frenched" in for clearance.



Passenger side boxes tacked in place (only on the outside edge, they are not hanging plumb)


They stick out past the bedside an inch or so, but they lay pretty well inline with the fender flares and side steps

The rear toolbox is farther from the tire than the front, judging by the control arm angle the tire will likely go forward so rubbing won't be an issue, more welding and grinding to go, then finnish the skirting. Little sand blast and powder coat. Dealer is going to paint the truck (when I get it to them)

Tommy
 

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Discussion Starter #12


Trimming, measuring, fitting and tacking are nearly finished. Finnish fitting the triangle on the right side, couple little filler plates, rear step mount on both sides, and few little toolbox gussets. Hopefully a weekend of welding, the end is nearer.
 

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Thanks for sharing. That is a nice looking truck...even though you got lurred to the darkside by the hemi :hehe: I was skeptical at first about how the deck would look but I saw your vision once the boxes started getting mounted! Looks very clean - one of the nicest I have seen. Can't wait to see it painted and completed! Keep this thread updated :thumbsup:

Are you going to finish the deck any differently then it was originally (ie. boxliner)? or just paint it again?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Thanks for sharing. That is a nice looking truck...even though you got lurred to the darkside by the hemi :hehe: I was skeptical at first about how the deck would look but I saw your vision once the boxes started getting mounted! Looks very clean - one of the nicest I have seen. Can't wait to see it painted and completed! Keep this thread updated :thumbsup:

Are you going to finish the deck any differently then it was originally (ie. boxliner)? or just paint it again?
I crossed into the V motor darkside. I have always been an inliner (Jeep 2.5, multiple 4.0s, and a pair of Cummins 5.9)

I like the slick deck, you can unload loader buckets and hay spikes with a brake check. Scoot pallets from the tail to the nose and back off. I could see where the Berliner would be handy for some things, but I don't think it is for me.

I've had the bed for 6 years, I actually got used to the look. I get picked on because the truck has unusual proportions but it is very practical. Nearly the cargo space of a longbed, but more maneuverable on the 149.5" wheelbase, easier to cross terraces. The only downside is my gooseneck ball is just behind the axle instead of where Ram want's it.


Thinking about alittle rubber on the rear step mount, the truck shouldn't twist thanks to the new frame design, but you never know. Front anti-sway bar link from a Jeep Cherokee and the upper mount is the rear anti-sway arm mount from the same rig.





Looking like a weekend welding party for me
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Last update for a while.

Pickup bed sitting with his buddies
Flatbed setting up where I can work on it

gathered everything up in a neat pile
Loaded up and headed out. Truck went to dealership for paint touch up and instrument cluster lights, while the bed and steps went to powder coat. Powder is going to take some time, apparently this is the peak time for lawn furniture refinishing.
Might have the truck in a week and the bed in 2ish. Marathon seat covers were ordered in late January, called to check on them, and looking at late April delivery.
I have been without a personal flatbed truck since the first week of the year, beginning to wonder if I really need it after all.

Tommy
 

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I am eager to see it back from the powdercoaters! Don't forget to post when you get it back together :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have been study/tinkering with the lamps, specifically LEDs. I didn't know to order the upfitter switches (you can ground wire "L563" on the CBC) or to order a truck with a VSIM (ground circuit W509)

The truck requires 7 incandescent bulbs on the back to make the EVIC happy.
left turn, left park, left backup, right turn, right park, right backup and license. Rather than buy, mount and wire resistors (9 or 10 ohm, 50 watt power resistor in parallel with each LED) I'm going to install incandescent lamps in the rear toolboxes (1turn/run each) and a pair of incandescent backup downward facing under the bed and a incandescent license plate lamp. The left side will have 2 led turn/run and 1 led reverse/work light and same on the right. Headache rack will have turn/run and reverse/work light on each side powered from the trailer harness. I am torn on giving the work lamps 12v constant and a switch or pull in power from the trailer park lamps and adding a switch (difference between lights that always work or lights that I can kill the power to, preventing them being left on overnight)

Tommy
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I hauled the truck home yesterday. The door looks much better.

I have to add a few light pigtails, I'll try to scale it as I assemble it.

Still waiting on the bed and seat covers.

Tommy
 

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I'd vote lights that you can kill power too. Although you will probably never forget to shut them off (assuming you are only using them at night so it would be pretty hard to walk away and not realize you left your bright work lights on) that extra sense of security is nice. I have always wired direct to 12v for simplicity but I think the park lamp method would be worth it for piece of mind.
 
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