[TXAustin]

No you can reuse the same shocks. If you are upgrading shocks you can get them an inch longer though if you would like.

 

[07Bighorn]

:agree2: you can run the stockers just have to remember you will have 2" less down travel of the shock.
if you have it apart just put new shocks then and have some new ones.. I put a set of procomp ES9000's on they were about $150 for all 4 but they were toast within 40k
and most 4x4 shops will know what to get you when you tell them the front is leveled...

 

[Its a Diesel Punk!!]

OMG!!!!! i wanna have sex w/ your avatar!!!!!....i used my oem shock for the longest time when i leveled mine,probably about 20k...but when u upgrade i would advise gettin Bildteins

 

[1tonofsh!t]

if you are going to swap out shocks i recommend the bilstein 5100's. Had them on my old truck, my new truck and i'm sure others can atest that they are kick for price. And look sweet too. they make a 2" longer than stock length for small lifts and leveling kits.

 

[patrick.durbahn]

I just ordered this kit for my 07 ram

Daystar 2in Leveling Kit 94-09 Dodge RAM 4WD KC09101BK - $139.95

Do i need anything else. I accidentally posted it in the 2nd gen forum and they said that I would need an adjustable track bar. I am planning on getting new shocks in the next year and putting 295 70 17 or 285 75 17 nittos on. thanks

 

[TXAustin]

You should not need a new track bar for this. At least I have never heard of a soul doing so.

Also, please fill out your sig so we know what you are driving.

 

[R_Zachs]

when i installed my procomp kit i left the stockers in. when i do get around needing new shocks i will prolly be getting the +2" 5100's, everyone seems to like them. not sure yet.

 

[04.524VCR]

sweet thanks for the info and suggestions...ive heard good things about the bilstiens also....and i get that alot about m avatar...lol :drool2:

 

[bmucci]

i just did mine with the 2.5" hell bent kit and used the stock shocks.i dont drive on real ruff terrain so its been fine but if i did it again i would definatly do the shock upgrade while your in there.i still used my stock track bar and only adjusted the steering link to center up the wheel again that was slightly off.i plan on aligning it soon to make sure the caster is still good,the lift shouldnt affect toe as far as i can see.i had no death wobble issues either and i had the truck doing 140km on the highway and max about 80km in the snow covered roads in 4wd,but i just replaced my tires with new toyos at the same time.good luck.oh ya dibs on the sex with your avatar.lol

 

[patrick.durbahn]

I canceled my order for the daystars and ordered a set of hell bents 2". I am going to use my existing shocks for now and change them all in another 50k miles or less. Will i need a new steering stabilizer? If so, any suggestions? I think I decided on 285 75 17 nitto terra grapplers for tires. These are load e rated, I was told that is what I should use instead of load d rated. Anyone dislike this tire for any reason. thanks

 

[bmucci]

i put in the 2.5" hell bent on mine and i didnt use a spring compressor.that extra 1/2" ended up being a ******* to get them in.i had to undo the upr/lwr trailing arms and steering link to gain that little extra.im sure the compressor would of made easy work of it. if you can afford the shocks now i would do them now then worry about the rears.you'll know once you get into it if its that much of a pain then decide.if your paying someone to do it then get them now,they have to remove them anyways.all in all i love the leveling kit.good luck

 

[Fisherguy]

You should not need a new track bar for this. At least I have never heard of a soul doing so.

Also, please fill out your sig so we know what you are driving.

You won't "need" a new track bar but your axle will be off center, shifted toward the driver's side, a new trackbar is a good idea.

Also your diff will end up being pulled closer to your fenders, if you run 35's you may have clearance issues there depending what wheels you use. Longer control arms would help.

Did my spacers without a spring compressor, make sure you undo the sway bar ends, shouldn't need to undo control arms. Get a fat friend to sit on the diff or put a bottle jack between the diff and frame to get that extra little bit of room, should only take a couple pumps to get enough room.

 

[100%Mopar]

I agree with fisherguy and I have found thats the axle will drop more if you also take the track bar loose from the frame.

 

[BMABITY]

You won't "need" a new track bar but your axle will be off center, shifted toward the driver's side, a new trackbar is a good idea.

Also your diff will end up being pulled closer to your fenders, if you run 35's you may have clearance issues there depending what wheels you use. Longer control arms would help.

Did my spacers without a spring compressor, make sure you undo the sway bar ends, shouldn't need to undo control arms. Get a fat friend to sit on the diff or put a bottle jack between the diff and frame to get that extra little bit of room, should only take a couple pumps to get enough room.

Did you adjust the caster adjustments on the lower control arms when finished with the spacer kit?

Looking to install the same kit on my dads truck and needed to know if I should adjust the caster back to stock...

 

[Fisherguy]

Yah, I cranked them to 'lengthen' the control arms, mainly I did it trying to get more tire clearance at the fenders.

 

[BMABITY]

Yah, I cranked them to 'lengthen' the control arms, mainly I did it trying to get more tire clearance at the fenders.

If you had to do all over again would you do the 2.5" or stick with the 2.0"? Im cusious because of tire clearence, were going to run the stock rims with 35's so would teh extra 1/2" be helpful? I do not want to get into purchasing new comtrol arms, are the stock arms suitable for the 2.5" in your opinion?

 

[Fisherguy]

I played with that one day, got my floor jack out, measured the truck and jacked it up with the wheel turned, didn't help at all. Ya gotta remember the higher you lift the truck the more the axle gets pulled into the fenders.

If you're running stock wheels your 35's should clear the fenders without a problem but will rub your control arms slightly when you crank it hard which is not a big deal I don't think. H2's move things out an inch or 2, tires clear the control arms but come close at the fenders and make the 35's stick out too much IMO unless you get flares.


I don't like it when the front is higher than the rear, sure I can raise the back with my air bags but that stiffens things up too.

 

[Jimmy_pop]

Yah, I cranked them to 'lengthen' the control arms, mainly I did it trying to get more tire clearance at the fenders.

congrats, you just totally screwed your alignment.
Ram steering specs

 

[Fisherguy]

congrats, you just totally screwed your alignment.
Ram steering specs

How do you figure that? That link proves nothing. Truck tracks and drives fine, doesn't pull or wander at all.

Climb under there and have a look at what happens when you lift the truck, it's simple geometry.
Raising the truck means you'll end up with the bottom of the diff closer to the fenders than before you lifted it, that's why you need to make the lower arm longer to put it back closer to what it was. Why do you think many of the aftermarket control arms have adjustable lowers?

If you have 3" Kore springs and haven't done anything with your control arms your truck must be all over the place.