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Discussion Starter #1
I am sending my head out to a machine shop and I'm looking for some advice and recommendations on what I should have done to it.

I'm in the process of upgrading the power and dressing up the engine
(Powder coat and paint)

I want to make sure the head is in top shape and ready for what ever I throw at it if I choose to upgrade more power in the future.

My truck is a 2000 auto with 215k. These are the parts I have purchased for the upgrades..

Quadzilla adrenaline v2
Dap7x0.013 275hp injectors
Carl's compound kit Sxe 62/68/12 over s475
Dap extreme duty pushrods
Dap 110# springs
Arp 425 studs
Dps 3 piece exhaust manifold
Fass 150g lift pump

I've tried to research what I should have done but not finding any good info. Please give me your feedback as I have the head ready to drop off at the shop and need to know what to have done. Thank you for reading this and your time!


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Standard job... disassembly, cleaning, check for cracks/if none are found proceed, mill the head dead flat, check valves & replace any junk ones, bronze guide liners on worn out guides, 3 angle valve job on the seats, install valve seals then assemble. Install the head with an engine hoist so's not to mess up the machine work or the expensive head gasket.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
So I brought the head to a shop around me (Leroy NY). I will be having the head cleaned and checked, decked, new valves, seals and guides.

I asked about the 3 angle cut valves and the guy that owns the shop said that was the old way of doing it. He said that they cut it in several angles that provides better seal than 3 angle..

He quoted me about 700$ for all above.

I wanted to get the head port and polished but he told me they dont have the codes and software, ect. To do it. He said they would have to send it out of state for that. He quoted me about 1300$ for shipping and port and polish.

Do these prices seem fair? What have you paid?

Does porting and polishing really make that much more of a difference to justify the cost?

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1/ Make sure the shop has a full length deck plate.

2/ Don't go hog wild on the "port & polish". Whether $1300 is worth it to you depends on the truck's intended usage.
 

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Brezenski Racing ( https://www.castheads.com/cylinder-heads/cylinder-head-resources/cylinder-heads-faq/) had a program to CNC port a 24 valve head safely....lots of trial & error to keep from breaking through into the water jacket.
I haven't had my head apart, just had it milled dead flat then installed a new head gasket after the old one failed.
I did work in a local race engine shop and spent many hours welding, porting then flow testing heads, mostly big block Chevy. Did a bunch of small block Ford and spent 2 months on some 460 Ford pulling heads....about 85lbs. each and were difficult to get up on the flow bench.
All but the 460 Ford pieces went on NHRA Super Stock engines.

Our turned up Cummins engines get real hot (mine sees 1500F ex. temps. before I get off the throttle) with all the fuel and boost we run. The valve seats have to be at least .030" wide to cool the valves, much more critical than gasser pieces.

That $700 price tag sounds fair to me, especially with new valves.
Unless the truck is a full competition truck, I wouldn't bother with doing any port work.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
So I just got a call from the shop about my head. They cleaned it a magna fluxed it and said they found cracks. They said that they didnt pressure test it but if it's not leaking it's a matter of time before they do. Plus with me doubling the hp not good. I really didnt expect this, being the truck always ran great....

I plan on calling tomorrow and asking where the cracks are and asking for pictures...

I dont know what my options are being I have exceeded my budget 2k ago and still need other things... I'm ****ed...

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The cracks are likely at the exhaust seat area. Installing new hardened seats is good then they can proceed with a good valve job w/.030" wide seats.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The cracks are likely at the exhaust seat area. Installing new hardened seats is good then they can proceed with a good valve job w/.030" wide seats.
Before I found out about the cracks, I planned on having them resurface, new valves, seals and guides, 110# springs.

Along with the power mods listed in previous post..

So if it's just cracks in the exhaust seats area, I will be ok and dont need to find a new head?? That would be good news considering.

Last thing I want to do is proceed with this head and have it bite me in the *** and cost me more stress and $$$$

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listen to your machinist. sometimes you are better off in the long run finding a used head from a recycle yard, and rebuilding that instead of trying to repair your current head. depends on how bad it really is with the cracks. the last thing you want is rebuilding the head then later find out there was one little crack into the water jacket.

as far as port and polish that's more for high rev engines. at low rpms it's more about size of the ports than the smoothness.

your best investments are new valves/springs/valve seats/valve retainers -- those mean longevity
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Picked up my head today, the cracks are between the highlighted marks...

Picture of head and each set..






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What does the machinist say? Are any too deep that installing new seats wouldn't fix?
What about the price of new seats installed vs a used '01.5 HO and later that has pressed-in seats factory installed?

Here's a cast iron BBC NHRA Super Stock head that developed a crack in an otherwise record holding SS/E 396-375. The crack was drilled, tapped and pinned.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What does the machinist say? Are any too deep that installing new seats wouldn't fix?

What about the price of new seats installed vs a used '01.5 HO and later that has pressed-in seats factory installed?



Here's a cast iron BBC NHRA Super Stock head that developed a crack in an otherwise record holding SS/E 396-375. The crack was drilled, tapped and pinned.
The machinist insist the head is trash and didnt want to do anything else to it after magna fluxing it. I tried to talk to him about the depth of the cracks and possible solutions to fix and he just shot everything down. He had no recommendations on a solution just wanted the head out of his shop and 200$ for cleaning and magna flux then sent me on my way. The impression I got from him is he likes to work with perfection or nothing at all.

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He likely doesn't like risky work and comebacks. Comeback work doesn't pay.
If there are any race shops nearby, you might show your head to them, otherwise, a replacement head is necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm going to try and find a replacement head.

Do you guys have suggestions on what I should get?

I want something better than stock replacement but I cant spend like 10k on a head. I dont want anything chinese either.

You guys have an idea with what I plan on doing for power mods as of now but may be doing more in the future*

Also I would like to take the truck to the strip every now and then along with fun* driving here and there. The truck is my summer daily and I cruise with it most the time but it will get its share of hard pulls and fun.




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if you call around you can find one at a recycle yard for probably $75. those places usually guarantee the part if you get it dipped / magnafluxed and it's bad they will get you another
 

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Discussion Starter #16
if you call around you can find one at a recycle yard for probably $75. those places usually guarantee the part if you get it dipped / magnafluxed and it's bad they will get you another
I'm not Trying to waste 200$ on having a used head cleaned and magna flux just to find out its garbage. I'm looking for recommendations on a new head. What would you guys do if you were in my situation ? I need some help figuring out what I should do

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I'd check the local shops.
What area of the planet are you near to?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'd check the local shops.

What area of the planet are you near to?
Rochester NY

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John the Diesel Man in Cortland has a good reputation.
 
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