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Discussion Starter #1
I had a tensioner go out on me and ordered the gates tensioner part number (38285). This is on a 05 5.9L. I do not know the brand of the old tensioner. It has GAT45, GAT52, 376BI, and made in Korea on it. The gates tensioner is about 3/8” shorter from center of the bolt hole to the edge of the pulley. Subsequently my belt is now 3/8” short off being able to go back on. I tried until I started throwing tools. I have checked 100 time to make sure the belt is seated properly. Does anyone have any idea what might be wrong befor I send the part back. I have read reviews of a lot of people who said it fit there third gen.
 

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That is the proper part # for the truck. That's what I put on mine.
There are 2 positions that the tensioner can be installed in, are you sure it is the same place it was before?
You stated that the belt was seated properly, by that you also meant routed properly?
Are you rotating the tensioner arm all the way back?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So I routed it over the alt., under water pump, over idler pulley, under power steering, over fan, under harmonic balancer, over tensioner, then under ac compressor. Yes I made sure that the tensioner is all the way back.
 

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Belt routing should look like diagram below. If using a new belt, check length against the old belt. Check idler. Someone may have replaced it at some point with the wrong part. Otherwise, try a different tensioner from another source.
 

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Pic...
 

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PN shows to be correct. You need to check and make sure the belt is on correct route and sits in all the grooves. Then rotate tensioner from a higher hole with your ratchet/breaker bar and or get a bigger bite and rotate it further. It will fit.
Actually slipping it over the smooth side of the water pump pulley is easiest. No grooves and shoulder to get past.
 

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PS put it on the tensioner first and slip it under that idler #8 above it last. Easier to slip on the smooth side there.
 

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Definitely easiest to get the belt routed all the way except the alternator, then crank the tensioner and slip the belt on the alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Does anyone have the measurement from the bolt hole to the outer edge of the pulley. Like I said mine is 3/8” bigger than what came off it I just don’t know if what came off is factory or not
 

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Did you try what was offered above?
Be sure the belt is correctly routed and sits in all the grooves. Then rotate tensioner with your ratchet/breaker bar by getting a bigger bite and rotating it further.
I think this is the fix, try harder, it is a tight fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes I have tried all above. The tensioner is extended as far as it will go. I know it’s a tight fit I have installed the belt on this truck plenty. The path is right the groves are right the belt length is right. I am definitely turning the tensioner all the way. The tensioner I pulled off the truck has a OD of just barley under 3” (safe bet to say it’s the 2.95” as stated above) the new tensioner has a pulley OD of 2 7/8”. I think it has to be the wrong part all measurement are off. From center of the bolt hole to the closest edge of the pulley is 1/4 inch closer than the one I pulled off of it. Which in my mind should cause the belt to tighten by that amount.
 

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Return it.
Get a Napa lifetime part.
 

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Does anyone have the measurement from the bolt hole to the outer edge of the pulley. Like I said mine is 3/8” bigger than what came off it I just don’t know if what came off is factory or not
i should be able to measure mine thats on the truck when i get home, efans installed so extra room...
 

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I used Dayco No Slack tensioner AFAIK, DAYCO 89362 is OEM supplier.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=960361&cc=1424641&jsn=2404&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm/GG3C/l2QOXSJubi7Wbtv3UuYQU5Ufc54ERFX3PIv1NyfouOoxlvY3xdotAgkME+qzCthdAgqYlx/NmUAZEY4+LBNBhls9jWsFSVvKxDKu1ZQ3j1Oqt8EEr9urF/Jqor6Jbgm+KAN756wjmOrdFJ7sZ7d86FiqUOiK+inWUNKF/Nypgn3XzrxaOlUzibPFaSTtp/rH4n57pbRTCid/gKwyDx7gBzX+t5Vv2pGeEEytKO6qn+onjsy7e/WTSd6Wv4FaJSMhWD9WbbWaVaxhHPThrI00vW9Nse5bP3SBDI3721bin/bN4cFYmJZVSGKEiXPuPZbMeyGkSK8lwGBasGgaxUSD//ip2Ut5OO8NvWVJuXeHQDx9LgmundArStX253sgYB01W4=

Like mentioned get every thing on leave alternator or water pump for last.
When doing by myself in driveway, I actually took long breaker bar from underneath, place in cup of floor jack jacked up to get every inch of slack out of tensioner, easy peazy, belt slipped right on.
 

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Putting belt back on by yourself

I've used a breaker bar and a ratchet strap (actually an NRS tie-down strap) to hold the tensioner back long enough for me to go top side and flip the belt over the idler. Just don't want to have any body parts in the way if the strap slips!
 
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Just wrench it as fare as you can with a medium length rathcet or breaker bar and get a s much slack as you can and slip over water pump. Shorter handle gives you more release distance when rotating against fan or whatever.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I took the original tensioner on the truck and the new tensioner with the belt (from dodge house) to the local Napa. Napa’s tensioner was also the gates tensioner. Had them pull the belt for the 05 and it was 1/2 inch longer than the one I received from the dodge house. So I’m guessing maybe my vin was linked to a different tensioner... hell idk but with the tensioner and belt both from Napa it went on just like normal. I will call dodge house tomorrow and see if the tensioner is different for my vin.
 
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