shock absorber replacement procedure

No need to remove the batteries or boxes. Just remove the top nut on the shock and then the three nuts on the shock tower. It takes a little maneuvering but they'll come out.


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Hoss TX said:

No need to remove the batteries or boxes. Just remove the top nut on the shock and then the three nuts on the shock tower. It takes a little maneuvering but they'll come out.


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They'll come out from where? I have a 2012 4X4 and when looking at the engine bay there is no wiggle room anywhere to pull a shock from the top that I can see. Please go into more detail. I will not be using a lift. Will I need to remove the inner wheel wells? It appears to me the batteries have to come out. I tried to find a video on u-tube but only found the shock version that is outside the spring.

Hoss TX said:

No need to remove the batteries or boxes. Just remove the top nut on the shock and then the three nuts on the shock tower. It takes a little maneuvering but they'll come out.


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As Hoss said, remove the 3 nuts holding the shock tower as well as the nut holding the top stud of the shock to the shock tower. Remove the shock tower mount. Remove lower shock bolt and the shock should come literally straight up and out!

You can remove those items (batteries and wheel liners) if you really want to but no real need to do so. You'd just be making for more work than really needed... If you do disconnect just one battery all your settings should remain un changed...

I replaced my shocks on my 12 2500 about 3 months ago. It's really easy. No need to remove liner or batteries. You will need to jack up the side you're working on though.
Remove the lower shock bolt.
Remove the 3 nuts on the shock tower.
Jack up the front till you have enough wiggle room to pull the shock and tower up.
If you don't use a jack you will fight it. Found that out on the passenger side. Used a jack on the driver side and it was a lot easier.
Shouldn't take more than 20 mins a side with the jack.
I also used an impact gun on the lower bolt.
I had my son helping and it's definitely easier with another set of hands, but not necessary, just may take a little longer.

I'm not sure what purpose the jack serves. Are you jacking up the frame or the axle?

Anyway, to the OP, just give it a shot. Loosen the top and bottom nut/bolt on the shock and then the three nuts on the shock tower. You can just move the shock tower to the side and pull the shock right out the top. No need to remove batteries or fender liners. I've done it twice on my truck and it's a 2012 4WD like yours. I promise it works.


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The passenger side is easier than the driver side, for what it's worth, but both will come out.


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I used the jack to lift the body up. I jacked it up till the tire was about off the ground. On the drivers side it allow you to move the lower part of the shock to get it out. We fought the passenger side a bit, but did get it out w/o jacking up the truck. If I had to do it again I would jack each side. It only takes a min to jack it up, but takes longer to fight it. The towers won't come straight out they need to pivot at the top a little. Drivers side is the worst side.

012cummins said:

I used the jack to lift the body up. I jacked it up till the tire was about off the ground. On the drivers side it allow you to move the lower part of the shock to get it out. We fought the passenger side a bit, but did get it out w/o jacking up the truck. If I had to do it again I would jack each side. It only takes a min to jack it up, but takes longer to fight it. The towers won't come straight out they need to pivot at the top a little. Drivers side is the worst side.

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Gotcha. And yeah, now that you mention it, that's what I did too. Once to install my leveling kit and once to install Bilsteins. Jacking up the frame definitely takes some of the pressure off the shock and makes it easier to get in and out.

That's the info I was hoping to get. That's why I use this forum. Thanks to everyone above for very useful information.